How to 'file & trim' your claws, plus more setting facts => 23 photos

  Let's suppose that you have just set an expensive diamond. The next process is to 'file and trim' these claws, what are the rules that should be followed?

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 When your diamond has been set, always be sure not to leave the claws higher than the 'Table Facet'.

 The main problem here is that the centre stone was set too low!

 If the claw tips are higher than the Table Facet, this will grip the claw tip and loosen the stone. Also known as "Woops"!!!

     These 4 claws need to be filed down a.s.a.p. Here is something that no one has ever mentioned in jewellery magazines. Why not?

When the centre stone has been set, ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THE 'CULET FACET' IS SITTING IN THE CENTER OF THE CLAWS.

How do you know at a moments notice what grit of the file is it? I mark each of my files with **** for a 4 grit, or ** for a 2 grit. If there is space...as shown, I'll use numbers.

 If the claws are long in length and angled, keep the claws as shown.

 Pre-Trim the casting and remove any extra unwanted metal. When the stone is in, it'll be difficult to fix then.

  I always gently spread apart the claws, why is this done...NOW? This will give me extra space to insert my handpiece and cutting burs.

 I never leave my bench tray with an assortment of unwanted tools. I will then have only the necessary tools at my disposal.

 When the claws are over the Girdle Facets, trim the claws to match the angles of the stone.

 It's best not to have big lumps of metal on a delicate stone.. BLEND THE ANGLES AS WITH THE STONE, AGREE?

  File and trim the claws as they should be a 'part of the stone'.

 

 Don't leave one claw 'curved' as seen here. Remove the stone and straighten the claws...EQUALLY. 

 If this doesn't work, select a smaller stone.

   Pre-Polish all of the claws prior to stone-setting.

 When you are polishing after stone-setting look what remained? There is a little 'magnetic tumbled steel pin' stuck under the stone.

 Here is another example of the 'need to pre-polish everywhere', before any stones need to be set.

 

 When the Emerald has been set, it will be too late to polish the claws. I can see that many of the claws were improperly 'moved over' the stones.

 The 'Pink stone ring' has been correctly 'filed & trimmed'. Now compare that ring to the new casting on the right. 

  Always use a pumice wheel prior to any 'cloth wheel' polishing.

 NO CLOTH WHEELS CAN CLEAN THESE CLAWS. Always use your Pumice Wheels FIRST.

 

 Don't leave any of the claws resting on the stone like these, FILE THEM DOWN.

 Here you can see that the right corner claw is incorrectly trimmed, REPAIR IT NOW.

 As shown above, spread out the claws, as you will be needing much room to get your handpiece and other tools inside the claws.

 After an intense pre-polishing process has been completed, then and only then can you set your expensive gemstones.

What are the features of these claw-settings => 14 photo's

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 Here are detailed illustrations of "double-claw, 4-claw settings with screw-back posts".
 

 Here is the double-gallery of an Oval Cabochon stone similar to the pendant seen in the photo.

  This is a commonly used '4-claw setting' with a sturdy underneath post that are used for 1/2 carat engagment rings.

   This is a "V" shaped claw setting that is used primarily for "Princess-Cut" square diamonds.

 For a round stone, here are a pair of 'three-claw' earring studs.

 Here is my favourite claw setting for Marquise diamonds, why is this? 

This '6-claw head' will accomodate a Marquise stone that fits into the 'end claws'. I used this measuring as a reference when deciding which claw setting to purchase.

 If the stone didn't fit into the 'end claws'; I wouldn't purchase it.

                          

 This '6-claw, Marquise head' comes with it's own pre-shaped, end-claws that will be made easy for drilling for the stone.

The downside is that this head has little range of stones that can be used.

 

This double-bail has a double-basket for the Pear-Shape stone to sit.

                                       

                   

 This double-basket is for a large round pendant, also has a double- bail that is great for additional security. When polished, these pendants shine so very nicely.

       

 This very interesting pendant is used primarily for 'heart-shaped' stones.

 This "illusion setting" can be used in conjunction with smaller gemstones. The inside 4-claw settings sometimes come in white-gold, thus making the stones to look larger. 

 This particular claw setting is quite delicate to set. All of the security is resting at the joining of the 'pin to the lower basket'.

 Lastly, this earring is primarily used for smaller 'Princess-Cut' stones. Much care is needed when setting these little earring studs.

Which stones would be set FIRST, HOW & WHY?

 I haven't seen this ring in person, but my experience has taught me what I would do if I had to set these stones.

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 Which Channel-Set stones would you set first? Before you answer this question, think of the problems you might encounter & what "COULD HAPPEN".

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 1) I would layout the stones in a sequential order and place them on a wax plate. 

 2) Knowing that there are multiple rows of diamonds in different sections of this ring, much care is needed.  

3) The FIRST stones are the ones beside the FULL BEZEL setting.

4) Prepare the Bezel setting, but not the actual setting...yet!

5) Select your #156C (bearing cutter) bur & carve a seat for all the stones. Every one of these 'smallest stones' MUST BE SITTING AROUND THE BEZEL.

