In this essay, we will be dealing with multiple shapes of stones. The correct terminology is called "Fancy-Cuts".
First of all, how would you actually hold a Diamond or even a Semi-precious stone? Don't hold it in your fingers, why not? The answer is easy, grease or lubricants on your fingers might give a 'poor' quality & colour reading. If you see a spot near the "Girdle" it could be some dirt as well.
GET YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE STONE..!!!
I have two kinds of "Diamond Tweezers". The holder on the left has 4-prongs and on the right has only three, why the difference? I'd use the 4-prong for larger stones and the 3-prong for smaller ones.
For example, I will use a 4-prong for holding difficult shaped diamonds, such as Princess or Marquise.
Next question is how would you grab it without touching the stone?
Very easy to do, just place the stone "Table-Facet" down on a flat 'clean' surface and let the 'claws' just grip the stone. Making darn sure that the prongs have caught the stone.
Open the tweezer-claws and carefully let the spring-action close around the stone. Done!
When working with a Princess stone is a little exercise in finger dexterity. As this is now a delicate process of making sure all FOUR claws situated on the four 'sides', leaving the FOUR corners exposed.
Just make sure as in any stone you need to view that all of the wire-prongs are holding TIGHT! If not, you will find your stone run off the table. I've had this happen a few times, embarrassing to keep looking for that 1.00carat diamond..:>(
On an Emerald & Princess-cut stones, the method is still the same. Let the wires hold the four sides.
I prefer the 4-prong for any Triangular-shaped stones. A complete and detailed examination is required for these shapes with no chance of 'wires' covering any inclusions.
All stones should be viewed against a white background, why? It's best so that there is a white colour and YOU can get a true colour of the stone.
If you view any stone in front of your bench. Your bench will give the stone a 'false colour reading'. Even your fluorescent bench light can be also problematic, I use three 'daylight' bulbs.
In this viewing of the cubic zirconia, I use a white background just to examine this stone.
So let's get started now.
One of the interesting features of this 'large crystal' is that we won't be examining a little diamond but this will make our viewing much easier!
The observations listed can be used for any stone, no matter the shape.
1) Take a look at the 'Girdle' and observe the uneven width or thickness. Why was this as it now appears? The diamond-cutter wanted to keep the mass or weight of the stone heavier for a 'better $$ return on the investment'.
But there are more reasons; the cutter should have 'faceted' the 'girdle and have the stone give more reflective light throughout the stone. He didn't..bad move!
2) On the tip of the "Culet" (that is the correct name of the point) if you see that the Culet is broken give it back.
3) If you see a 'breakage' anywhere, return it to the 'dealer', immediately.
BTW, Don't go to a dealer without your own set of 'diamond tweezers' and your 10x loupe.
4) "Inclusions" are so very interesting, they can appear just anywhere. The location of them correspond with the quality of the stone; e.g. VVS 1-2, VS 1-2, SI 1-2, I 1-2. If the little inclusion is near the girdle, the chances of covering up the girdle inclusion with a claw and can still make this stone a 'good-buy'!
5) If there is a 'little, black spot', it is actually Carbon, which all diamonds are made of. But they, in turn, will give the stone a poorer colour grade in the appraisal. Another reason not to buy it..:>(
6) If there is a 'feather' as it's called sometimes, looks just like a "bird's feather". It is still very acceptable, because of the white colouring! But the downside is that it will diminish the overall quality of the stone; e.g. from a VS,2 to an SI 1-2...All of this is depending on its location!
This stone, even with the white 'feather' is still a very decent stone!
Just look at the myriad of 'carbon spots' being reflected off of the 'facets'. I only painted 6 of them, but can you count how many there now?
7) When you examine any 'pointed' stone, even if it's a genuine-stone, make darned sure that the points are not broken.
Here you can see a badly damaged Culet facet...this is not acceptable!
The 'pointed' stones are; Pear-shape, Princess (Square) shape, Marquise, Emerald-cut, Triangular-shaped.
The reason being is that these 'breaks' are now the 'weakest' part of the stone. The 'break' will continue to literally 'grow' while being set!
This even appeared on my high-quality CZ Princess-cut stone.
8) Are all of the "Facet-cuts" inline above the Girdle facet as well joining the Pavillion Facets below the Girdle? This one fact will show up on your appraisal as an "Excellent-Cut" or just a "Good-Cut"!
If the Girdle is very wide but not faceted, I wouldn't accept that diamond!
9) What is "Fluorescence"? This is a strange colouring and it strongly appears under 'Blue-Light', this will give an unnatural/artificial colouring. I always avoid this kind of stone!
10) What is "EX, EX, EX,"? or just (3-EXs)? "Excellent-cut, Excellent-colour, Excellent-quality".
11) What is a "P" grading? It has another name, it's commonly called "Promotional". There have numerous 'dark spots and feathers' everywhere, these 'spots' literally reflect off all of the facets as well. These are usually used in smaller stones in multi-stone cluster-tops, also in Engagement-solitaire rings where the price is more important than quality!
With these "11 little pieces of information" that I've learned from my many years of buying diamonds. I hope that these observations have been of some help to you.
(It's far better to be educated a little than to walk into a stone-dealers office not knowing anything.)
