Where would you use the "Emery, Snap-On" Disks? => 16 photos

 There are many reasons for these Emery Wheels; here are a few of them. First of all, the grit texture that I constantly use is "Medium grade." They also come in "Fine" and "Course." 

 Your needs may be different from mine, but each jeweller has their own specific 'grit' requirements.  

 The diameter of these wheels is "7/8th of an inch" and always keep a vast supply on hand. 

 The nice part of these disks is that I can turn the Emery buffing to the reverse side. This is only if I need to be more comfortable in holding the Emery wheel.

In this photo is a group of Emery wheels that are Coarse, Medium and Fine grits. Instead of removing every wheel from each mandrel, I suggest buying one mandrel for each disk. 

 The very popular brand of Emery wheels/disks is "Moore". 

 When I need to buy a few months' supply, I won't buy a dozen of them, I'll buy a hundred at a time. I don't want to keep running to my tool supplier and wasting my time for a few disks.

As you can see those numbers are the grit, as in "P-220".

 This is a photo of a new and untouched disk and ready to be used.

 This disk is ready to be discarded, it's done its hard work...' good-bye'

 

  You can now hear the mandrel that will give you the 'snap' tightening sound caused by the quick 'tightening & locking' of the brass centre piece.

                Various opportunities for using these EMERY disks.

 1) Many times I'd use these wheels to recut a 'twist drill' that has become badly worn. In this situation, keep the rotating speed to a minimum. 'SPEED KILLS'.

 2) I use these disks to refurbish the tip of the 'Reciprocating Hammer' anvil.

3) Instead of using a 'needle file', I always allow the Emery disk to do the filing. If I used my file, the claws might move and loosen the stone.

4) When the hammering on a Channel Setting has been completed, I prefer to remove any indentations with this Emery disk. But NEVER allow the disk to touch the stones.

5) After the 'Flush Setting' has been finished, I'd again prefer the soft paper disk to smooth the metal. As a rule, never permit the Emery wheel to come in contact with the centre stone. The rotating disk should bend during the 'finishing'.

 =>I inked the TOP of the Bezel to let me know where the Emery wheel had touched.

6) Keep the grit/texture ALWAYS at 'Medium' grit. Here you can nicely smooth the main area of the ring. The 'bending of the wheel' will easily conform with the angles of the ring. Good idea?

7) The Bezel is the most delicate area in using a 'Snap-On" Emery wheel. Why is that? One bad move with a metal file will leave 'flat spots' on the sides of the Bezel, we don't want this to happen, do we?

 As I mentioned above, the 'bending of the paper wheel' will give you the desired angles in the finishing of the bezel top.

8) No matter where on any part of the ring you are working with, stay with the same grit, but never any coarser. If you need a 'Fine' grit, so be it.

 WE ARE DEALING WITH VERY SOFT MATERIALS, keep this in your mind at all times.

    PRACTICE OFTEN IN USING THESE "SNAP-ON, EMERY DISKS". THEY WILL ALWAYS GIVE YOU A FANTASTIC FINISH.