First of all, I'm writing about only using one size of blade, that is a #4/0 and no other width. There are many applications in gemstone setting that is using a saw blade.
I'm sure that this essay will be an 'eye-opener' to many of my international jewellery friends, wherever they live. The Level of Difficulty is about 7.5 out of 10.
How many times have you found yourself in this unsavorily predicament? When you read and learn this about 'repairing' technique, your problems are then hereby solved.
Although this photo shows a decent looking gemstone setting, there is a problem here. They will be seen once the stone has been inserted. I'm here to correct and show this major flaw.
This is the container of my saw-blades that I use continually. The thickness of each blade measures in at 0.20mm's. Although these are very thin, they have to get inside very delicate areas, as we shall discuss shortly.
The insides of any claw MUST REST AGAINST THE GEMSTONE. There mustn't be any sections of the claw not touching the stone.
But what happens if the claw is not sitting against the stone? Then this #4/0 saw-blade will be definitely used, but with the greatest of care.
My 'roughly drawn diagram' explains the next step. Once the sawing has travelled along the "Crown Facets" keep going until the blade reaches BEYOND the Girdle of the stone.
This is why a thin blade is used in this very delicate exercise. If the blade is much thicker such as #2/0 too much of the inside of claw will be removed, it can be a disaster for you.
From this diagram shown, here is the actual transition from my drawing to the gemstone. Don't go beyond the Girdle of the stone as the claw might be made weak for the continual wearing process.
Before any sawing is to be done, align the blade from the "Crown-Facets" as to get the correct angle. This total cutting will take only 3 sawing-cuts (maximum), if you take further cuttings, you could very easily saw through and ruin that claw.
DO NOT SAW BEYOND the half-way width of the claw. As being shown here, the blade is now even reaching that dangerous point.
This is where your "Opti-Visor" is specially needed to examine each saw-cut, never guess where the saw blade is cutting.
Being careful and observant will give you a good chance of succeeding in repairing any errors.....But what happens afterwards?
The stone will be loose, as it is now having a new seat. What I do is to use my 'fine-nosed pliers' and gently bring the claws together once more, but using extra care.
Don't 'hand-push' the claws together, as they will be moved out of being in a 'square layout'. (There are not short-cuts in this delicate exercise).
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Hoping as always, that my setting techniques work well for you. Now you know exactly why a saw-blade is required at certain times in 4-claw-setting. Gerry Lewy.
