These are "Gerry's, EXTREMELY DIFFICULT gravers" => 11 photos

 About 65 years ago, a remarkable Diamond Setter taught me how to fashion pieces of steel into tools to create jewellery. "Stan Levine, (z"l) was that man. What you are seeing now are the results of his time and patience with me! 

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 From these simple tools, exquisite jewellery has been created. From these 3 tutorial essays, YOU TOO can create some wonderful patterns.

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"The Rate of Difficulty" in creating these delicately fashioned blades is 15, out of 10. As this takes many long months of training to learn how to create them. (I know this for a fact).

 This basic graver was carefully fashioned to cut intricate lines in metal. You can see how highly polished all of my gravers are fashioned. There are no 'rough' spots to be seen anywhere.

 The number "N4/0" refers to the extremely fine width of the blade.

  For my preliminary 'rough cutting', I will keep a few of my blades somewhat thickened. The reason is that I need to create basic patterns in the metal. I will even start to create wider cuts buy leaning the graver to one side.

  With a very thin blade, I will accentuate the new pattern by 'digging deeper'. As this will allow me to use a FLAT graver with added emphasis on the new intricate pattern.

 

  This is a thin shaped FLAT GRAVER. This blade will now get into all the fine areas needed for exquisite patterns & designs. I have no problems in using such a thin blade, as a thin blade is what is necessary in certain metal-carving circumstances.

  When I'm using a 'roughing cutting' blade, the need is not always to make a smooth cut, but to make these cuts, DEEP.

 You will notice that this blade is thick and semi-polished. The number #2 refers to the width, or thickness of this blade.

 There are instances where a thick blade is required, then I will keep the blade THICK. On this particular blade, I will give it a gentle shine.

THESE FOUR PATTERNS WERE NOT EASY TO CREATE!

(These patterns were not using any CAD, only my gravers).

This is a "2-Bead" setting (minus the stone)

 

   Do you see why I used both wide and thin gravers with a Flat blade.

  This was originally a flat plate with no claws, anywhere!!!

This is named "Fish-Tail" setting, this was not easy to create. I used a wide Onglette and Flat gravers.

 

  This pattern is named "Cut-Down". My FLAT graver was used extensively in creating this (insanely difficult) design.

(Here are a few metal cutting examples)

What happens when you rub a soft-core pencil into your "Polishing Paper"? => 6 photos

 As this is my # 881 tutorial essay, I'd like to have this opportunity in reviewing a series of important essays. They will appear to be repetitive, but are so important to all levels of Diamond Setting.

 This is the first of many essays dealing with the texture, or grit of   the 'Polishing Papers'. I will display the techniques that will increase the grit of your polishing paper, at least 75%. 

 This cost will be an estimated $5.00 and this is for a new 'soft core pencil' (as being shown) these can be bought at any hardware store. These pencils will last for 24+ MONTHS (or more).

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 Technique #1) I use a soft shaft pencil to give me greater access to the 'rubbing action' on the desired paper.

Technique #2) What I do is to create a 45degree angle to the soft lead, thus giving me a wider exposure to the paper.

Technique #3) THE PENCIL LEAD MUST NOT BE TOO HARD, why not? The pencil lead must rub along the surface of the paper and NOT TEAR INTO THE FRESH PAPER.

Technique #4) If you tear into paper, that area will be deemed difficult to use in the future. JUST APPLY GENTLE PRESSURE TO THE PAPER AT ALL TIMES.

  When you are looking for these pencils, always ask the attendant for the 'softest core, pencil' available.

 This #600 paper will be quickly increased to an estimated #900+ grit at no extra cost to you.

  Technique #5) Don't rub everywhere on the paper surface, just where the "graver modification" will take place. 

Technique #6) Kindly apply a 'gentle rubbing' at areas where your graver will touch.

    The next essay will be about the actual graver polishing.

When should you wear (protective) Gloves & Glasses? => 12 photos

 These are the 'protective vinyl gloves' that will protect your fingers and hand also during the many applications of cleaning using a cloth polishing wheel.

 This is also very important in using your 'bench grinder'. You have no idea how deeply the 'grinding compounds' will easily embed themselves into your skin. ( OUCH !)

These come in "Right and Left" gloves, which makes it easier to put on and use.

During the earlier stages of shaping a graver, there will be an awful amount of metal being created.

These gloves are NOT FOR DECORATION, BUT THEY ARE FOR YOUR SAFETY.

 These large amounts of steel are 100% dangerous to your eyes, fingers and other parts of your hands.

 You can easily see the fiery shards of metal being released from the steel shaft.

 GET THE GLOVES ON TO YOUR HANDS, AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

 This is the delicate aspect of graver shaping. Your gloves need to be tight on your fingers at all times.

IF YOUR GLOVE HAS A HOLE IN IT, THROW IT AWAY!!!! If the glove has any holes in it, it is deemed USELESS and DANGEROUS TO USE.

                     =>EXTREMELY IMPORTANT <=

 PLEASE USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES, AS SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET YOUR EYES CLOSER TO THE ROTATING EMERY WHEEL. 

 I won't say what could happen next, but it isn't pleasant.

