ONLY 'END BEZELS' (Securing & Hammering) -19 photos.

 This is not an exercise but of a 'technique'. It is one of the most important features of setting square stones in 'end bezels'.

 The difficulty is "Rated at 15, out of 10 on my Difficulty Scale" as this is not for the 'beginner'.

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What tools are required to set these Princess-Cut stones?

 I suggest using a "Reciprocating Hammer" with the hammering tension set to a "hitting speed" of SLOW. Being careful is an understatement!!!

 We have stones sitting against each other. I always say "Speed Kills"  and this is where doing the stone setting quickly, could severely damage or break the stones.

The stones must be prepared well in advance. Each stone has a square Pavilion that needs to be carefully 'bur-cut & opened' into the bezel.

Under close examination many areas need to be cleaned with a #002 - #003 Bud bur.

 As I don't want any of the two stones to slide out. My stone bearing will be carved out with two individual bearings.  Look carefully as the two seats or bearings, are not joined together. This will prevent any 'side movement' of the stones.

 With your "Reciprocating Hammer" GENTLY hammer the two stones into their respective spots in the setting.

 One of these two stones is slightly crooked and of the wrong shade of PINK. It's too late to fix or repair them.

 I put little 'mini-beads' over the main stone. If I didn't do this, I'd be having a difficult time in keeping the stone tight during the hammering process.

 Just for a different display, I inserted a long white stone, but using only one long bearing. At the end of the ring setting I inserted two stones.

 Was this a convoluted gem-setting process? YES, but anything can be done if the skill & techniques are there.

  Here is the #1 bearing cut prior to placing the center stone in the ring.

 

  Here is the #2 photo showing the additional Pavilion carving for the stone before setting.

 I created an 'unorthodox tightening' process by raising many mini-beads to prevent ANY MOVEMENT. Do what I did if you have any other way of securing your stones.

 You can be inventive and discover other methods of keeping your stone tight. The hammering process can be a challenge at the best of times.

 

 The stones should be tight against each other. This 'special tightening' can be a tough experience for the first time in this stone-setting project.

 When the hammering has been completed, then and only then, can you cut (remove) these mini-pieces of metal away with your Onglette graver.

With having stones of unequal widths can leave you with the stones overlapping. IF THIS BEING THE CASE, select a smaller size.

 No two stones (together) should be longer than the channel of the ring.

   The 'overlapping' is hardly noticeable, but it happened.

 The width of the bearing is governed solely by the width of the Girdle of the stone. Always be cognizant of this fact.

 On this simulated Princess (square) stone there could be 4 sides of the stone with 4 widths. Create your new seat that will occupy the 2 sides of nearly same width.

 The two white stones are as close as possible, without any breakage. As you can see there is no spacing at all. WOW!

 Long before any stones are being set, use your Tapered Pumice Wheel of #180 grit and remove any deep marks in the metal.

 When the many stones have been set, it's too late to use any cloth wheels or Pumice wheels. Precision cleaning of the ring is paramount in setting stones.

  This is one of the intricate stone settings, there can be many problems in the stone setting. JUST BE SO VERY CAREFUL.

"Princess-Cut" stone setting with greater details - 12 photos

 This 'repeated essay' will be given to you to have a better understanding on "How to set a Princess-Cut stone in a 4-claw Engagement ring". I will explain every aspect and the many suggestions in completing this exercise.

 I never write "Do this or do that, but WHY you should do it without harming your stones".

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 The first step is to have every claw at the same height, even if it has to be filed down with your emery disk.

At approximately 1/2 the distance from the tip of the claw, a round bur will make a hole. This is where the corner of the stone will be situated.

 

 The next step is to use a Bud-shaped bur of approximately #006  => #007 in size. This bur will cut at a 45 degree angle on the inside of the lower bezel. This is to remove any metal that the stone might be touching.

 

 

This is another closer photo of the bur starting to cut the bezel at 45 degree angle.

  From the claw hole there MUST BE ANOTHER SERIES OF CUTS. These cuts are for the edge of the Pavilion of the stone to rest against. 

 THERE IS SO MUCH CUTTING IN BEING DONE FOR THIS SQUARE STONE. Just so much mind-boggling action taking place, just be so careful.

 On both sides of the one hole, the must be TWO MORE SIDE CUTS, why? This is where the "Girdle-Facet" must against the claw.

 For each claw, all of the facets of the stone now have FOUR 'contact spots'. How many minutes of frustration are needed to prepare for this setting? MANY!

 The four claws need now to be extended outward to capture the large stone. This only a temporary step as we need to have a greater access to the stone in the claw-setting.

 FINALLY, the stone is being placed into the '4-claw basket'. PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE SQUARE STONE IS SITTING FLAT AND NOT TWISTED.

 Always be aware that the four Pavilion STONE FACETS are not touching the inside of the Bezel.

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 When tightening the four claws NEVER, NEVER TIGHTEN THE TWO CLAWS 'CORNER TO THE OPPOSING CORNER'. There must never be any pressure put on the stone, or breakage will occur.

 To be safe, just tighten two side claws and repeat all around the 4-claw head.

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 Let's continue on further, have your Emery (#220 grit) disk keep the claws at the same height.

 With your large 77B Cup-Bur start rounding the claws. The selected BUR MUST ALWAYS BE LARGER THAN THE TIP OF THE CLAW.

 

 Never, never hold the bur perpendicular to the stone, why not, you ask? 

Your bur will come in contact to the fragile stone (Emerald, Amethyst or a stone with less than 6 on the Mohs scale). Always hold the bur-teeth away so the 'rotating teeth' won't touch the stone.

 If you wish to use your Tapered Pumice wheel of #180 grit to do any claw-cleaning. Do this now as your cloth polishing-wheel will ruin all of your hard labours in rounding the sharp edges on your "Piece of Wearable Art".

               HOORAY, THE 'PRINCESS STONE' IS NOW SET & COMPLETED! 

      This stone setting is about 9 out of 10, on the Difficulty Scale.