Monday, 10 March 2025

Errors in checking DIAMONDS in a Channel Setting => (17 drawings)

This is what a completed diamond ring 'should' look like.


 When the jeweller is expanding the ring, it is safer to rotate it, otherwise it will become slightly oval in its overall shape. 

 On your 'rotating mandrel' this is what 'could and would' happen if the ring has not been rotated continually.

 There must not be any spaces between the stone and the metal on the 'Channel' bars. If there is, then the stone will never get tight.

The 'stone tightening tool' must be the same width as the Channel Bar. If the tool-tip is wider then it will touch the gemstone. Then the results will not not be favourable and could be difficult to repair.

 If there are any areas of the ring that need to made be symmetrical, please repair the ring immediately.

 Tool marks from any tightening need to be repaired and not left for the customer to see them.

  The editor of these diagrams (not me) thought that squeezing the stone to see if that stone was loose was a good idea.
 I don't know where the editor learned this technique from, but never DON'T DO THIS. There are many chances of breaking the Girdle of the stone. 
 
 Check that all of the measurements are what the customer wishes. 

 When you are checking the validity of the shape or just holding the ring, it is incumbent upon yourself to keep the ring ROUND. Just keep it secured on your ring mandrel.

 These marks leave much to be desired of the jeweller who was attempting to repair the ring. Why were there any 'marks' remaining on the Channel bars? I have some real choice words of the qualifications of the jewellers training.

 If any stones were loose, as I previously stated, don't use this technique. The easiest method of tightening any loose stone is to hammer GENTLY on the top of the Channel bars. 

At this point, do an overall 'quality control' inspection.

 What tools were used in finishing the Channel Setting? If there are any abrasive cleaning tools please be advised that there must not be any 'tool marks' remaining anywhere on the ring. 

 This is my first choice in tightening any loose gemstone. There must not be any spaces remaining in the 'bearing grooves'. GENTLY TAP THE CHANNEL BAR as this will prevent any stone from moving.

 DON'T TAP THE STONE TO MAKE IT TIGHT. Always keep the stone lying flat and not sitting crooked.

 I must repeat, THIS IS NOT THE SAFEST METHOD OF CHECKING FOR ANY LOOSE STONES.


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