Using "156C" and "HSS" burs - 12 photos

 Burs are our 'tools of the trade', what would we do without them? We work with them and they work with 'us'. In this essay, we will honour them midst all of their complex designs

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 These amazing "HSS" High Speed Steel burs are ALL cut...one at a time, by hand! That is by an operator at his designing & cutting wheel.

  I used my "156C" bur or 'Under-Cutting' bur on the Gypsy setting ring. The letter "C" means that it is made of (softer) Carbide steel. These teeth are made much closer together than the HSS cutting bur.

I used ONLY  the thinner setting-bur 156C to create a thinner bearing for the thinner Girdle. This is just for creating a delicate resting place for the girdle of the stone.

The HSS bur will cut a very wide bearing and eventually not giving me any luxury of quality setting.

 In this photo, I used two bur styles & shapes, why? This ring warranted two different styles of burs. I never relied upon one style of bur, together my gem-setting results was made easier for me.

When these burs have worn down, it's too expensive to repair any of these burs. Just discard them and buy a newer bur. The HSS bur can be repaired by recutting the teeth.

 In preparing to set these stones, I use a "156C" bur. These teeth have to ability to create only a bearing needed to set any stone as being shown here. For this 'ring project', we are only concerned in making a little groove for the Girdle of the stone.

 The HSS bur will give you a wider cutting bearing, I'd stay away from these burs. We need only a thin & delicate groove for this stone.

 Many times I found in my past projects, I had to modify and alter the bearing to allow for a thicker girdle. I used a slightly larger round bur to make these subtle modifications and adjustments. 

 These 156C burs are relatively cheap to buy from your tool supplier.

 These 'specially cut' HSS burs are a different matter, for a box of these burs as shown in this photo could reach well into $150.00 or more. 

 Compare the cutting teeth array on either of these two styles of burs. They might look the same, but their uses are are so different.

 Here is just one HSS bur, examine the number of teeth. Then on the above photo closely compare the "156C" tooth structure. The purposes are all so vastly different.

 As an active Diamond Setter, I have amassed literally many hundreds of burs.

 

 

 You just have no idea when particular bur is required. Thus having almost 750 burs is quite normal in this highly specialized craft.

 There are two shapes of these 156C burs, each one is still very in stone setting.

 The thinner bur in the center of this photo is quite good for preparing a seat for the stone. While the bur on the near left is used primarily for the Pavilion of the stone.

 The larger bur is cut at 90degree angle, while the thinner bur is cut at 70degree angle.

 When you need a sharp edged bur, buy a packet of 6, instead one at a time. When the teeth get worn, "Good-Bye" and discard it. 

 You can see where the soft Carbide steel is on a short life-span and the edges of the teeth are now showing signs of wear.

 

 I'm hoping that this 'introduction to burs' has been a good help to you. (Gerry Lewy)
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My daughters' jewellery 'gift from her Dad' - 65 photos.

 Last month my dear daughter "Stephanie" saw the beginnings of this pendant. She said to me "Dad, can you make one just like it for me?"

As a Diamond Setter, I put my tools together and created this pendant just for her.  I took many photo's of it from a wax-injection to it's completion.

 I had to combine two blog-essays together as I wanted to be sure that no pictures were to be missed. I named this pendant a 'gift from her Dad'.

How many Dad's can make a similar gift to their daughter? 

 (If I might have duplicated a few photos while combining two essays, my apologies).

I arranged some 'finished pendants' with mirrors, just to get a better perspective on how this item is to look.

 Mirrors can fool the 'eyes & mind' in to this collection of loose stones.

 As I only had 4 silver pendants to work with, here are my collection of finished pendants.

 How do I secure the stones when there are only one claw made available? I will use my Flat graver of #40 width to scrape a sliver of metal over the rear of the stone.

This pendant looks just fine, BUT there is a problem, there is one claw missing.

 What implement would I use to push over each claw? I abhor using any steel metal 'hand pushing' tool on these delicate claws.

 If I used a 'steel pushing' tool, it would be with a serrated edge BUT the front edge will leave me with many cleaning problems.

 This will be to your advantage to use a Brass pushing tool in moving claws over each stone.

 In using a TAPERED pumice wheel of #240 grit, examine each claw that there are no deep indentations anywhere.

It is essential that every casting mark in the metal be removed prior to any further stone setting.

 What size of 'cup bur' would be used? The size of the bur should be larger in covering each claw. If the size of the "77B" bur is the same, the result would be a 'little cup', or edge on every claw rim.

 Its better to 'cup bur' (make round) the center stone, post-setting. If not, the bur might just hit the remaining claws or grind against the stones.

 With a FLAT-faced pumice wheel of #240 grit, clean everywhere possible.

 Wherever that there are design indentations use your Tapered pumice wheel and clean before Tripoli and Rouge polishing. NEVER DO THIS WHEN THE STONES ARE SET.

 The Pumice cleaning should also be used  along the lower section of the claw. The whole pendant MUST BE IN PRISTINE CONDITION before any stone-setting starts.

