What do "Shared Beads" look like"? => 17 photos

  In this essay, I'm showing what "Shared Beads" initially look like. Many of these photos explain how they are 'constructed and spaced' in the metal.

 These are not "CAD" designed and created, but by using 'mini-claws'. 

 I'd avoid using my Onglette graver to create beads as these wouldn't be strong enough. I chose the uniform protection & strength of large pieces of metal, aka claws.

 It is here that there is uniformity in the sizes of these 'strong' mini-claws.

   All of my metal cutting is completed before any gemstones are set.

 It is your choice to apply a 'Milgrain' edge, I'd avoid this step, as it doesn't enhance the overall design.

 Wherever there is a 'step' in the angles on the ring (as shown), follow it through with the metal cutting. I avoid making a 'curve' out of an 'abrupt, sharp step' design.

 

 This completed ring shows how much time has been spent in planning each step to fruition.

 In between each hole, there are 'little bars of metal', these bars will eventually be 'mini-claws'. I used a bud bur to create these new 'mini-claws'.

  This essay is built around two separate rings yellow & white gold. The diamonds must not be touching, but allowing enough metal to create the future claws.

 The large diamond MUST BE SET FIRST. It is virtually impossible to set the large diamond after the small stones have been set.

The first in the series of diamonds was the largest in the collection. Towards the end of the row were the smallest, thus giving a 'tapering' effect.

 This large diamond was lowered into the 'split shank' on purpose, why? The idea was to give me ample metal for creating the mini-claws.

  You can easily see how deep into the metal the stone is to sit. 

What is the actual depth of the large diamond? I prefer to have the 'Table Facet' of the stone to be at the surface of the 'split shank'.

 Initially, the first stage of drilling the holes is to have the stones well-centred and spaced equally along the diamond strip.

 Once the stones have been well spaced, it is now easy to start the drilling of the holes for these stones.

 These photos show the thought that has gone into 'spacing and setting'.

 When the stones are finally 'well-positioned and set', it is easy that the stones are now almost touching. The whole idea is to avoid having any slivers of metal remaining in between the mini-claws.

  

 This silver display plate, it shows 'what and where' the mini-claws will be situated.  I will use a Bead-Burnisher to push over the metal of the mini-claws to each stone.

Gemstone Studded => "CAD" created Poker-chip disks =>30 photos

 All of these photos were "CAD" created, and I gave these ideas directly to my CAD operator.

  If you are interested in copying any of them, please do so as I have 'no copyright ruling' on any of them. These are my gifts to you at NO CHARGE!

 When I was awarded my "Guinness World Record" my mind worked at a fast pace and I then created this line of jewellery.

 BTW, I have another tutorial essay with a complete line of 'casino related' jewellery blog dated "Sept.7th. 2024".

  For my American friends here is a 'Flag Disk' just for you!

 I chose to use "shared claws" on the outside row of stones.

 

  I chose to show not one row of gemstones but two layers of stones. This includes the Blue Sapphires you may use Emeralds, but all stones that you choose must be uniform in 'colours and sizes'.

  This CAD program details the weights & number of stones with their specific dimensions.

 Uniformity in sizes of stones is 100% critical, I can't impress you further with your stone choice.

Many of these designs can be in either 'white (Platinum) or yellow gold'.

  The colour of this disk could be in luxurious "Pink Gold".

  I personally like 'shared claw' settings, as this gives less metal being shown.

 This is the very 'lucky triple 7' in the gambling writing of numbers.

 

  Always keep the colours that you choose 'uniform'. Buying Emeralds is a very difficult task as well as setting them, I know this from past experience.

 When you are setting stones always have an extra supply in case of 'breakage'. I'd even suggest using your millimetre gauge constantly for size accuracy.

  I hope that you enjoyed these varieties of patterns. My previous essay shows more designs as my CAD operator kept giving me more patterns to use.

 

New video worth viewing on "GRAVER SHAPING".

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPVXSJjmaqc

  Here is a very important video lasting 15 minutes, it is about "Graver Shaping". This video was filmed at the "Ganoksin" offices many years ago and I just located this video and had the video link repaired.

"Rio Grande" and "Ganoksin" were instrumental in putting all of the graphics, text & spoken words together for this film.

 Many of my own photos were 'edited & spliced' into this film to make it even more appealing.

(If you are having any problems in not being able to access the video. I suggest that you retype this video link exactly as shown above).