Saturday, 30 September 2023

What is a FLAT graver & what can it do in Diamond Setting? => 23 photo's.

   In between my writing, my wife and I have had long bouts of COVID, both of us were in the hospital on various occasions. I'm trying to stay awake, as this enemy just drains my ability to write, COVID-exhaustion is the main culprit and the constant coughing. YUK!

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  We've discussed 'ad infinitum' about Onglette gravers, now it's time to work with these FLAT cutting tools. These gravers have just one purpose and that is to make flat-cutting angles, the graver with the yellow tang is a FLAT GRAVER. The other blades that are shown are the (untouched) Onglette tools.

 All of the gravers (plus those HSS bearing-cutters) that I use are composed of HSS (High Speed Steel) not like the Carbide steel that we use commonly with burs.

 
 As being seen in my previous essays, these are my "Emery & Polishing" Papers. The soft drafting-pencil rubbing puts an extra layer of graphite into the pores of the Polishing papers, why? This simple application makes each additional paper that much more enhanced and highly polished thus leading to a 'brighter cutting surface'. TRY THIS.

 I use a brown handle for identification purposes ONLY, as I keep my 'Flat gravers' always in this 'wine-coloured' handle.

 When Bright-Cutting a "Princess, Square-cut" stone. I always make sure that the inner square Bezel is spotless and with a smooth sheen to it.
 Onglette gravers just can't achieve these "box-like", straight lines.


 This is the epitome of a 'FLAT GRAVER'. I made the 'face' thin, but with a highly polished surface using my "Polishing Papers" of #600, #800 grit then finally a #1,200 grit polishing higher gloss steel blade. "Emery Papers" are in the grit of #180, #240 & #400.


Here are various widths of the FLAT gravers.

In my favourite "Fish-Tail" pattern, I selected in cutting the metal by using the 'corner' of the blade. These is no other process or tool available to achieve this delicate pattern. Nothing in my repertoire, or graver inventory that has such a great opportunity in cutting this design.

This BLACK is not black, but just a reflection of light being bounced off of the flat metal.

 These were NOT C.A.D.(computer) CREATED squares, but were initially carefully hand scribed 'box-like' squares. On a Scale of Difficulty, this exercise Rates @ 13, out of 10. 

 Instead of using a 'metal-pusher' in this bracelet, I used a flat graver to gently press each claw over every stone. As you can see, FLAT GRAVERS HAVE OTHER USEFUL USES IN GEMSTONE SETTING.


 Instead of filing the 'corner' claws, I "Bright-Cut" every one of them as shown here. How many setters use this finishing process?

 By the simple cutting being shown, I'm allowing the reflection of the inner cutting to make the "Princess-stone look 25-30% larger". Good idea?
 Only a Flat graver can do this for YOU.

 I'm showing you that the 'corner-edge' of this FLAT-GRAVER in how it creates a delicate pattern that literally no Onglette graver can achieve.
 In this photo, every section of this remarkable tool is being 100% used. Now you see just why I shape my graver so thin in the 'cutting-face'.

From using a simple 'rough-cutting' of an Onglette graver, I've chosen in cutting every line in this  extensive pattern. Not one area has been neglected, as my FLAT graver now has multiple uses.

 (NB. There are 'water stains' during my iPhone taking of this picture). No possibility that an Onglette graver can cut with any degree of accuracy, that's why I again chose my FLAT.

As you can see that there is many areas showing 'reflection' on both sides of the strip of stone-setting. Can your Onglette graver create these 'reflections'? (Hardly)

 When I'm "Gypsy-setting" a Princess-Cut, Square stone as shown here AFTER SETTING, what is the next step?

 What I always do, is to 'Bright-Cut' the inner square!!The next few photos describe the setting processes in using only a FLAT graver. NOTHING ELSE!
We create "Pieces of Art", not filing rings to make them look nice!


 I use my Flat graver to scribe where the stone will be sitting. That diagonal corner-line is where the corner of the stone will lay.

Once the stone has been fitted and creating a 'bearing' for the Girdle, what next? I MUST clean the four edges, not with a file or a bur, but again with the FLAT  graver.
You can easily see how 'rough' the edges appear.



 In this 'final' photo..(hooray) the FLAT graver is thoroughly carving & cleaning these 'corners & sides' prior to the setting processes. Is this a delicate process? For sure it is.

 I had no intention in explaining how to set this stone, but suffice to say, I wanted to demonstrate where this FLAT graver will perform the necessary 'works of art'.
 Again as before, I'm using my corner edge of this graver to recreate a clean edge.