I saw this photograph on the front cover of the MJSA.ORG magazine where my JULY-2024 essay appeared. I looked at the cover and wondered for only a few seonds to see how the stones were to stay in.
From my experience "the light turned on". The answer was so easy to understand, BUT there area few technical notes for you to understand.
The positioning of the 'bearings' is the ultimate key to holding the stone in place. My diagram is the answer to the whole question. It isn't the bearing or groove that we are interested in, but what angle they were cut at?
I didn't learn this technique in a book, or video. It came from my own 'thinking processes on gemstone setting' that was learned from experimenting & hard work.
How wide should the bearing-groove be? It has to be the EXACT THICKNESS OF THE GIRDLE FACET OF THE STONE, nothing more and nothing less.
The grooves for the many stones were not made out of "just doing it". Each groove had to be placed where that claw 'met the position of the stone'. SIMPLE AS THAT!
One more note: don't make the new bearing too deep into the claw, if you do, then the claw won't be positioned vertically. If the claw is bent too extreme, the tightening won't be helpful in holding both stones tight.
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Once the claw rests equally against the two stones, all of the planning makes your setting a very easy task. This simple ruling is the culmination of this whole essay.
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