How do you set 'Oval Bezel' rings =>27 photos

 I've seen some oval bezel stone-setting in my many years. In this essay, I will not copy them, these following techniques are my own FOR YOU TO COPY.

 I use only one style of burs in this style of setting. This bur is a 156 High-Speed Steel, otherwise known as "156 HSS".

 If you use a "156 Carbide" bur you will find that the teeth of the bur very close together and are not aggressive enough to cut into the metal. The teeth only skim along the surface and don't prepare for accurate and intense cutting that is needed here.

 The hammering process needs to follow one rule. This rule is to hammer at a prescribed sequence of events.

 If the hammering starts at #7-9-11 then followed by #12-8-10 on this diagram. The results will be catastrophic with the stone being 'crooked and slanted' in it's bezel.

 This rule as now shown requires that the hitting process is initiated at #1-2 => then #3-4 => then finally #5-6. THIS IS THE SEQUENCE TO FOLLOW with no deviations, nor shortcuts!

 Once the stone is in this bezel, now comes the hammering process. I generally use my 85.0-gram hammer as this particular hammer has the best weight for 'bezel hitting'.

 When the hammering has started, remember that THERE MUST NOT BE ANY SPACES BETWEEN THE STONE AND THE METAL. The Bezel must be flush with the stone.

  If the stone has a deep Culet, then that Culet should be placed upon the steel mandrel and the Culet must be placed where the Mandrel groove is situated.

  This hammer was not to be used for gentle Bezel Setting, why not? First of all, it is too heavy. The setter's view is totally obscured and the setter cannot see where the hitting is being done.

 This hammer is still too heavy, but under certain circumstances, it could be used for more aggressive stone setting.

 You can see where the Culet of the stone is almost resting against the mandrel, but not touching the steel.

 If the Culet is damaged, WOOPS. You should remove the stone and replace it immediately...GOODBYE $$$.00

 

 You could use a round bur to carve a 'bearing' groove and prepare to set the stone. There will be problems if you choose this process, why is that? 

 The new bearing will not be deep enough into the metal or allow the girdle of the stone to fit into the bezel. The next problem is that the girdle will not be at the same width for the stone either.

 If the round bur is your choice of cutting there is a b-i-g problem starting, The stone could be set crooked or tilted, THIS CAN BE A MAJOR PROBLEM. To avoid the problem please use a "156-HSS" cutting bur.

 

   Here is the result of using a round bur, this stone is crooked!

 You have little control in making a bearing cut 1) deep into the metal. 2) uniform in girdle width all around the bezel. 3) allowing the metal to be at the same difference from the bezel tip to where the girdle will be. The result is DON'T USE A ROUND BUR.

 Before you start to hammer the tip of the bezel, place the Culet into the mandrel opening.

  This oval stone is almost acceptable as it is 'slightly tilted'.

 From this angle, the stone is nice and flat.  

  I'm using a Reciprocating Hammer, you can see that the anvil is not touching the stone. It is gently 'moving the metal' towards the stone.

 I changed the position of the hammer anvil tas it is gently 'moving' more metal along the bezel.

 I always use a Flat graver to "Bright-Cut" the inside of the Bezel wall.

 In this close-up photo, you can now see the piece of metal being removed while the cutting action is in operation.

  After the stone is secured and tightened, I'd gently use a wide file of a #4 grit to evenly clean the hammered area flat.

 I enjoy using the Pumice Wheel of #180 grit to smooth the top of the above bezel wall from all of the hitting. You can see the slight angle being given to the bezel tip.

  

 I'll finish the cleaning of the bezel but using a PINK Pumice Wheel of #1,200 grit. Instead of using a cloth polishing wheel that can round off any edges, I chose to manually 'save the edges' that give a great finish to the bezel.

 I continued to clean the main section of the ring with a "Medium" grit of my "Snap-on, Emery" wheel. This will give a nice finish where it's needed.

 During the overall cleaning, I will examine any defects from the metal casting and repair them NOW!

  Inside this ring I noticed a few casting problems, these must be repaired NOW.

 

How to set an 'Emerald-Cut' Diamond => 20 photos

 In 2018, I took some photos of an Emerald-Cut synthetic stone. These photos lay on my iPhone, until today 2025, these photos described how to set this stone.

 In my estimation, the actual setting process is very exacting and very difficult even for the "Intermediate Level" jeweller, or a setter.

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=>BTW, I used a ring that needed small diamonds. The setting of these small stones is done after the centre stone has been set.

