Setting OVAL Bezels (PLEASE READ THIS "REVIEW") - 42 photos

This is a major review of an important "tutorial essay". I've seen numerous attempts to explain the many techniques of "Bezel Setting". This essay could be 'the BEST one' you might find worth your time in reading.

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 I use a "High Speed Steel" bur, otherwise known as a 'HSS', cutting bur. This will be the best bur for cutting a deep groove into the bezel for this stone.

 The finer "156C" have its bur-teeth too close together and these teeth don't cut as deep. 

 This is a diagram of the HSS bur, you can see that these angles are equal to that of OUR OVAL STONE. So why would you select a bur without these preferred angles?

 The 'HSS' bur are best bur, or tool to use in preparing the multitude of angles for the facets of the OVAL stone.

 This is a photo of the fully completed Oval stone setting. There are loads of techniques to get to this stage. If I selected some of my photos photos 'out of sequence', my humblest apologies. 

 I'm displaying many coloured stones from my gemstone inventory. These might be out of sequence, but that's just my OVAL stone setting from a period of many weeks of work.

The most important observation in setting a large Oval stone, is to keep the stone flat.

   Here is my Onglette graver #2 Bright-Cutting the inside of the Bezel walls. 

 

  This is the 'flange' of metal during the Bright-Cutting process.

 

Any residual burs of metal should be removed with the aid of a Pumice wheel.

Error number one: The bezel is not hammered totally down on the stone. There is a space near the curve of the stone. In Bright-Cutting this could be a problem.

 Error two: Here is another view of the 'space', this is not acceptable!!!

  Error number three: After the hammering has been completed, it is more apparent that the 'space under the bezel lip' is more noticeable. Repeat the hammering process AGAIN.

 Never hammer on a wooden ring clamp as the wood absorbs all of the hitting pressure.

I always use my steel mandrel as a 'solid base' for the hammering.

 When I started the initial hammering, I secured the stone by hitting the four 'curved edges' first. This simple process keeps the stone aligned in the bezel, getting the stone crooked is a relative disaster, if the stone has been tightened.

 Once that the stone has been set, use your #4 cut Pillar file and trim the edges of the bezel. The finished bezel should have a 'curved shape'.

  You can now see the remnants of the metal filings.

 Trim the edges of the bezel with a Triangular file with a #4 grit. Then you could use the Pumice wheel of #180 grit to semi-polish the corners.

 NEVER LEAVE THIS FOR YOUR CLOTH-WHEEL, if you do, then the cloth-wheel might destroy all of your precision filing.

 All of the bezel frame needs to be cleaned with your Pillar file again with a  #4 grit.

  IMPORTANT NOTICE: Check for any uneven finishing on the 'Under-Bezel' then use your Tapered Pumice wheel to remove any uneven finishing. This should be 'repaired' before the stone is set.

 This stone hasn't been set yet, this is the 'best time' to clean where it's needed.

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 There are many areas of this HSS-bur where these angles of the bur match the angles of the stone. I suggest learning these angles and where they occur on the bur.

 This photo shows where the bur is cutting these stone angles. (This can be a 'training exercise' for you).

 I always put the stone into the bezel and check if its not 'rocking', if it does that means the stone hasn't been properly drilled out. DO THIS DRILLING AGAIN!!!

With a round bur that is larger than the Girdle of the stone put this round where edge of the HSS bur was cutting. This will be in the exact position where the Girdle will be sitting.

  

  You can now see where the 'Round and the HSS burs' have been doing the cutting.

 AGAIN, check to see if the stone isn't rocking, if it isn't, then you can proceed with your OVAL stone setting.

 If the Girdle of your stone is too thick for the Bezel, just redrill with a larger round bur where necessary.

 If another series of HSS bur cutting is required, you should do it now!

 Remembering that the Culet is not leaning against any inside metal, this could be a major problem further as the stone won't sit well.

