How to set an 'Emerald-Cut' Diamond => 20 photos

 In 2018, I took some photos of an Emerald-Cut synthetic stone. These photos lay on my iPhone, until today 2025, these photos described how to set this stone.

 In my estimation, the actual setting process is very exacting and very difficult even for the "Intermediate Level" jeweller, or a setter.

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=>BTW, I used a ring that needed small diamonds. The setting of these small stones is done after the centre stone has been set.

 How many stone setters actually "Bright-Cut" the inside areas of the claw tips? (I do this all of the time.)

 The Level of Difficulty is rated at 15 out of 10. You will soon see why I put this level so darned high.

 These FOUR CLAWS MUST ALWAYS CONFORM TO SHAPE OF THE STONE! There are no shortcuts in this procedure.

  All of the 'internal cutting & shaping' must adhere to the shape of the Pavilion and Crown Facets of the 'Emerald-Cut' stone.

 If there are detailed facet edges or corners, then these must complement the internal cuttings in the corners of the claws. Understand?

 Once that the stone has been set, what next? The next stage is to envelope the metal of the claw around this 'odd-shaped' stone. Don't create any 'rounded corners' to these claws.

 What process is needed to set the stone? 

 Remembering that there are now 8 sides to these 4 claws. Believe me, this is not an easy stone setting process. 

There are definite rules to follow, if these 'rules' are not followed, the stone will be easily be set CROOKED.

 It is so important that all of the '8 sides of these 4 claws' be moved together equally. But how is this accomplished?   

 The points of the pliers must touch the metal 'equally' on both sides of the 4 claws. 

  There is very little 'metal squeezing' being administered. This 'metal pushing' is done carefully, albeit slowly.

  

 The 'moving of the metal' is done with a 'rough texture' of plier jaws. This is created by using a Corundum wheel that stops the smooth surface from sliding the jaws closed. 

 Therefore the jaws won't keep sliding off the metal when being tightened.

  This is another photo of what the 'gripping process' looks like and where it is located.

 You don't need 'big and ugly looking plier jaws', all that is now required is a tapered point to the plier tips.

       

       "Bright-Cutting" the four "V" shaped claws.

   If you are inclined and proficient in 'Bright Cutting' then the inside of the "V" shaped claws will finish the claws nicely. The Flat graver that has been highly polished on #1,200 grit polishing paper will suffice.

  This Flat-bottomed graver will make gentle cuts into the metal and execute a very clean cutting action.

 

  This is my complete collection of 'polishing sticks'.

            

 The Bright-Cutting is to start at the outside edge of the "V" and work towards the inside of the "V".

  When all of the setting has been completed, the next step is to trim the claws. I use a Triangular file with a #4 grit.

 To make the "V" shape more distinct, I use a small bud-shaped bur and cut a little groove and aim my graver into that 'spot'.

 Here are a few added notes: Create a wider bearing for the Faceted Corners. I always use a round bur and create little holes where the faceted corners will sit. 

 After this stone has been (finally) set, you can trim the claws to your taste.

  

  These photos show the display of talent for yourself. DON'T RUSH, THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS ALLOWED in this exercise.