Introduction to a MAJOR Cluster-Ring project => 18 (photos & diagrams)

 When I was travelling, many of my students were asking me questions about Cluster-Ring settings.

 In this tutorial essay, I will delve into this topic and display the setting tools & burs to use.

THIS SINGULAR PROJECT IS NOT EASY! There will be many essays on this topic for you. There could be many errors. Be careful.

 This essay will be on how to 'set and secure' the stones.

 When you are using gemstones of the same size, the most important aspect of this is to have them all of the same colour.

 The most important tool in securing the stones is to use a FLAT Graver. I personally use a #40 (wide) blade.

 The first thing I will do is to use a tapered awl (red handle) and open the claws further apart. This will allow me to increase the space for the bur to do the metal cutting.

 In this setting project, it is incumbent upon me to keep the blade thin. The reason is to get the flat graver into very delicate areas.

Here are some important measurements for your records.

The "156C" (Under-Cutting) bur should cut seats for the stone at a 90-degree angle. 

 If I used a 70-degree bur, it would not give me the same shape as the stone. All gemstones are shaped at a 90-degree angle, either genuine or simulated. So why use them?

 It is not necessary to trim the claws with any file; the best option is to use a "77B" Cup Bur.

Here is an assortment of various 'Cup Burs' that I use constantly.

 The 'centre stone claws' are the first to be set for this pendant. The 'middle row' is joined to the large centre stone claws. Then the 'outside claws' are equally joined to the 'middle row'. DON'T AVOID THIS SEQUENCE, EVER.

 Never think of filing these small claws. The best option is to use the #77B - Cup Bur, but hold it on a slight angle as the steel bur won't damage the delicate facets.

 The most important thing to do FIRST is to use a round bur to clean each of the setting holes.

 After your metal casting, there could be little pieces of metal remaining in the holes. GET RID OF THEM, NOW!

This is your finished cluster setting, NICE? You will notice that the claws are 'well-rounded' before the delicate gemstones were set.

  Here are the centre claws after the '156C' bur was used to prepare the seats. You will also notice that the Pavilion Facets of the stone will rest against the claw.

  You can select larger stones for the middle row, if you need to. Then, for the bottom (outside row), the smallest stones can be used. For this, you will have an overall tapering effect.

                      Drawings to guide you further...(I hope!)

BASIC steps in setting a "Cluster Ring" => 10 photos

 This ring was found in my collection of silver samples, and now it's going to be used. YES! I did all of the stone-setting and photo-texting. I didn't copy these photos from anyone else's valuables.

                                        ================

 The first thing that MUST be done is to clean out ALL OF THE SETTING HOLES. There mustn't be any residual pieces of metal remaining.

 The 'tapered' new hole will blend in with the Pavilion of the stone. A round bur just won't do it!

  Keep this bristle brush near your work area, as there must NEVER be any metal dust getting stuck to your stone when being set.

 I use a tapered steel rod to open up every claw setting. These stones are exactly 0.03 mm in diameter, and the hole should be slightly larger to accommodate the cutting bur.

  I like using these 'bent jaws' of these pliers because my hand can hold them in a horizontal position. When I close the jaws, both of the claws will close together.

  Always straighten the claws at every opportunity.

I use a 90-degree angle '156C' bur create a seat for every claw.

 Every claw must have a bearing (seat) to accommodate where the Girdle Facet will be located.

   ANOTHER 'TIGHTENING' METHOD!

 

  This method works great, but be careful in handling the claws.

One plier jaw should be against the claw, and the other should be placed into the hole on the opposite side.

 This allows that one claw to be 'active' while the other claw is giving steady support.

Mediocre diamond setting => 1 photo

 This is a great way of losing customers with this style of diamond setting! Let me explain why this setting is not acceptable.

                              ==========================

#1. The corners of the row of diamonds were not created with square corners, only 'rounded' sections.

