How do you shape your NEW ONGLETTE graver? => 31 photos

 This technique was the very first thing that I learned when I was an apprentice, circa 1961.

 This particular display graver was made for my 'left-handed, student' the store-bought Onglette graver is suitable for anyone who is either 'left, or right-handed'.

 This metal shaping technique will allow my student to be able to sit down and engrave immediately.

 This graver must first have the 'end removed' on the bench-grinder. It must be tightly locked into place as this process depends upon accuracy at all times.

 Here is a close-up of the 'end section' that must be removed to fit into the wooden handle to fit the length of the palm of the hand.

  Here are the FLAT and the Onglette gravers after the shaping has taken place.

 The graver must ALWAYS BE KEPT COOL, if not, the overheated steel will ruin any future work in metal carving. If there isn't any 'pooling' of water on the blade. STOP! Make sure that there is water sitting constantly on the blade.

 The optimum length of the (working area) of the blade is measured at 15mm's. After having the blade starting to get warm to your touch, drop it into water immediately!

 The total carving area is at a 'gentle curve' this whole process took me approximately 30 minutes, from start to finish.

 The graver must never exceed the first joint in the finger (as shown).

  To prevent any steel particles from getting into my skin, I used thin Latex gloves.

  From the start of the 'gentle curve', to the face of the graver was the length I measured with 15mm's.

 If any 'brown staining' is occurring, this means that the steel is getting overheated. KEEP THE BLADE COOL TO THE TOUCH.

  HERE ARE THE MANY (photo & text) DETALS OF GRAVER SHAPING & PAPER POLISHING.

 My very first step is to remove 1/2 of the blade that will be sitting inside of the wooden handle.

 GENTLY start the shaping of the 'face of the blade' that will be doing the metal carving.

 The measured length of the blade that will be used is 14.50 => 15.00 mm's.

 At the desired 'length on the blade' is where shaping is now to start. Keep your eyes on the 'measured length' at all times.

 NOTICE IF THERE IS ANY STAINING ON THE BLADE, THIS IS SO IMPORTANT. Keep a jar of water within close reach to the rotating grinding wheel.

 

 Once that the desired shape of the graver has been made, the next step is the "Paper Polishing", as I always write in this blog "There are no short-cuts anywhere in Diamond Setting".

 In this photo you can easily see that there are many water droplets collecting as the blade is held against the Emery Wheel.

  The first of many papers is the #240 grit Emery paper. This coarse paper removes any imperfections that might have been created within the creating of the blade.

(Some stone setter will use a #400 grit paper, I chose not to use this paper as it isn't always necessary). I will rub a soft graphite pencil core into the pores of every "Polishing Paper". This will make that paper even more softer and make it to a higher grit.

 With this newer grit #600 paper, it is even now within the range of #750 grit, WHY BUY MORE PAPERS IF WE CAN MAKE OUR OWN?

 I want to make the steel blade 'shiny to the touch'. I can do two things here, rub the graver on the #600 and then rub it again on the 'softer' pencil-rubbed section. 

WOW, two papers on just one side of the board!

You can see now that the steel blade is starting to shine like a mirror.

 With the rubbing of the pencil, the paper will be now from an #800 paper it will be now equivalent to #1,000 grit.

 We are getting even smoother paper due to this "pencil rubbing" process. The Polishing Paper was bought at #1,200 grit, it will be now almost #1,600 grit without buying any newer papers.

 Where the rubbing has taken place, it is best to put the blade first at the paper where hasn't been any 'rubbing'. Then carefully place the blade on the 'pencil rubbed' area.

 Always be mindful of where the blade is being positioned on the paper for polishing.

 I polished even the 'face & sides' of the graver. Now you can see how the metal is really shining. This is the "Left-Sided" Onglette blade.

REVIEW OF A FEW IMPORTANT STEPS:

 The desired length of the 'curvature of the shaping' should be 15.00mm's.

 KEEP YOUR FOCUS ON THE TAPERING THAT IS BEING DONE.

  KEEP YOUR ONGLETTE BLADE COOL AT ALL TIMES! OVERHEATING IS THE ULTIMATE ENEMY.

 ALWAYS LET SOME WATER REST ON THE BLADE, WHILE THE GRINDING IS BEING DONE.

 The Level of Difficulty is approximately 50 out of 10. 

Do YOU use PLIERS in gem-stone setting? => 48 photos

 Pliers are an unusual tool to use in setting stones, but there are some instances where they may 'open many doors'.

 I use them in locking in a stone using the claws. In my photo inventory culminating in the past 22 years, I found a rather interesting display of pliers being used.

 These pliers are my 'precious setting tools'. You will see that many of them have little  edges making them grip the claws while in use.  

