HammerIng & Setting an Oval stone #2, (complete lesson) => 27 photos

    OVAL STONE SETTING JUST FOR YOUR BENCH!

 This is the exact hammer hitting sequence to avoid crooked oval stones.

 (self explanatory)

 Wrong hammer to use on these delicate rings.

  Be careful as the size of the hammer head covers the viewing while hitting.

 Keep the delicate Culet on the mandrel curve.

  Always select the right size of stone for the bezel.

 Don't use a 156C Carbide bur. I prefer the HSS 90degree angle bur. The reason being that the teeth are deeper and cut more into the metal.

 Some setters use a round bur, but the cutting doesn't adhere to the shape of the Pavilion of the stone.

Under closer scrutiny, it appears that this stone IS CROOKED. 

  The next problem is to REMOVE IT, IMMEDIATELY

 When setting an Oval stone, make sure that the Culet is not touching the metal mandrel underneath. Keep the stone well within the groove, as seen here!

 I couldn't allow this ring be completed, as it is not aligned into bezel evenly.

  FINALLY, I found a ring that the stone is 'well set'.

 Keep that Reciprocating Hammer head from touching the stone.

 You should 'move' the bezel metal closer to the stone. Never pound the metal onto the Facets as there could be problems further into stone setting.

 To initially remove any rough casting marks, you should use a #2 grit large file to clean any worrisome remnants of casting.

 Please use an Onglette graver #2 graver to carefully clean the inner wall of the bezel.

 If you use a Flat graver, you could have 'faceting' in the metal when the graver hits every facet of the stone.

 Here you really should use a large file of #4 grit, to file the hammered surface.

It's 'Pumice Wheel' time here. You should use #180 grit for a start.

For finishing, instead of using the cloth-wheel. Kindly use a #1,000 grit, PINK wheel.

 To remove any rough areas on the shank, or hammer hitting areas by accident. I'd use a "MEDIUM" grade "Snap-On" Emery wheel, just to clean up the ring in general.

 

 Last, but not least, inspect every detail of this ring to remove any casting errors.

How to select hammer anvils for Oval settings! (#1) => 5 photos

 Here are two rings that have a problem. Their problem is that the Culets do protude from the bottom of the bezel casing.

To overcome this problem, is to place the culet in line with the mandrel groove.

 These are the hammer anvils that I am presently using. Here are old shortened files that easily fit into my hand & fingers.

Would you believe that there are even 'concrete nails' that are great for grasping. I can shape each of these anvils to my ongoing needs.

 These three anvils are selected for their shape and length.

 Of the three hammers, only one will be the 'winner', that is the 84.9 gram tool.

 Never let the tip of the anvil get too close to inside rim of the bezel. If that happens...."Good Bye, stone!"😢

 

Hammering Flush and Bezel settings => 8 photos

 In using a hammer on the hammer anvil, is is always necessary to tap in 4 (four) corner spots to hold the stone tight. THEN =>

 When this is completed, work the 'hammer-anvil touching' around the remainder of the curved bezel. 

 Where there is a shallow recess of the ring bezel, keep the stone as low as possible.

 You can see the flat areas on the RED stone, this is why you must ignore the overall depth on the ring. ALWAYS aim for the 'side' areas of the long ring.

 You can now see the (gentle) flat surfaces appearing on the ring.

 PLEASE, don't let the hammer tip touch the girdle of ANY stone.

 

  Always maintain the required '4 spots' for each new stone in it's setting hole.

 Here in this repeated photo is where the hammer is starting to hit the first of four spots that will tighten a major stone.

 Always be mindful of where the hammer-face is hitting the bezel wall.

 

  It is good to rest your ring on a solid base for hammering. Wooden ring clamp is nice, but it absorbs all of the 'hiting action'.

 On a more solid base such as a ring mandrel, is the most reliable holding tool to use. 

 If there is a culet of the stone protruding underneath (as shown) place that stone where the mandrel-curve is located.

 Have we covered all of the necessary techniques of Flush and Bezel setting? I truly think so. Gerry Lewy!

 

Hammered "Flush" Settings => 5 photos

 This is the design of Bezel we are looking for. The whole ring top surface should be nicely curved with NOT ONE FLAT SURFACE 

=>ANYWHERE <=

                  ==========================================

                      DRILLING                 FITTING THE         HAMMERING 

                                                          STONE                 THE METAL                                                                                                                           

  As you can see there are no visible signs of hammering to be seen.

What does a "Bright-Cut Bezel" look like? => 4 photos

 After the preliminary 'surface filing & cleaning' has been completed, a very careful method is now to be started. 

 The next process is to thoroghly Bright-Cut the inner-curve bezel.

                         

 Pumice Wheel 'smoothing' is next on the adgenda. Never let any 'cleaning implements' interfere with the 'inner shiny bezel'.

 In previous photographic essays, I gave detailed explanations on how to use the Pumice wheels.

 

 This is the (best) diagram that I've created in showing this delicate Bright-Cutting process. 

        =>Always examine the tip of the Flat graver <=

 If  there are any abrasions on the tip of the Flat graver surface, then those defects will be quickly transferred to the shiny surface.

 => A few words of caution is not to file the surface with an Emery wheel. The thickness of the overall metal must never be reduced.

 On a curved surface, this 'metal thickness' must remain the same all around the 'hammered bezel' frame.

 I sincerely hope that this tutorial essay put some additional light onto this "Bright-Cut Bezel" topic...regards! Gerry Lewy.
 

Cluster-style, mini-claws! => 6 photos (repeated instructions))

The very first thing that should be done is to use a large BUD bur and open the holes wider. (See the photo below).

  A large 'bud-shaped bur' is used here to give more access to the Pavillion of the stone.

 These specially 'bent plier tips' can be bought from your tool supply company. DON'T ATTEMPT TO ALTER THE SHAPE YOURSELF.

=> You can now hold the plier-handle FLAT, while the tips are created to grasp the claw-tip in a VERTICAL position <=

 This position will give your hand a constant 'relaxed' grip.

 

1) It is ALWAYS recommended to set the centre stone first.

2) The next set would be the 8 stones shown below.

 With the "Bud bur" and then the "Bearing Cutter" (156C), any stone will be set with no problems.

 Use an 'undercutting bur', aka "156C" to create a 'seat' for the girdle of the stone.

 In this photo you can easily see that there are numerous spaces surrounding this stone. These 'spaces' will never allow the stone to ever sit tight.,