How do you 'hand polish' your graver? => 17 photos

 No matter the length of the graver, new or old, each one has to be "thoroughly" refurbished. But how do these steel blades get cleaned? 

 This essay might seem repetitious to some readers, but there comes a time in our pursuit of quality Diamond Setting where perfection is adamant.

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 This rough looking graver will be on it's way in being a high quality metal cutting blade. Let me show you how this will occur. 

 

 1) =>As there is a very slight discolouration of the metal near the point, I wouldn't be too concerned. This is caused by the (gentle) heating during initial shaping process on the grinding wheel. We will remove this colouring, later in this cleaning process.

2) => The first step in "hand polishing" will be using the rough "Emery Paper" of #240 grit. This is the first of many stages.

 

3) => These nicely shaped gravers are 'always' highly polished and maintained regardless of their length. 

4)=> Supposing that you need a certain graver at a moments notice, are you going to spend extra time repolishing that graver?

These are the 'workhorses' at my bench.

5) => I will number every polishing wooden board without any guessing of which grit of paper is which. Time is of the essence.

6) =>Here is the close-up of the Emery paper of #240 git. You will notice the darkened (black) colour and the residue of my soft  pencil that I use to reduce the texture of the paper. Thus making this paper to be equivalent to a (modified) #300+ grit.

 7) =>The (2nd) next grade of paper is #400 grit. You will notice that the granules on the paper are now closer knit.

7) =>This is to be the second of two grades named "Emery Grade Papers." 

8)=> These are not repeated photos in this essay, but when we are dealing with two sides of a graver, thus, 2 sides must be shown.

9) =>There is always a 'DOWNWARD PRESSURE' applied to the gravers.

  10)=> The "hand polishing technique" is applied mainly to the tip of the graver, nowhere else!

 11) => For every photo of the polishing process, the polishing process is kept mainly to the tip.

12) =>The sequence of graver polishing must be always maintained. NEVER JUMP FROM #240 TO A #600 grit.

 13) => In these two photos on #240 grit paper. I'm showing one side and then the opposite side.

14) => On the Onglet graver, there is a rounded shape, remember to make sure that the polishing is not flat. All sides and angles MUST BE THOROUGHLY TOUCHED. 

15) => Hand-polish only the 'front portion', where my finger is shown.

16) => On every wooden board there will be two 'pencil rubbed' sections, Therefore, you you will have literally 'two boards of papers' on one. Good idea?

 Many photos have been used in this essay, this might have been repetitious, but this technique has to be thoroughly explained.

 

What can your gravers do after being highly polished? => 12 photos

This was a FLAT plate only 60 minutes ago. 

   Here are photos of gravers under a 200x power microscope. This is AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN (manually) "PAPER POLISHED".

 Many of the gravers appear to have blemishes, but we are not writing about defects.

 These fine shaped gravers have just one purpose and that is to hand-cut intricate designs into metal. (These blades are not assisted by any power cutting machines.)

 The highly polished surfaces at the side, or bottom are where the ultimate designs originate from.

  This technique is aptly named "Pre-Cutting", as all of the metal cutting or carving is done long before any Diamond Setting has been initiated.

It is much easier to get the graver tip into areas where the pattern originates. If the gemstone is resting in the metal, there wouldn't be any room to engrave.

 Always keep your blades highly polished. No matter the shape of the graver, as many patterns need to be cut once. 

1) The initial outline cutting acts as a guide for the next two stages. It is named "Rough-Cutting". The ultra thin graver of Onglet #1 acts as guide for the following steps.

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2) This secondary technique is named 'Pre-Cutting' as all of the metal carving is done before any stones are set. The deeper cutting will be using an Onglet #2.

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3) This final stage is the most attractive it is called "Bright-Cutting". The cutting blades could be either a Flat or Highly polished Onglet graver #2.

 There is no way any metal cutting of any kind when there is gemstone interfering with the movement of the graver blade.

In this one photo are 3 steps of the graver cutting. Interesting?

 In this one photo displays the metal being 'moved' over the gemstone. This occurred after the metal cutting has been completed.

 This is the sole reason why "Pre-Cutting' should be attempted FIRST. Your graver now has ample room to navigate around the space where stone will be sitting,

  The 10 Rubies have now been set and all is remaining is to 'Burnish' the beads. Can you imagine what would it be like if the metal cutting was left to the last?

 

These are "Gerry's, EXTREMELY DIFFICULT gravers" => 11 photos

 About 65 years ago, a remarkable Diamond Setter taught me how to fashion pieces of steel into tools to create jewellery. "Stan Levine, (z"l) was that man. What you are seeing now are the results of his time and patience with me! 

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 From these simple tools, exquisite jewellery has been created. From these 3 tutorial essays, YOU TOO can create some wonderful patterns.

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"The Rate of Difficulty" in creating these delicately fashioned blades is 15, out of 10. As this takes many long months of training to learn how to create them. (I know this for a fact).

 This basic graver was carefully fashioned to cut intricate lines in metal. You can see how highly polished all of my gravers are fashioned. There are no 'rough' spots to be seen anywhere.

 The number "N4/0" refers to the extremely fine width of the blade.