 I always have an assortment of other Oval stones if one won't fit, then you have others to work on.

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 The round bur should always be larger than the thickness of the stone.

  This is exactly where the round bur should be drilling.

  

  Once your stone is finally sitting in the Bezel, then starts your hammering with your "Riveting Hammer". 

 The hammer face MUST ALWAYS BE SMOOTH, WITH NO DEEP MARKS. These marks will be quickly transferred to the Bezel wall, to remove any deep marks this can cause many cleaning problems.

  I always secure and then to prevent any twisting of the stone there is one way to prevent this problem. Start your hammering at the 'four ends of the bezel wall'. 

This will process will stabilize the stone and prevent any movement during the tightening.

 After the hammering has been completed then come the final cleaning. I use my Pumice Wheel of #180 grit, I prefer these wheels to ensure a clean and shiny finish.

 For the top of the Bezel wall, I will use my Flat, Pumice Wheel to give me a flat surface. You notice that I avoid any metal filing, why is this? If I use a Pillar or Triangular file of #4 grit, there will be striations on the surface and these will be rather difficult to remove. 

 At the last moment, make sure that there are no spaces anywhere under the bezel walls. If there are any, then the Bright-Cutting cannot get started.

The Onglette graver of  number 2 is the best graver to give you a shiny inside surface.

 When all of the setting and hammering has been completed, then you will have a "Piece of Wearable Art'. Enjoy your ring.

 Always remember that the first 100 rings, this gemstone setting will become much easier to do.

 

Smoother Oilstone you could use - 7 photos

 This smoother oilstone is something you can use while "Bright-Cutting" on soft (Silver) or even karat gold metal.

 In the background is the type of lubricant I use on either smoother or the more porous oilstone (brown colour) with equally satisfying results.

  I use this softer oilstone for one purpose and that is to modify the steel blade. This modification allows me to create a thinner blade for Bright-Cutting in my engraving.

 I hold every graver at a prescribed angle of 45degrees, not any higher, or a lower angle.

 I would even refurbish the underneath face of the Flat graver, with this smoother stone texture, I can navigate where the new Face, or surface can be created.

 I first hold my graver in an 'upright position', the purpose is to steady my hand and then I'll lower my hand to the exact 45degree angle.

This is my original (much coarser) "INDIA OILSTONE, FB6" made by 'NORTON".

 The desired cutting angle is at the most common and acceptable 45degrees. This cutting angle is much more accurate in cutting in gold.

ALWAYS LUBRICATE YOUR BLADE WHEN IN USE. Even a slightest heating can reduce the HSS to be less tolerant in the metal cutting.

Repairing your "High Speed Steel" setting bur - 7 photos

 This essay was posted in the MJSA magazine July-2024. This time you are seeing the photos up close in 'our' blog.

 Here is a badly worn bur through many weeks of continual use. This "High Speed Steel" bur has cone in contact with hard gold and the edges of the teeth have gotten badly worn or broken off. Don't throw away these expensive steel burs, you can now easily repair them.

 I first darken the bur with a coloured pen, this will allow me to see which tooth I'm going to be repairing.

 With a "Separating Disk" that is 7/8th of an inch in diameter. I will very carefully apply this rotating wheel to EACH TOOTH OF THIS BUR. Only the fine edge of each tooth will be touched, not the whole tooth. This is a time-saving process.

 When the new bur has been repaired, PLEASE BE ADVISED that 'every fixing' changes the diameter of the repaired bur by small increments. These changes are not noticeable at first glance, but they are changed by measured mm's.

 There is no need to repair the whole tooth, as the 'initial contact spot' is only at the edge of the bur as shown in this photo.

 The 'separating disk' renews the 'contacting spot' for future gem stone setting. Thus saving you loads of 'hard earned' money. Many of my inventory of HSS burs have been repaired in this manner.

 I didn't feel that a long text essay should be needed. I just wanted to show the salient facts of this 'repairing process'.