  I chose some of them to be without any of these engraved surfaces. Especially when I wanted to have the metal jaws grip a wax model without having any marks remaining.

 As you can see I also chose to use the 'main and thicker' part of the jaws to move the bezel, instead of the thinner point.

 This action gave me a better chance of securing the stones. The next step was the 'hammering', but we won't delve into the setting aspect in this essay.

 This is the basic ring that has 30 claws all needing to be used in stone-setting. How would I move the claws over the stone, if not by using pliers?

 For this claw pendant, I decided to use my shellac stick to hold the pendant. I first drilled to remove any shellac, the main reason is to give the pliers greater access to each claw.

 The very first set of claws to move, is the outer row of claws. One of the plier jaws will be situated in an empty claw, while the outer jaw will do the moving. The outer jaw will do the moving while the inside jaw will do the gripping.

 This same moving process is shown in this photo, more pressure is put onto the outer claw. I'm only moving one claw, but not two claws.

 I'm using the pair of pliers with a 'bent formation'. This will give my hand and wrist a better and restful setting position. "A tired hand is not wanted".

 With a 'thinned plier jaw' this will give me a better chance of securing the claw. 

 The very final claw is the center claw, why is this? I use one plier jaw as an anchor in holding the stone as it's being set, the jaw will be literally resting inside the center hole.

 Each claw is to be gently brought in towards the stone. I'll be bringing together the 'tips' of each claw. The best pair of jaws is the 'slightly bent' shape, my wrist will therefore be in a more restful position.

 I decided to open up any remaining claws where necessary. This is for the plier jaws to be inserted into the opening. USE ONLY 'THIN-TOOTHED' PLIERS.

 With a set of thin jaws, I can get inside each opening with little or no effort whatsoever.

REVIEW:

 With a pointed awl, have all of the sets of claws gently opened for easier access for the plier jaws.

 These pliers can also be used in a wax form, but they are very gentle. Here you can see the "bent shape" of the jaws. There are NO DEEP RIDGES ALONG THE SIDES OF THE JAWS to ruin the delicate and soft wax.

 I contoured the end of the jaws even further, as the 'tool manufacturer' might not have the jaws modified to my own specific needs.

 When I needed to buy pliers, I was continually thinking about the future purpose. Pliers only have the basic shape, I always have them further modified at my bench. 

 When the need to set a large square stone as shown below, thicker jaws are warranted. 

 The positioning of the hand & plier jaw gives delicate pressure on each claw, instead of both together. The edges can be seen in this position, therefore there won't be any (dangerous) slipping during the delicate tightening process.

 The finished 'tightening processes' can be seen in this photo. There is no other method in this tightening.

  There are 8 sides to these 4, "V-shaped" claws and only fine-pointed jaws can grip the claws equally. Thus the jaw engraving is a gripping process that is 100% required.

 As this was only a display-ring, it wasn't for setting purposes, I only wanted to show how these pliers gently work in unison in holding the stone.

 

 Here is a great photo where the 2 'jaws work in tandem' to secure the stone.

 These plier jaws work as a 'team' in setting stones, the 'contact spot' is NOT AT THE POINT, but further along the claw. 

  Here is finished pendant with all of the stones set with pliers.

 You can see the jaws with the recesses in the metal.

 I personally feel more relaxed with the 'bent shape' of claws. This gives my hand & wrist a much easier time stone setting.

 I have amassed 14 pairs of pliers each was basically bought for a specific fragile setting.

REVIEW

 The jaws hold the claws tight and prevent any slipping during the setting process.

 With the 'bent' jaws as seen here, my wrist is laying horizontal to the ring.

Here is the box of "Separating Disks" and showing the diameter needed.

 Just another view, but this time demonstrating the disk starting to cut along the jaws.

 With these pliers, I cut further along the steel jaws, at one time my setting required a very longer gripping action.

 In my tool inventory, there is no other process in setting 'fancy-cut' stones other than using pliers.

  The deeply cut ridges were created with the help of a 'Separating Disk' cutting into the 2 jaws. They were not cut deep, but just enough to grip the claws.

 'Very fine teeth' on the pliers can be so important and critical. A thicker pair of pliers will prevent accurate viewing just where the jaw is holding the stone(s).

 If the metal surface is too deep in the jaws, it will leave deep ridges in the precious metal. Pumice wheel repair can lead to too many problems.

 If the jaw ridges are getting worn (fantastic), I have one pair of pliers for a gentler & delicate pressure in holding the claws. 

 These claws 'must be opposing' and not in any angled layout. This is why using pliers as the tightening process will be the best way to tighten these stones.

  This is what I mean by tightening in 'opposing' and not 'corner to corner'. Shallow ridges in  the metal surfaces will prevent any slipping of the jaws.