How to make-create a new "Beading Raising" tool => 10 photos

 This graver-making tool has been written on many ocassions, but never explaining how they were created.

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 The short length has nothing to do with its uses, but how it is created, is the important aspect to remember.

 I'll use a #3, Onglette graver, as it gives me the width for creating "stronger & wider" beads. I avoid using a CAD designed beads in this situation.

 In this specific photo, you can understand why some blades are remaining wide & thick.

 These were created for specific reasons, such as having larger beads to have them cover a wider surface over the edge of the gemstone.

  This is the #3, Onglette graver that can be bought at your tool supplier. 

 The skill is to create this thick blade into a (surgical) setting tool.

For 'thinner' beads, I'll use a #2, Onglette blade (as shown).

The bottom of the blade, (at it's front) MUST BE ROUNDED. I   will use a '#240 grit, Emery Paper' to sculpture the steel blade.

To create the correct angle and to have the graver-face to be exact at all times...use your oil-stone, but never the emery paper.

 

 The new bead will be designed to tightly hold the stone in place.

 If you see a 'ball of metal' sitting over the edge of the stone, then you've created the correct shape & size of a bead....=>Hooray!

 The 'tail of the corner beads' on a square face of the ring are shown here. 

 For the remaining beads, I'll use a (thinner) Onglette #2 to tightly secure the remaining stones. On the smaller stones is where these tightly fitting beads will be used and delicately placed.

 => Remember, not all new beads will be the same overall size.
Always have multiple sized Bead-Raisers at your bench.

You've just set both large 4-claw, Square & Round stones, WHAT NEXT? => 2 photos.

In this interesting photo, I use 2 steps of filing into one ring!

=>On the upper & lower left claws: is filed into shape with a Triangular file of #4 grit (smooth).

=> The shape is with  (1)semi-circular end (2) flat-front (3) two sides shaped equally parallel. 

=> I always "Bright-Cut" the (2) flat-front claw just to give it a smooth & shiny surface. I will use a FLAT #40 graver for this very delicate cutting. A cloth Polishing Wheel just can't do this careful finishing

 =>The alternate step, on a '4-claw head' is the 'Finishing', as shown here using a #77B, "Cup Bur."

 I will let the extra large, Cup-Bur actually allow the 'bur teeth' to do the precision shaping. When the bur is rotating, make sure that the bur itself is touching all around the tip of the claw.

 

 These claw tips are too high, but just for these display purposes, I've allowed the claws to be left higher than the Table Facet.

And you thought that just setting a Princess-Cut stone was easy?

How to 'file & trim' your claws, plus more setting facts => 23 photos

  Let's suppose that you have just set an expensive diamond. The next process is to 'file and trim' these claws, what are the rules that should be followed?

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 When your diamond has been set, always be sure not to leave the claws higher than the 'Table Facet'.

 The main problem here is that the centre stone was set too low!

 If the claw tips are higher than the Table Facet, this will grip the claw tip and loosen the stone. Also known as "Woops"!!!

     These 4 claws need to be filed down a.s.a.p. Here is something that no one has ever mentioned in jewellery magazines. Why not?

When the centre stone has been set, ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THE 'CULET FACET' IS SITTING IN THE CENTER OF THE CLAWS.

How do you know at a moments notice what grit of the file is it? I mark each of my files with **** for a 4 grit, or ** for a 2 grit. If there is space...as shown, I'll use numbers.

 If the claws are long in length and angled, keep the claws as shown.

 Pre-Trim the casting and remove any extra unwanted metal. When the stone is in, it'll be difficult to fix then.

  I always gently spread apart the claws, why is this done...NOW? This will give me extra space to insert my handpiece and cutting burs.

 I never leave my bench tray with an assortment of unwanted tools. I will then have only the necessary tools at my disposal.

 When the claws are over the Girdle Facets, trim the claws to match the angles of the stone.

 It's best not to have big lumps of metal on a delicate stone.. BLEND THE ANGLES AS WITH THE STONE, AGREE?

  File and trim the claws as they should be a 'part of the stone'.

 

 Don't leave one claw 'curved' as seen here. Remove the stone and straighten the claws...EQUALLY. 

 If this doesn't work, select a smaller stone.

   Pre-Polish all of the claws prior to stone-setting.

 When you are polishing after stone-setting look what remained? There is a little 'magnetic tumbled steel pin' stuck under the stone.

 Here is another example of the 'need to pre-polish everywhere', before any stones need to be set.

 

 When the Emerald has been set, it will be too late to polish the claws. I can see that many of the claws were improperly 'moved over' the stones.

 The 'Pink stone ring' has been correctly 'filed & trimmed'. Now compare that ring to the new casting on the right. 

  Always use a pumice wheel prior to any 'cloth wheel' polishing.

 NO CLOTH WHEELS CAN CLEAN THESE CLAWS. Always use your Pumice Wheels FIRST.

 

 Don't leave any of the claws resting on the stone like these, FILE THEM DOWN.

 Here you can see that the right corner claw is incorrectly trimmed, REPAIR IT NOW.

 As shown above, spread out the claws, as you will be needing much room to get your handpiece and other tools inside the claws.

 After an intense pre-polishing process has been completed, then and only then can you set your expensive gemstones.

What are the features of these claw-settings => 14 photo's

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 Here are detailed illustrations of "double-claw, 4-claw settings with screw-back posts".
 

 Here is the double-gallery of an Oval Cabochon stone similar to the pendant seen in the photo.

  This is a commonly used '4-claw setting' with a sturdy underneath post that are used for 1/2 carat engagment rings.

   This is a "V" shaped claw setting that is used primarily for "Princess-Cut" square diamonds.

 For a round stone, here are a pair of 'three-claw' earring studs.

 Here is my favourite claw setting for Marquise diamonds, why is this? 

This '6-claw head' will accomodate a Marquise stone that fits into the 'end claws'. I used this measuring as a reference when deciding which claw setting to purchase.

 If the stone didn't fit into the 'end claws'; I wouldn't purchase it.

                          

 This '6-claw, Marquise head' comes with it's own pre-shaped, end-claws that will be made easy for drilling for the stone.

The downside is that this head has little range of stones that can be used.

 

This double-bail has a double-basket for the Pear-Shape stone to sit.

                                       

                   

 This double-basket is for a large round pendant, also has a double- bail that is great for additional security. When polished, these pendants shine so very nicely.

       

 This very interesting pendant is used primarily for 'heart-shaped' stones.

 This "illusion setting" can be used in conjunction with smaller gemstones. The inside 4-claw settings sometimes come in white-gold, thus making the stones to look larger. 

 This particular claw setting is quite delicate to set. All of the security is resting at the joining of the 'pin to the lower basket'.

 Lastly, this earring is primarily used for smaller 'Princess-Cut' stones. Much care is needed when setting these little earring studs.