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 If sometime in the near future you need to have an "MRI" at your hospital.

YOU MUST INFORM THE TECHNITIONS THAT YOUR EYES HAVE BEEN CLOSE TO STEEL POWDERS.

 If you don't inform them and the MRI starts, the steel will get "removed" out of your eyes at 40 MPH and you could...(don't ask)..! It isn't nice to read.)

=>Google: "The Dangers of Steel in an MRI".

 Footnote: The dangers of metal dust in your body.

 In Toronto, Canada 4 months ago, a fellow didn't tell the MRI operators that he was wearing a large and heavy 18kt gold chain. The machine was then activated: guess what happened? He was instantly killed by the chain, as it cut through his neck.

 You might consider using these "NITRILE" gloves for the rough metal shaping. I suggest using a protective glove for those rough beginnings of metal shaping.

 Even these cloth gloves have a layer of protection molded onto the surface during the initial stages of being created.

   My email address is: gerrylewy18@gmail.com

Handpiece Repair Service

Hello my Blog friends. 

 If your handpiece is requiring repair or servicing, there is only one person you should contact and that is "Charles Stuart". I've dealt with him before and he knows his profession.
 Please use my name as a reference, I derive no income from any advertising of his company. Gerry Lewy.

What length should your graver be in your hand? =>9 photos

 I've had a tough time 2 weeks of thinking of a new tutorial-essay, then my brain answered the call. "What length should the graver and handle be while being used?"

 In my extensive 22,000 photo library, I've 'found a few photos' that assist me in my teaching & explaining.

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 The thumb, forefinger and middle finger grasp the shaft of the handle. The remaining 2 fingers actually hold the balance of the wooden handle. This alone culminates in a 'very secure holding pattern'.

  You can now easily see where the fingers are aligned.

   The length of the cutting area of the blade is essential in knowing where the fingers should be placed.

 (I found the actual length just a few moments ago). The exposed length of the graver is 149.9 millimeters.

The metal carving area should not exceed 23.19 millimeters.

The exposed graver blade while it is in the handle, should not be any longer than seen in this photograph.

This is the answer to the question of this tutorial essay.

 For safety reasons, I suggest wearing a protective 'thumb-guard'. There is a great tendency to rest the sharp blade against your tender skin and cause cuts.

 

 The 'pointing finger' should rest against the graver as seen here.

 The complete exposed graver should be seen as in this photo.

  Even prior to the shaping of the graver, the "Graver Identification Nameplate" should not extend any further than seen here.

 This is your key to deciding how long the exposed graver will be, agree?

 I hope this tutorial essay gave you a better decision in deciding how long the graver should be. (Gerry Lewy)

What tools are used in Diamond Setting? => 19 photos

 The list of tools that are used can be very extensive. For example, I'm only listing some of the tools that I presently use.

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1) "Hand held, Pin Vise". This prevents the need of using shellac.

This is also great in holding coins for engraving.

2) These 'bent plier jaws' are fantastic for tightening gemstones in awkward positions.

3) There are many little brushes you can buy instead of your tool supply shop. I look through 'cosmetic stores' for delicate brushes, not to mention 'paint stores'. Three of these coloured brushes were bought in a dental supply store.

4) These strange looking handles can be the best graver handles that were created. These will allow the setter to 'extend the life' of every graver that is used.

These are 3 clamps of various styles, but they are always useful for gemstone setting. My favourite is named the "Inside Ring Clamp".

This "Inside Ring Clamp" tightens the ring so very TIGHTLY.

                                                        

Here are two tools that are so very important. The "Separating Disk" is extremely useful in repairing the HSS bur teeth.

                                                       

 These files come in two grades of teeth, #2 and #4 grit. (Please excuse the rust & dirt)

These 7 setting-tools are self-explanatory.

These "Bent" claws are great in what they can do in awkward situations. The 'hand and fingers' are no longer being twisted.

  I have 10 pliers and all are useful during my intense Diamond Setting projects.

                            =>This is my own invention <=

 Get a large round bur and place 1/3rd of the bur against the rotating emery wheel of your bench grinder, as shown. Keep this in a beaker of cold water during the grinding process.

 What you now have is a very new metal cutting tool. It works 100% for making a seat in a Tube Setting for Cabochon stones.

=> (My second invention) <=

 This photo shows the 'gripping' teeth on those 'Bent' plier jaws. I used a 'Separating Wheel' to grind grooves in the jaws.

 Pumice Wheels come in two grits;  #180 & #1,000grit. The #180 are the "Medium" texture, while the PINK #1,000 grit is the "Fine" texture.

  Either wheel come in a "Tapered" or "Flat" configuration.

  These are the "Snap-On" Medium grit, Emery wheels.

These three handpieces are "our workhorses" in our bench.

=>My Third Invention<=

   Here you can see the 'Mini, 2-Pin' that I created just for earring studs.

  During your days and years at your own bench, you too will find some great ideas of new tools. If they suite you, then use them just to make your time at the bench easier, as I have been doing.

 There are so many tools for gemstone setting, I couldn't display them all. 

REMEMBER, improvise and be creative. It's so interesting setting diamonds & gemstones, agree?