How to "PREPARE" to GYPSY-SET a Square stone! (21 photos)

 On my "Difficulty Scale of 10", this exercise is off the scale at maybe a 15. 

 I once worked as a diamond setter for a special-order shop, and the owner came to me asking me for help. He thought I couldn't set a square stone in a plain wedding band. I said with confidence, "That's an easy project." He was aghast and surprised at my reply. 

 Here are the techniques involved: Please understand this is not for the 'novice jeweller' or a beginner setter. THIS 'PREPARATION' FOR SETTING IS SO VERY IMPORTANT.

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By using initially a bud-shaped bur, we are preparing to 'open' up an area to insert other burs. 

 After using the large size bud-burs to open a space for setting, I must now 'make & create' the four 'corners'.

 These '4 corners' will be the beginning of where the Princess-Cut stone will eventually lay. From the these '4 round bur holes', a bearing will join each of them together. Please keep the depth the same all around the opening.

 I want the depth of these corners as deep into the metal as possible. No metal must 'touch' any area of the stone once the stone is resting in the metal.

 I prefer to open the square metal opening at 90% of the size of the stone, but not fully. The remaining 10% will be used in holding the stone in place, (this will be explained further). I use a FLAT #40 width graver to remove any unwanted metal, all sides must be straight and nowhere should these walls be curved.

 These are the collection of burs that I must keep within my 'fingers reach'. I don't want to keep wasting my time looking for one or two often-used burs.

  A 'square opening' is slowly starting to take shape, agree? I would use a #004 round or bud bur to shape the corners.

  The Pavilion area of the stone is now being created and slowly being able to be set.

  Always examine if the stone is of the correct dimensions relation to the new opening.

   In this photo, more cleaning is necessary in creating the 4 corners. ALL ANGLES OF THE STONE MUST MATCH THE ANGLES OF THE INSIDE AREAS.

  What do 'we' have now? 

 1) We have all of the 4 metal-sides made equal to the 4 sides of the Square stone.

2) The inside of the Pavilion shape is now to accept the Square stone. 

3) The corner holes are not allowing any area of the stone to touch the metal. 

  This metal is 90% ready to accept the stone. The bearings inside the metal opening that will join the 4 drilled holes must be made equal to the width of the Girdle of the stone (not shown), sorry!

  Before any square stone is set, one thing is to remember that all of the 4 sides of the hole MUST be equal to the sides of the stone.

 I ALWAYS REPEAT THIS IMPORTANT FACT, THERE ARE NO SHORT-CUTS IN ANY EXERCISE IN DIAMOND SETTING.

 If I set this stone now, it will be 100% be crooked. How will I remedy this problem? I MUST re-align the upper area of metal, as each piece of metal will prevent any straight setting to occur. I'd even redrill the 4 inside corners AGAIN.

 Here you can see the bearings that are joining the 4 corner drillings. Please, please be so very watchful that these bearings JOIN EACH of the round bur drillings. These are your guides in the process of keeping the stone from being tilted.

 Isn't this a pretty sight to behold? This Princess-Cut stone is now ready to be 'secured & set tightly'. 

 This essay is all about the 'PREPARATION', not necessarily the setting processes. Without the preparation, no attempt of any setting can be attempted.

 I prefer to use my Reciprocating Hammer to MOVE the metal 'towards the stone' NEVER on the Girdle.

 I NEVER move any metal OVER the 4 corners, if so there will and could be broken corners. OUCH!

 Please make sure that there are no spaces between the Girdle and the metal. This is seen in this photograph, I did this on purpose just for you to see.

 All of the sides of metal have been 'smoothed', this is done by reducing the 'powerful impact hitting' by the Reciprocating Hammer. AGAIN, avoid any '4 corner hitting'. If any metal hits hard on the corners, (you might have to look for another diamond)!

 With a FLAT graver of a width #40, Bright-Cut all of the inside walls & all of the corners. I always use my Emery Wheel (Medium Grit) and then using Pumice Wheels #180 and then #1,000 grits to smooth and polish the metal. 

  Hooray, we have just completed one of the most challenging projects that went into my "Tutorial Blog" to date. I suggest that you explore your opportunities in practicing in silver with CZ's long before you make a setting with diamonds.

  I attempted to make this project easy to understand, 6-7 hours of demonstration went into this essay.  If you have any questions kindly email me at "gerrylewy18@gmail.com".