The Difficulty Scale on this setting project is about 8.5 out of 10. This high number is solely due to the "Bright-Cutting" processes starting so very soon.
Long before you start any sort of burring with your "High-Speed-Steel" burs, place your selected stones on the surface of the openings. If you don't see any metal being shown, then your stones are too large. If you are still wanting to set them, disaster is looming & your ring could be ruined in the process.
In this photograph are the correct sizes of stones, why? The metal is of sufficient thickness to 'Bezel-Set' and has enough remaining metal to still "Bright-Cut" inside the rim afterwards.
I need to clean out the deepest section of the opening and to not have any metal touching any part of the Pavillion or Culet. You can use any large Bud-shaped bur you might have
e.g. #025 <=> #030.
This is just another view showing how DEEP you need to go in your initial burring.
In this ring, the three bezels are semi-joined together, let's clean out any 'remnants' from the casting process.
These 'extra' little pieces of metal must be removed NOW! If you feel that there is a need to cloth-wheel polish these spots, again,
let's do this NOW!
I used another smaller Bud-shaped bur (the width of the opening in between the two Bezels) just to smooth the metal. You could even Rouge this area after your 'burring' if you wish.
Select your High-Speed bur that is 75% of the size of your stone, to start the first bearing-cuts!
How deep should you go into the hole is a very important question, why? You need ample metal to hammer over the Girdle of the stone.
How do you find a solution?
The widest section of the bur-teeth is where the Girdle will be,
simple as that!
In conclusion,
GET THAT BUR WELL INTO THE BEZEL OPENING!
Tilt the H.S.S. bur at a slight angle of 20-degrees, this will give the bur access to only one section of the opening! Don't use a High-Speed Steel bur the same size as the stone.
Bur the metal in three (or four areas) not all at once.
Thus keeping each bearing-cut at the same DEPTH all around the hole.
If your bearing-cuts are just slightly 'higher or lower' than the other sections, so will your stone, it will 'sit crooked', YUK!
I prefer to let the HSS bur make 'three or four' contacts with the metal. Don't just lightly touch the metal, but let that bur "get into" the walls and make a definite seat for the stone.
As we are dealing with three thick Girdle stones, use a round bur and make sure that the bearings are same (or larger) widths as the stones.
In this photograph, you can see how these three bezels are now ready to accept the stones.
What size of round bur do you need? I don't use any formula for this technique, but eye-ball each of the stones with a round bur that is slightly LARGER than the Girdle. Why larger?
It is imperative that THE STONE MUST NOT SIT TIGHT in the bearing. You should allow some extra space for these wide Girdles.
When you're starting to hammer the metal, the tight stone might just get squeezed and "Whoops!" broken stone!
Cubic Zirconia stones or even Genuine-stones have some degree of being not uniform around the Girdle of the stone. Make allowances and use a round bur for the 'widest' thickness of the Girdle!!
I might even suggest a larger bur if you wish (as shown).
If you see that whole bezel frame needs to made more open, don't drill it open, just use a metal tapered rod (as shown) and ream it more open.
I use this method many times and it sure helps to get the stones in and saves the ring!!
BTW, this Awl was "Made in the USA"!..:>)
HOORAY! The three stones are now in their own "little new homes!" Now the next step is using the 'Reciprocating Hammer'.
In this picture, you can see that I've slightly reduced the outside frame as I don't want too much metal to be hammered down.
The 'clean-up' further on might extensive, plus this could also be a very time-consuming process.
In this picture,
you will see that THE ANVIL IS NEVER HELD PERPENDICULAR, but is being held at a 'slight angle away' from the stone!
Why is this so darned important? Easy answer!
Suppose that the anvil is getting close to the stone, one simple 'hit' of the anvil tends to fracture some of the Facets.
I keep the anvil on an angle & away from any stone as much as possible.
Another reason is; I need a 'thick' layer of metal as this will allow me to "Bright-Cut".
I know that this is difficult to see, but the anvil just never, under any circumstances, will I let the anvil come close to the 'inside edge' of the metal.
Now you can see that all three stones are 'evenly' hammered and of course, secured.
So far so good? NO, there is a slight problem, let's investigate where it is, agree?
