Showing a completed "Full-Bezel Setting" => Review => 22 photos

  In this interesting tutorial essay, I'll be using only these basic hammers and files. 

This essay will only discuss 'AFTER' the stone has been placed into the round Tube Setting.

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 The smooth mirror-like image shows the hitting surface of this hammer as it is being reflected. There are no defects on the surface of the steel.

 If there were any defects on the hammer face, then those defects would be quickly transferred to the flat surfaces of the bezel.

               

In this photo, I'm guaging at what angle my hammer should be held at. You can easily see just where the 'contact' spot is.

 All of the hammering MUST BE ON A STEEL MANDREL. If it placed in a ring clamp, then the ring might just collapse under the hitting.

OPTIONS:

1) NEVER HIT THE BEZEL RIM ON THE TOP. 

2) Always have the hammer held at a 45 DEGREE ANGLE.

If you prefer a "hand-held" contact; DO NOT LET THE ANVIL TOUCH THE STONE.

When you are hammering the bezel FLAT, attempt to move the anvil TOWARDS the stone. BUT NEVER => NEVER let the Anvil touch the stone.

  This is the photo of the bezel after being flattened from the hitting.

This is just how the flatteded bezel looks after being moved over the stone.

This diagram explains in detail what is now being done.

 WHAT HAS TO BE DONE NOW?

These are the essential tools, for cleaning the Bezel.

               

 With using a FLAT #40 wide graver, it is advisable to cut around the inside of the bezel. 

This process is aptly named "Bright-Cutting".

Always keep the bezel width uniform. 

 These are the metal shavings that once were actually a part of the inside of the bezel.

I'm using a soft #4 cut Triangular file to clean the Bezel Rim.

 Here I'm finishing the cleaning with a Pumice Wheel of #1,000 grit. There is no 100% need to use any cloth wheel to polish the bezel rim. The cloth wheel will ruin the sharp edges of the new Bezel.

This "Snap On" "EMERY" Emery wheel will sufficiently clean any defects on the outside of the Bezel Wall.

 IT'S NOW READY TO BE THOROUGHLY CLEANED & POLISHED.

 

Marquise Ruby Stone Setting! => 14 photos

 Marquise shaped Rubies need to be carefully placed into a wedding band. You have two claws with two curved basket-settings to work on.

 To start the setting process, we need a ROUND bur that is the same size of the point of the Girdle of the stone.

  You need a BUD bur that will enlarge the pavilion shape of the bezel-setting. Carve around the deepest area of the stone.

 There must be another larger BUD bur that will curve the setting evenly from one claw post to the other.

 

 GENTLY carve the bezel setting as the shape of the stone must coincide with the metal frame.

 Place the Ruby into this setting and make sure that stone isn't moving around in the bezel.

 NOW, we can GENTLY press over the two claws, one at a time. Understand that these two claws will forever hold the stone in place.

 If the Rubies are of different sizes, then select the largest stones for the middle of the setting.

 Please makr sure that the stones are level and laying flat.

These end-claw-settings is where the smallest stones will be placed.

 

 Just make sure that ALL OF THE STONES ARE SECURE IN THE RING.

Please be sure that the claws are resting against & over the Ruby.

 Use your bud bur to clear away any unwanted metal at the post areas.

 Are all of the areas of the pavilian of equal angles to the stonw.

 

Diagrams & Pictures of "Gemstone Setting" => 17 photos.

This upper diagram gives you a good opportunity to see where the stone should seat. The lower diagram shows the incorrect position of the stone.

 The straight-sided bur is not conducive to a good setting position. But now compare the straight-edge to the lower diagram showing a seat for the Crown and Pavillion Facets. This stone-setting bur is a "High Speed Steel" bur which is fantastic just for this setting.

 In this diagram showing 5 positions of the drill and anvils, you can see how the metal is being 'moved gently' over girdle of the stone. I personally want to avoid the #2 & #3 methods, as there is too much effort in setting the stone.

Once that the metal has be lowered securely over the Girdle of the stone, what comes next? The answer is quite simple, I'd use my Onglette graver and cut inside the bezel...(as shown)!

 

What I did with this Oval stone, will be the same as what I will do to Tube Setting.

 You will instantly notice that the angles of the stone must be exactly the same to the ring.

                                       

  This simple diagram displays what a crooked stone actually looks like. The base of the Cabochon stone has being set incorrectly.

 The sides of the Bezel has too much metal covering the stone. It is advisable to lower the Bezel wall to the "Table Facet".

 The Bezel top shouldn't be too thick or too flat. The top of the wall should blend in with the curvature of the stone. This is a descretionary action based upon your ongoing experience.

                                                 

 Do not leave the tops of the walls of the Bezel FLAT.

 My hammer-head was weighed in at 85.0 grams. The Bezel wall must be in complete contact with the stone!!!

  Do not leave the inner wall of the Bezel 'untouched'. It must be Bright-Cut with your Onglette graver #2.

 Use your Pumice Wheel of #180 grit to smooth any hammer-hitting-indentations. The outside Bezel wall should be at least a 45degree angle.

 ALWAYS KEEP YOUR HAMMER-ANVIL LEANING AT 45 DEGREES. Avoid any contact with the delicate gemstone.

 Keep the Culet of the stone from touching the mandrel. Always have a groove in your mandrel.

In this diagram, you can see where there was my Bright-Cutting the inner-bezel wall and I trimmed the Bezel further.

  In this final photo, I chose to use a #1,000 grit FLAT-EDGE Pumice wheel. This decision avoided any cloth-wheel, hard buffing leading to a poor ring finish.

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