#2. The beads were not of equal size throughout the gem setting areas.

#4. The metal in between the beads looks rough and should have been cut deeper.

#5. The diamonds are not of equal size in the corners.

#6. There are lines of unnecessary metal beside all of the diamonds.

#7.  The beads were not burnished anywhere to be seen.

#8. Why was there a small stone set beside a large stone?

#9. At the start of the curve of cutting, there was insufficient skill involved in the metal cutting.

#10. The stones were set first, thus leaving the lines of metal throughout the photo. The "pre-cutting" process would have resulted in a cleaner finish.

#11. There was no care in carving the metal around the diamonds.

=============================

  I would have given the stone setter a "Fail" if I were the instructor. Hoping that you concur with my observations.

Setting Engagement Stones (be careful) => 3 photos

  This instructional essay was 'posted in this blog' many months ago, and here it is again.

  These three diagrams are the basic instructions that you need to follow. I also supplied some of my own text to make this essay more 'personal' and easy to understand.

 I learned these very same techniques while I was learning how to set engagement rings, circa 1960's.

"Gerry's Instructions!"                     

Rule #1. Keep the tip of the claw at or below the Table Facet of the gemstone.

Rule #2. The metal under the seat of the claw MUST be flush with the Pavilion of the stone.

Rule #3. There must NEVER be any sharp edges around the claw after the stone has been set. NEVER!!!

Rule #4. The claw must conform to the angles of the stone. This means that there must NEVER be any spaces between the stone and the claw.

Rule #5. There must be enough thickness of the metal to hold and be able to withstand many years of constant use.

Rule # 6. The bur must be held at the same angle so that it will eventually cut into the metal exactly where the stone will sit. 

Rule #7. When the claw has closed against the stone, there will never be any spaces =>ANYWHERE.

Rule #8.  The teeth of the rotating bur must follow the same angles as the stone. (I've repeated this in Rule #6) This diagram will be a guide for you.

        

 In closing, I sincerely hope that this instructional essay will answer some of your questions about setting Engagement rings.

Engagement rings (trimming) #2, of 2 pages => 10 photos

        This essay displays 'multiple claw' rings.

 These eight claws seem to vanish among the Facets of the stone. I chose this ring top for it's esthetic appearance. Good choice of design.

 For durability, these 6 claws are best to use. The claws help to protect the stone during the many years of wear.

These two end-claws protect the points of this Marquise stone.

                                      

I like the highly polished disk where the Pavilion is located. This enhances the brilliance of the stone. 

                                      

 I'm not in favour of these five 'spear-shaped' claws as these will, over time, catch the wearer's clothing. When this happens, the stone will eventually get loose.

 I personally like this design as it allows the wearer to view the Culet Facet.

 These six claws blend into the facets of the stone and still giving it much support.

 

Multi-Claw trimming & more - (#1, of 2 pages) => 8 photos

These claw settings demonstrate the different techniques in trimming claw tips. The most important aspect of trimming is to secure the diamond. 

 These claws on the Princess-Cut stone are designed to prevent breakage at the 4 delicate corners. That is why these claw tips are slightly thicker than those usually seen in other settings.

 

 This photo displays a 1.5 Carat diamond. The designer chose security & 'double-claws' just for the expensive gem.

 When the designer chose 'double claws' for this stone, it was made to protect the fragile eight multiple corners.

 You can see that each of the eight claws covers the sharp points of the Emerald-Cut gem.

                                           

1) I selected this photo for the sole purpose of showing that 6 pointed claws are actually covering much of the gemstone. I would have chosen a more delicate claw setting.

2) The yellow gold will reflect much of the 'yellow' into the diamond. When the diamond is appraised, the appraiser will have difficulty with the stone's colour coding.

3) The claws are basically displaying large, pointed tips. These will catch the wearer's clothing over time.

These six claws are the better choice than those shown above.

 My own preference would be to use white metal instead of yellow claws.