With a 10x power loupe 'we' can see that the metal, in between the two bezels, the metal has not as yet fully been 'pushed towards the stones'. A major problem is just starting. Whoops!
With your loupe, this is just what is happening.
GET ALL OF THE METAL DOWN ON YOUR STONE! But don't 'flatten' it, but hammer again at an angle. Keep a watchful eye on how this is progressing!
This exactly what 'we' need!
Oh, by the way, what are those 'little scratch marks' on the Table of the stone? When I buy CZ's from my stone-dealer, I always ask for 'the best quality stone',
In my estimation,
"Swarovski" stones are the best, why?
The Mohs "Scale of Hardness" is at 8.5 <=> 9.0. I don't need to have a poor quality stone in my demo's fail me, not nice to see!
These larger stones all have these Laser inscribed words on the "Table" of each stone!
"Swarovski Zirconia" is the lettering!
We are now starting to initiate the "Bright-Cutting" processes.
This is not that easy for the beginner, I suggest much practice is required prior to making any serious Onglette graver cutting!
You can now see a 'little sliver of metal' that is carefully being cut away.
Here is the sole reason why I need to have the metal nice and thick! If not thick, I won't be able to have a good cut!
If the inside corners were not pushed or hammered down a second time, I just couldn't get a clean circular cut, anywhere!
BTW, none of the three stones is touching each other. If they were, some of the Facets could be literally broken.
As I don't have or use a GRS, engraving block I have tried to cut in a circle. After some years of testing my skills, I have (almost) succeeded..:>) This is not the easiest part of Bezel-setting.
Many times, I will recut the three Bezels many times just to make all three look uniform in appearance. I am not at this time worried about the outside edges these will be attended to shortly.
You can see that there is a little extrusion of metal on all three bezels. When the "Reciprocating Hammer" is hitting the tip of the frame, it is displacing some of the metal to form a 'little ridge of metal' over the outside edge of the bezel.
This is quite a common occurrence, so don't get stressed upon seeing this!
The very next step is to file everywhere with your Triangular file with a grit of #4.
Use the 'fine corner' edge of your file and get in between the two Bezels.
Once you are doing this rotate the file in a circle and remove all of the course finish, on the tips of the Bezel walls.
Can you tell me which is the Grit #2 and #4?..:>) Do this marking on your own files, it makes for easy identification in your bench-pan while you are at work.
I constantly use my metal, ring-clamp that is like a mini-vise, it allows my working fingers to get close to my setting project.
I can then lock the jaws of the clamp...so very TIGHT!
Now you can see some improvement in our 'nearly finished' Bezel ring.
We are not finished YET!
LOOKING GOOD!..:>)
Here is a close-up of my "
Right-Sided, Onglette Graver #2". Actually, it is a graver that has been fashioned to cut "
ONLY ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BLADE!" (If you are left-handed, the left side of the blade will be then contoured to cut in the same fashion)
What happened here? As I am Bright-Cutting all around the hard CZ, the hard stone Facets will & can break off the very point of the Graver.
Don't get stressed over this graver getting worn down!
This is not your fault! Overtime (minutes) the constant hitting of the graver to the stone, this will happen!
The flat point is the culprit and it has now to be re-shapen.
The re-shaping process is to literally 'refine the leading point', using your light Emery paper #400. Rotate it as you are now gently 'following the curves' of your graver.
Some practice is needed here!
Once you are satisfied with your results, then use your Polishing paper #800 or even a #1,200 to make your graver super-smooth for your "Bright-Cutting"!
With the same Graver that was in for repair, you can continue on with your fantastic Bright-Cutting as you were doing before!
Just prior to any further cloth-wheel polishing, please use your "Tapered" Pumice wheels to get in between the corners of the Bezels.
I like to round off the outside walls of the Bezels until the three walls are all in uniform appearance.
When you are using your cloth-wheel for polishing do the following procedure first!
Please GO GENTLY and DON'T PUSH YOUR RING INTO THE (Tripoly & Rouge) WHEELS. If you do, you will destroy all of your hard work in making this ring a wonderful "Piece of Art"!!!
If you have any questions, kindly email me: "gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com"