 This (soft metal) BRASS pusher is the only 'hand-pusher' that is needed. Don't use a steel pusher!

 

  This is brass 'recess' will cover the 'tips of the claws'.

  Inside the area where the stone will sit must be made wider to accommodate the Pavilion of the stone.

 There are basically two methods in holding this pendant. The easiest method is to use an adjustable 'clamping device'. BUT, the fingers usually hit the pin-vise.

  My best method is putting the pendant on a 'shellac-stick', as seen here. 

  Now compare the working-diameter between this wooden stick to the pin-vise.

   With an Awl, GENTLY spread the claw(s) further apart.

 There should be no residue pieces of casted metal that will hinder the placement of any stone. I'd use a 10x power Loupe to examine the area of the setting. 

 With your Flat graver, cut a sliver of metal down along the side of the center claw to the Girdle of the stone. This will 'lock the stone in place'.

  Always be very gentle on these claws, one slip and 'it's a trip to the repair shop'.

   Every indentation on this multi-claw pendant needs to be in pristine condition.

 After aggressive touching of your setting tools, get rid of any marks.

 

 

    All of the center-claws need to be rounded with your "77B" cup-bur.

 The cup-bur should not be the same size of the tip of the claw. It should be larger, as the teeth of the rotating bur need to get the claw-tip smooth to the touch.

  Before you progress further along your gem-stone setting, make sure that ALL OF THE MARKS ON THE CLAWS HAVE BEEN REMOVED & CLEANED.

 In this photo you can see that the BRASS pusher is now holding each and every stone tightly and firmly in place.

 If you push with your metal tool, the stone could get crooked. The very first thing that you do is to lock in the 'back claws' with your Flat graver. THEN WORK WITH THE SINGLE CLAW IN THE FRONT.

 

 

 There are extra pieces of metal inside of many stone spaces. Get rid of them as soon as you can. These could have been easily removed in the wax form.

  

  If you see that one or even two claws are missing, 'STOP' what you are doing and do the repair as soon as possible. 

 Keep the heat of your torch to a low flame as you don't want to melt any of the metal in the process.

 This photo shows where those 'slivers of metal' should be situated. The sliver of metal MUST BE ON THE STONE!!! (not against the stone). This sliver of metal is created with the means of using a Flat graver cutting INTO the metal of the claw.

 If you need to spread apart any of the claws, just GENTLY move the single claw away from the pendant. Never spread the claws sideways, lest you might damage any stone on the right or left side of the hole.

 If you are unsure of using an 'awl', you might gently use a pair of pliers and move any claw that you need to. This photo shows how much easier it is to use than the 'Awl'.

 I always set the center stone first. In this photo, you can see how to spread apart those 6 claws without any effort. In using the 'Awl' there won't be any damage to any of the soft metal claws.

 When you are using this 'AWL' always make sure that the tool-tip is free from any marks that might transferred to the inside of the claw-setting.

            

              17 PHOTOS FROM MY (PREVIOUS) BLOG-ESSAY!

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Upon examining the pendant, always keep the multiple claws in an upright position. 

 Clear out any residue from the casting, there isn't any other time in doing this cleaning. If there are multiple claws missing or too short, discard this casting and start again!!!

 Already you can see one or two claws bent out of shape. This must be rectified prior to any casting, but be so very careful as these wax-claws might easily break off.

   It's far easier to repair a wax form, than attempting to do this in metal.

 With a "Twist-Drill" remove as much of the shellac & metal before setting any gemstones.

 

 Be careful in selecting your stones, they MUST BE UNIFORM IN SIZE & COLOUR.

 Have those Pavilion 'holes' well cared for in this pendant. If there are any problems being seen at this juncture don't proceed further. Be careful and be critical of what you are attempting.

 I suggest that your stones have a thin Girdle, this will make your setting process so much easier with your new setting skill.

  This stone has a thick Girdle "STOP" and find a thinner girdle-stone to set. A thick stone is even difficult for this setter, please examine your stones prior to any setting,

 PLEASE read this again, 'a thinner stone works better for you'.

 If you are using a pair of pliers, have one jaw inside the hole and the other against the base of the claw...then squeeze the jaws together.

 

 This is the position of your "156C-Carbide" undercutting bur as it creates a 'bearing-cut' for the stone. Have your bur gently rotate against the claw(s).

  

 Be very careful where your steel jaws are 'resting'.

 

  These are the "High Speed Steel" burs that is used for the 6-claw center setting.

  Don't leave this claw-cutting residue on the side of the claw. I'd use a Triangular file #4 cut to clean the surface, then using the Pumice Wheel of #240 grit. DO ALL OF THIS PRIOR TO ANY STONE SETTING.

Here are the center claws before any cleaning has being done. You can see that claws at 6:00 and 3:30 o'clock are not equally spaced. Repair them NOW.

 Here is a white stone with a very thick girdle, please change it with a 'thinner' stone girdle. By doing this easy change, your setting will be finished faster and less problems.