6) It is very important that the 'first small stones' are literally "against & touching" the Bezel wall.

7) All of the stones be NOW set & tightened in the Channels.

8) There must be NO SPACES in between any of the stones.

9) Set and secure the Centre stone into the Bezel.

10) Gently tighten all of stones with your 'Reciprocating Hammer'.

11) Use Pumice Wheels: #180 & #1,000 to smooth the metal.

12) Gently,'Tripoly & Rouge' the whole ring.

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     What "COULD HAPPEN" if you use short-cuts?

A) You might have different sizes of stones mixed in the Channels.

B) Some of the 'small stones' could be not sitting against the Bezel.

C) There COULD be spaces in between some of those stones.

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All of these '15 setting notes' were compiled by just looking at this one photo. Can you imagine if I had 2 photos?...:>)

What size of bur to set a "THICK Girdle" stone? => 10 photos.

 What is the best claw setting for a thick-girdle stone? As an experienced Diamond Setter, I primarily look for security of the stone being set. 

 In this essay, I will give you 'my choices' of the head and what claw shapes to avoid and why?

 For a wide-Girdle, there are many limitations in selecting a stone with those dimensions.

                                  Claw settings to avoid:

 'Decorative' and 'Trellis', why? These claws are so very thin and security could be a problem.

 Below is one of the 'best shaped' claws for a thick-girdle gemstone, why? The 'multi-claw' head still gives you the 'decorative' design, but the claws give you the opportunity in utilizing a thicker stone.

 Try to avoid a thin claw pattern, as security is lacking and the tendancy for a claw to move is quite possible.

 If you need a double or triple claw pattern, I'd stay with them.

 I designed this page with text & photos to demonstrate the setting of various claw configerations.

  I drew this (above) page many years ago, I had no idea that it would be used extensively in this particular essay.

 This enlarged diagram explains how a THICK girdle is prepared for setting.

 What size of bud bur is the best size? My answer will be that the thick girdle will sit easily in the claw, as shown.

 Remember; DON'T USE A ROUND BUR. Only use a tapered (Flame-Tip) bud bur and lay it on it's side and CUT ACROSS the WIDTH of the claw.

  How far down from the tip should this carving be? The 'bearing' groove should be no deeper than 1/3rd of height of the claw (as shown here).

 Lastly, => the diameter of the Bud Bur MUST be equal to the thickness of the Girdle.

Show 'us' what "Center Stone" claws look like. => 16 photos.

 These are the most common shapes of "center stone claws". There are other configurations, but these are the best in my estimation.

 From the drawings, here are the almost life-like drawings for you to appreciate.

 In this photo, the setter cut into metal with little care, as seen on the 'left claw'. On the 'right claw', shows the correct cutting. The curvature of the Pavilion-facet will nicely fit against the claws.

 Here are 4 styles of 'claw-tip' patterns. It's best to have a variety, in your inventory than to pick just one pattern for all of your rings.

 On this ring there are 8 claws to give additional support, even the claws are gingerly shaped for this expensive Asscher-Cut gemstone.

 On this photo, you can see 4 shapes of claws, each design is worthy of being used.

 This yellow setting will put a shade of metal into the stone. In return, it will give a yellow tint into the diamond.

 This ring has a  collection of small sized diamonds on EACH claw. I, as a Diamond Setter would set these small stones long before the large stone went in.

 I would also 'pre-cut' the centre-stone claw tips, as all that remains is to carefully place the large diamond into those claws.

 To avoid claws that will cover much of the beautiful gemstones. The designer and jeweller worked together 'as a team' to give harmony to the claws.

       Good Grief, what happened here?

 The client saw that there were 4 claws in need of repairing. The jeweller 'gently' removed the large center stone and decided to do full restoration on this well-worn engagement ring.

 The jeweller would then supply a new set of 4 claws. Basically, GET RID OF THE OLD POSTS!

 Just doing a simple & basic retipping, wouldn't do justice to the expensive diamond, agree?

 In mounting, an "Asscher-Cut" diamond need two things => SECURITY & SECURITY.

 In this ring, you need to have security in the 'claw basket' and security in the claws themselves.

 In these diagrams are where the multiple claws would be situated. A 'grouping of claws' should be placed  in close proximity on the "Kite Facets" as being shown.

This "Halo Setting" will make the centre stone look larger. All of the diamonds are to be set closely set with little, or no spaces. Thus giving the client a sight of wearing a larger diamond.

 These 'pointed claws' blend into the gemstone, thus avoiding a round piece of metal covering the stone.

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 On this 4-claw setting, I wanted to show what delicate filing can achieve on a simple claw setting.

1) The sides of each claw are shaped with parallel walls.

2) The back of each claw are trimmed into a half-round shape.

3) Here is MORE delicate shaping, I filed a straight across the front, I even "BRIGHT-CUT" the metal with a Flat graver after the trimming has been completed. I used a Triangular file with a #4 grit on every aspect of shaping the claws.

 

 My main task is to show 'quality' along with keeping 'security' at all times.

 Any jeweller or setter can set a diamond, but to create a masterpiece is what we are aiming for here!