 How many stone setters actually "Bright-Cut" the inside areas of the claw tips? (I do this all of the time.)

 The Level of Difficulty is rated at 15 out of 10. You will soon see why I put this level so darned high.

 These FOUR CLAWS MUST ALWAYS CONFORM TO SHAPE OF THE STONE! There are no shortcuts in this procedure.

  All of the 'internal cutting & shaping' must adhere to the shape of the Pavilion and Crown Facets of the 'Emerald-Cut' stone.

 If there are detailed facet edges or corners, then these must complement the internal cuttings in the corners of the claws. Understand?

 Once that the stone has been set, what next? The next stage is to envelope the metal of the claw around this 'odd-shaped' stone. Don't create any 'rounded corners' to these claws.

 What process is needed to set the stone? 

 Remembering that there are now 8 sides to these 4 claws. Believe me, this is not an easy stone setting process. 

There are definite rules to follow, if these 'rules' are not followed, the stone will be easily be set CROOKED.

 It is so important that all of the '8 sides of these 4 claws' be moved together equally. But how is this accomplished?   

 The points of the pliers must touch the metal 'equally' on both sides of the 4 claws. 

  There is very little 'metal squeezing' being administered. This 'metal pushing' is done carefully, albeit slowly.

  

 The 'moving of the metal' is done with a 'rough texture' of plier jaws. This is created by using a Corundum wheel that stops the smooth surface from sliding the jaws closed. 

 Therefore the jaws won't keep sliding off the metal when being tightened.

  This is another photo of what the 'gripping process' looks like and where it is located.

 You don't need 'big and ugly looking plier jaws', all that is now required is a tapered point to the plier tips.

       

       "Bright-Cutting" the four "V" shaped claws.

   If you are inclined and proficient in 'Bright Cutting' then the inside of the "V" shaped claws will finish the claws nicely. The Flat graver that has been highly polished on #1,200 grit polishing paper will suffice.

  This Flat-bottomed graver will make gentle cuts into the metal and execute a very clean cutting action.

 

  This is my complete collection of 'polishing sticks'.

            

 The Bright-Cutting is to start at the outside edge of the "V" and work towards the inside of the "V".

  When all of the setting has been completed, the next step is to trim the claws. I use a Triangular file with a #4 grit.

 To make the "V" shape more distinct, I use a small bud-shaped bur and cut a little groove and aim my graver into that 'spot'.

 Here are a few added notes: Create a wider bearing for the Faceted Corners. I always use a round bur and create little holes where the faceted corners will sit. 

 After this stone has been (finally) set, you can trim the claws to your taste.

  

  These photos show the display of talent for yourself. DON'T RUSH, THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS ALLOWED in this exercise. 

 

Drilling of holes in a new ring => 14 photos

 Why are 'drilling holes' so full of problems? The chances are ruining a new ring can be full of unforeseen errors.

 This essay explains what 'drilling' is all about. There is a lot of thought going on in these few photos, this technique is '8 out of 10' on my Difficulty Scale.

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 Before any holes are drilled there is a great chance even now to have errors. What I suggest is to use a round bur and create an indentation into the metal, why is this so important? 

 When the twist drill starts to pierce the metal, it won't run amok along the curved or flat surface. THIS WILL HAPPEN, trust me!

  Hold the twist drill in a perpendicular position or at a 90-degree angle to the metal.

 It is imperative to have this new hole aimed to be ready for stone opening. I would create a hole that is 75% of the size of the intended stone setting.

  NEVER LEAN THE BUR OPENING AS SEEN IN THIS PHOTO.

 I avoid using a 'bud bur' as this new drilling could leave you with an OVAL or an odd-shaped hole.

 Just to examine how the drilling is continuing, I buff up the metal for a better view. 

 This little technique is only to see where the holes are drilled.

 Before any holes are drilled, I make a habit of 'inking' where every new hole will be made. 

 Added Drilling notes!

NEVER HOLD THE TWIST DRILL AT AN ANGLE.

  Keep the drill in an upright position!

  Keep your twist drill well-oiled as this will prevent overheating of the fast-rotating drill.

 If there is a collection of oil on the metal, leave it there. This collection of oil will keep your drill well-lubricated.

  Don't be vague about where each stone will be set. I rely upon an 'inked line' to locate the centre where the stones will be drilled.

 

  OOPS, there is no oil acting as a lubricant shown in this photo.

 If the twist drill overheats many problems will then start. The drill will bind and break with shards of steel remaining in the precious metal and this will be a major problem in trying to remove the steel.