Do you use a PIN VISE? => 11 photos

 Many diamond setters use a 'pin vise', do you? Here are photos and many variations of them.

 This particular pin-vise is a combination of two pices that I joined together. (Don't laugh) The handle was actually a "furniture leg" that I found in a hardware store and the "vise-clamp" was what I saw in a tool store.

 REMEMBER, many unusual tools could be seen in other sources. 

  This pin-vise that was seen jewellery supply store has smooth inside jaws and is great for holding delicate jewellery without leaving any marks.

 This is my original "Pin-Vise" that really has pins in it, and is designed to hold anything. 

I've fashioned the tip of this vise to hold mini-earring studs.

 

 These two pins were brass-soldered and had little grooves cut into them. These grooves will eventually hold earring-studs, just below the 4-claw setting.

 

   This combination of 'vise parts' gives sufficient clearance from the peice of jewellery from being bent or....ruined.

 This 'extended Pin-Vise' prevents the constant need of shellac on most of the unusual parts of this brooch.

 I drilled wide grooves into each pin to hold coins, but not endangering the 'face of any wide or thick coin'.

 This is how each brass-pin looks after the modifications. These pins can be adjusted to hold any ultra-wide ornament (as seen above) down to a ultra-small piece of jewellery.

  I will only have a maximum of 4 pins. With these holes I can now change where the pins can be placed.

  I can now rotate even a circular Pave' setting. The brass-pins are designed to hold this circular pin from the inside, instead of the outside. Don't tighten the brass tightening-screw, as they will still leave marks in the metal.

 I'm gently tightening the metal circle, then when the stone setting has been completed, I can again gently rotate the circle once again.

Many times shellac is not wanted, here is one of those times.

MJSA (reprint) "Why darken the HSS bur?" => 3 photos.

 This is the MJSA page and drawing prepared by Ms. Shawna Kulpa and her staff. Thank you everyone for your time.

I wanted to make sure that all sections of this one page were easy to read, I copied it in multiple areas.

 

You want BEADS? => 12 (beaded) photos

You want BEADS? WOW, have I got BEADS for you?

 This one Onglet graver #2, was fashioned to make hundreds of beads. On the bottom of the blade, the sharp point was removed and made ready to be used again.

  

   I saw this necklace with this round disk with ??? diamonds.

 My #2 Onglete graver was carefully re-designed to be used specifically as a 'Bead Raiser'.

 For tight spots on the disk, I created and used 3 gravers all with different widths.

 With very tight spots on the ring, I preferred a graver with #1 Onglete width.

  On this unusual pendant, the stone setter chose beads with no set pattern.

 With the largest selection of gemstones, I placed all with one pattern. "Here, there and everywhere".

 For the smallest stones, I decided to set them in between the largest.

 I kept all of these round burs well within range for the drilling & spacing for the remaining stones. (this was not an easy task)

 Except for the two larger stones on my bench-peg, every stone got to be used.

 After I set every stone with 4 beads, I then placed beads in between the remaining stones. I didn't do any metal cutting inside where the stones lay. "Beads were eveywhere to be seen."

 IF YOU KNOW THE NUMBER OF STONES, you can start counting how many beads were formed.  Remember that number. THEN 4 beads per stone. Interesting calculations?

  This would be a fantastic project for anyone, of any level of jewellery crafting. Remember, if there any spaces, fill up all of the spaces with BEADS.  HAVE FUN AND ENJOY!

HSS "Reshaping" burs (Review) =>12 photos

 This is one of the helpful lessons that I can show you. How can you recut your HSS metal cutting bur?

 The initials HSS refers to "High Speed Steel" metal", this specialized cutting bur is not like the "Carbide" (softer steel) that you often see here.

 These edges of the teeth are badly worn and need of repair.

 

 You can see are the many HSS burs that I've been recutting. The size of them don't make any difference in the refurbishing process.

 These burs are commonly known as 'bearing cutters' or "156C", but they can't be repaired.

These are ALL 'CARBIDE BUR' CUTTERS.

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 No matter the metal strength, burs will tend to get worn down after being in contact with numerous alloys. The burs tend to be dollar expensive, the only technique in saving the cost is to RECUT them yourself.

 What I do is to mark each tooth, this simple action lets me know which tooth has being 'touched'.

 I ONLY TOUCH THE CUTTING AREAS, not the whole bur.

  In this close-up photo,  these teeth are again ready to do some interesting bezel cutting.

  THESE BUR TEETH ARE ROUNDED and not good anymore!!!

 These 'inked teeth' have been repaired too far away from the actual cutting areas. This is exactly why I colour the teeth.

  The Corundum repairing wheel is touching EXACTLY where it should be. Be careful that your hand doesn't shake, lest these teeth get ruined in this delicate reshaping process.

 

Finished BEZELS => 5 Bezels

 It's not too often that I find it necessary not to write anything. But here it is, all of these rings are with completed Bezels.

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Oval Bezels => 5 photos

THERE IS ONLY ONE STYLE OF BUR TO USE and that is a "HIGH SPEED BUR". Why?

The cutting teeth are spaced further apart, than the '156C' teeth.

The HSS teeth cut deeper and allows for excellent cutting action.

 It is best to select a round bur that is the same 'girdle width' and run that bur where the stone will sit.

 When the stone is finally sitting as planned, then the process of stone setting will commence. If you find that the stone is NOT SITTING WELL, what is then happening?

1) The Girdle is thicker than drilled.

2) The Pavillion is deeper and it won't sit into the Bezel.

3) The Metal that allows the stone to sit in between the Half-Bezel        should be carved further.

4) The length of the stone is preventing access to the Bezel.

5) The Table-Facet should be no higher than the Bezel wall.

 

This photo explains what we are looking for!

With an Onglete graver it's best to Bright-Cut the inner Bezel-Wall.

                                                               

                                          "FINISHED"