Setting "Square, Pear, Triangular & Marquise" gem-stones!

       What do all of these stones have in common? One answer, "THEY ALL HAVE POINTED CORNERS!"      

 I'm using photographs from my inventory of 'past essays' in showing how a square stone is prepared for the setting. In this square, stone-setting, it's the very same technique as for the other various "Vee" shaped claws.

 I will explain in this essay, just how similar this process is with "Triangular" shaped stones. The only difference is with three-claws, I'm dealing now with four claws in this setting!

 You can see that these 'vee-shaped' claws still need a few light touches with your Triangular file with a #2 grit.

 This setting now has a very nice clean finish! The claws are not appearing to be too thick or 'heavy'. I also attempt to Bright-Cut the two sides inside of the "VEE".

  Let's now get started in this interesting multi-use 'VEE'-shaped claw configuration!

 The very first thing you must do is to literally drill out the corners of the claws with a round bur that is larger than the Girdle of the stone.

 The point of the stone must not touch any metal, anywhere, at any time!!!

  In this style of setting, you can see where the point is resting. It is sitting in the centre of the "Lucida" style of setting, if it isn't, then fix it NOW! But be careful that the claws are not damaged!

                         

 Here are the corners of the stones that we will be working with. You can see just how thick the Girdle of the stone is. 

 Remember that the round bur that you just selected, must be wider than the widest Girdle facet anywhere on the stone. Do you agree with me?

 Please check everywhere on the stone that you need to set! There must not be any fractures or breakage on the Girdle or even the corners, or you will be blamed for the breakage!

 This happened to me, and I totally refused to even 'touch the ring or the stone' until the client was made aware of this major problem.

 No one saw the 'hidden problem', the stone was 'chipped' underneath the Pavillion that was resting against the claw of the old mount. If I just 'lightly touched' the claw to remove it, I would be then held financially responsible! WHEW!

 If your 'gut feeling' says stop! Then do so, examine the stone carefully with your 10x power loup or your 40x power Gem-Scope!

 This particular layout is so similar to a Triangular, Marquise, Pear, Princess-shaped stone setting!

 For your information, this 'claw-finish' is just mediocre at best.:>( There is no faceting on the outside edges of the claws! Every claw looks misshapen!

 This ring top now looks 'acceptable'!

 For every 'vee' claw, the corners must be made clean and ready for the next important step in setting!

 Use your bud-shaped bur as you did on the previous Princess setting. This process is still the same for all four 'Fancy-Cut' stones.

 You must now 'chamfer' the inner gallery, just remove any sharp corners. As your stone might be touching this metal.

  Just remove this metal from one 'VEE' claw setting to the other.

                       

 You might say that this essay is very similar to "Princess, stone setting", you are right! But the similarity continues further, all of the 'pointed-corner stones' do have the same features and must be considered as 'one of the same'. 

 Here are some roughly-drawn diagrams that I made for the Princess stone. These techniques are transferrable to ANY POINTED STONE!

 Please excuse my spelling mistake for "Princes(s)" ring.

  I hope that you can see the many detailed cuts by your burs, as shown in the above diagrams!

 The claws have now being brought together, but much more work needs to be done on them!

 The 'left-top-claw' hasn't yet been moved. Remember that the space in between all of the claws must be uniform in distance. You need a "professional attitude" in setting these delicate stones!

                       

  We don't need or want an "Mt. Everest" amount of metal holding any stone, do we? YUK!

 You can now see how much nicer the outside of the claws are now starting to look. For additional instructions, kindly go to the "Princess Setting" essay => dated 03/08/2018

 Here is the final great looking finished setting. You can see that I 'attempted' to Bright-Cut inside
the little amount of allotted space given to me.:>( I used a Flat graver #40.

 

 As a few points to remember, all burs be must sharp and able to carve seats for your stone! I usually expand the claws of the setting, why is this? I need full access, at all times, to get my burs into the little areas to do the carving of the seats.

 Remember, that we're dealing with only a few millimetres of space.  Even I, (sometimes) have difficulty at this stage of preparation.

 If you wish to do a 'pre-polish' of the inner Gallery, do it NOW! This will give more of a shine to the metal that you were working on!

 As a follow-up, the ring is now ready to accept the stone shape of your choice! 

Again, the "VEE" shaped claws can be used with any of the 'originally' mentioned shapes. 

 In this photograph, you can see how far apart the four claws are. I will do this on the Triangular as well as the Princess stone, I need and want full access for my burs to get to the claws.

  Just remember to keep the claws on any of the four, 'pointed' stone claws looking thin to the viewer. This must not or ever jeopardize its security.