  For my preliminary 'rough cutting', I will keep a few of my blades somewhat thickened. The reason is that I need to create basic patterns in the metal. I will even start to create wider cuts buy leaning the graver to one side.

  With a very thin blade, I will accentuate the new pattern by 'digging deeper'. As this will allow me to use a FLAT graver with added emphasis on the new intricate pattern.

 

  This is a thin shaped FLAT GRAVER. This blade will now get into all the fine areas needed for exquisite patterns & designs. I have no problems in using such a thin blade, as a thin blade is what is necessary in certain metal-carving circumstances.

  When I'm using a 'roughing cutting' blade, the need is not always to make a smooth cut, but to make these cuts, DEEP.

 You will notice that this blade is thick and semi-polished. The number #2 refers to the width, or thickness of this blade.

 There are instances where a thick blade is required, then I will keep the blade THICK. On this particular blade, I will give it a gentle shine.

THESE FOUR PATTERNS WERE NOT EASY TO CREATE!

(These patterns were not using any CAD, only my gravers).

This is a "2-Bead" setting (minus the stone)

 

   Do you see why I used both wide and thin gravers with a Flat blade.

  This was originally a flat plate with no claws, anywhere!!!

This is named "Fish-Tail" setting, this was not easy to create. I used a wide Onglette and Flat gravers.

 

  This pattern is named "Cut-Down". My FLAT graver was used extensively in creating this (insanely difficult) design.

(Here are a few metal cutting examples)

What happens when you rub a soft-core pencil into your "Polishing Paper"? => 6 photos

 As this is my # 881 tutorial essay, I'd like to have this opportunity in reviewing a series of important essays. They will appear to be repetitive, but are so important to all levels of Diamond Setting.

 This is the first of many essays dealing with the texture, or grit of   the 'Polishing Papers'. I will display the techniques that will increase the grit of your polishing paper, at least 75%. 

 This cost will be an estimated $5.00 and this is for a new 'soft core pencil' (as being shown) these can be bought at any hardware store. These pencils will last for 24+ MONTHS (or more).

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 Technique #1) I use a soft shaft pencil to give me greater access to the 'rubbing action' on the desired paper.

Technique #2) What I do is to create a 45degree angle to the soft lead, thus giving me a wider exposure to the paper.

Technique #3) THE PENCIL LEAD MUST NOT BE TOO HARD, why not? The pencil lead must rub along the surface of the paper and NOT TEAR INTO THE FRESH PAPER.

Technique #4) If you tear into paper, that area will be deemed difficult to use in the future. JUST APPLY GENTLE PRESSURE TO THE PAPER AT ALL TIMES.

  When you are looking for these pencils, always ask the attendant for the 'softest core, pencil' available.

 This #600 paper will be quickly increased to an estimated #900+ grit at no extra cost to you.

  Technique #5) Don't rub everywhere on the paper surface, just where the "graver modification" will take place. 

Technique #6) Kindly apply a 'gentle rubbing' at areas where your graver will touch.

    The next essay will be about the actual graver polishing.

When should you wear (protective) Gloves & Glasses? => 12 photos

 These are the 'protective vinyl gloves' that will protect your fingers and hand also during the many applications of cleaning using a cloth polishing wheel.

 This is also very important in using your 'bench grinder'. You have no idea how deeply the 'grinding compounds' will easily embed themselves into your skin. ( OUCH !)

These come in "Right and Left" gloves, which makes it easier to put on and use.

During the earlier stages of shaping a graver, there will be an awful amount of metal being created.

These gloves are NOT FOR DECORATION, BUT THEY ARE FOR YOUR SAFETY.

 These large amounts of steel are 100% dangerous to your eyes, fingers and other parts of your hands.

 You can easily see the fiery shards of metal being released from the steel shaft.

 GET THE GLOVES ON TO YOUR HANDS, AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

 This is the delicate aspect of graver shaping. Your gloves need to be tight on your fingers at all times.

IF YOUR GLOVE HAS A HOLE IN IT, THROW IT AWAY!!!! If the glove has any holes in it, it is deemed USELESS and DANGEROUS TO USE.

                     =>EXTREMELY IMPORTANT <=

 PLEASE USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES, AS SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET YOUR EYES CLOSER TO THE ROTATING EMERY WHEEL. 

 I won't say what could happen next, but it isn't pleasant.

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 If sometime in the near future you need to have an "MRI" at your hospital.

YOU MUST INFORM THE TECHNITIONS THAT YOUR EYES HAVE BEEN CLOSE TO STEEL POWDERS.

 If you don't inform them and the MRI starts, the steel will get "removed" out of your eyes at 40 MPH and you could...(don't ask)..! It isn't nice to read.)

=>Google: "The Dangers of Steel in an MRI".

 Footnote: The dangers of metal dust in your body.

 In Toronto, Canada 4 months ago, a fellow didn't tell the MRI operators that he was wearing a large and heavy 18kt gold chain. The machine was then activated: guess what happened? He was instantly killed by the chain, as it cut through his neck.

 You might consider using these "NITRILE" gloves for the rough metal shaping. I suggest using a protective glove for those rough beginnings of metal shaping.

 Even these cloth gloves have a layer of protection molded onto the surface during the initial stages of being created.

   My email address is: gerrylewy18@gmail.com