Why is a "156C" bur so very important? => 17 photos. ESSAY #1, of 2 posts

 Of all the intricate burs on the diamond setters bench, this one bur can do so much for your stone setting. Remember, don't get confused with the "HSS" bur, also known as "High Speed Steel".

 => The teeth of the Carbide Burs are so much closer than the HSS burs, as shown further below!

 The particular letter signifies that this bur 'C' is an acronym of Carbide Steel! This bur is also named 'bearing cutter', plus they come in 45, 70 & 90angles.

 Please be specific of your needs upon ordering from your suppliers, as mistakes could be costly for you.

 These '156' burs are made in many sizes from #005 all the way up to #070.

 What are their many uses? =>Channel Setting, Cluster Settings and preliminary Pave' Settings & 4-Claw Engagement Rings.

Please examine the 'closely knit group of teeth' on the Carbide bur.

 This thin (45degree angle) cutting edge bur is best for cutting 'claw bearings' only.
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 Here is a great example of the 90degree angle bur beside the two 45degree angle burs.

  This bur purposely cut a bearing on one side of the channel wall ONLY. This is used to cut a groove for the Girdle that will be created. I'll rotate the ring and prepare for 'another seat' on the opposite side.

 On a 'cluster style ring', the bottom of the bur will be prepared for the Pavillion of the stone. WHY?

 It is best to 'open' up the setting hole further with a round bur.  This will give the setter ample room to cut seats where necessary.

When using your rotating bur, keep the bur in a vertical position.

 When preparing to set any row of stones (as shown) it is required to drill THROUGH the metal and give more access to the Culets. 

 There is little, or no room for the polishing (used material) to escape.

The mini-stones were held together with greatest assistance of those 156C burs. 

 =>The selected bur size must never be the same as the stone. The "rule of choosing a bur", is it must be 3/4's of the stone.

  In this tray of burs I'm leaving the largest burs in a group all by themselves. The smallest 156C burs will be kept seperately. If I need even a smaller size of burs, I'll keep them in another tray.

 Enclosed in this bur tray are Genuine Rubies, my formidable task is to pick ONE bur out of many, that is 3/4's of the size of the stone. IS THIS AN EASY TASK?

 The depth of the teeth and how they are created are so extremely important in creating seats in metal, for stone setting.

 => PLEASE GO TO THE NEXT ESSAY (version #2) for additional setting notes.

Why are "156" burs so very important => 10 photos. Essay #2, of 2 POSTS.

  The main problem is that the Carbide steel is quite soft as compared with the HSS burs. What happens is that the bur makes contact with a hard metal, the claws get easily damaged & ruined.

This 45degree angle cutting bur is great for cutting bearings.

How far down into the bezel should the HSS bur go? The 'Rule' is that the bur should not go deeper than the tip of the teeth.

In this photo you can now see two shapes of the burs...45 & the 90 degree angles.

 This is a photo of slightly worn teeth on a 156C bur.

                              (These are the teeth on a HSS BUR)

  (These are my favourite photos, that I personally took.)

 You can see each individual tooth of the bur starting to cut a bearing. WOW, eh!

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 You can now see just how low the rotating bur should go. 'The tip of the teeth' IS THE RULE FOR DECIDING THE DEPTH INTO THE BEZEL WALL. 

  The rotating bur mustn't go any lower than shown here!!!

 

  (My diagram drawings are not perfect, but 'the thoughts' are there.)

 You can easily see where the HSS bur teeth are about to cut into the pre-notched claw.

How are freshly made "BEADS" made ROUND? => 7 photos

 1) Until now, we've covered how the gem-setting beads are created. 

2) We are seeing how these beads are 'moved' over the Girdle of each & every stone.

3) We are also seeing how these "psuedo-beads" were made. 

WHAT REMAINS IS THE 'ROUNDING' OF THESE LITTLE 'PIECES OF METAL'.

 A little metal pin with a recess at the tip of this 'pin' will be the answer we are looking for! We've seen these 'pins', but haven't really seen them in action, until now!

------------------"Burnishing, your Bead tips"------------

4) When securing the bead, you should ''rotate the tool' over the head, and at the same time pressing down on the metal (gently).

5) Here you can see 'how and where' these 'bud burs' are doing their work.

                          

   6) With this complete set of new 'bead burnishers', you can judge which size of burnishing-tool is required for your setting needs.

                       

7) This is the generic I.D. classification of bead burnishers.

 

7) The selected burnisher must (at all times)...completely cover the new bead-head.

 

                    (REVIEW ON CREATING NEW BEADS!)

 There will be occasions that a new set of beads need to be created without any stones being set. But how are these psuedo-new beads be created?

1) In between the two holes being drilled, there will be a little square piece of metal. This piece of metal will be the 4 beads.

2) I'll use a #02 bud-bur and cut this square into 4 spots, and cut deeper many times. We now have the spacing of 4 new beads..

  

 =>BUT THEY HAVE NOW BE MADE 'ROUND' IN SHAPE, to be made useful...<=

  3) This is a plate of metal with the spacing of 'new' beads. Although the metal - cutting is mediocre in all appearances. I've allowed enough space for the new beads to be created.

HOW DO YOU CREATE "BEADS"?..... REPEAT lesson =>19 photos!

   I was taught the principle of 'Raising Beads on BRASS alloy'. This alloy was hard, but my training was slowly taking place. What tools do we need in creating a BEAD?

1) I never create a bead in using any 'power tools'. The 'tools' that we use are our hands, fingers and an oil-stone.

2) My best tool is an Onglette graver #2, with a rounded underneath front-end of the blade. (The collection of photos will show what the gravers will look like).

3) These photos might be repeated, but they are exactly what I aimed to show you with my camera.

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 A) The inside of these new beads seem to be curved, that is so very true! Look at this bead and see the 'curved' hole.

 GET THAT NEW BEAD MOVED OVER THE EDGE OF THE STONE.

 B) The curved bottom (as shown) was shaped at the front end of the Onglette graver #2.

C) In the rear of each new bead, is a semi-sculptured round area. This is where the 'front end of the graver' that moves metal over the Girdle of each stone.

 C) This is another view of the bottom the 'correctly-shaped and contoured' new bead creating tool.

D) This photo shows the exact proportions needed to 'move' (not push) metal over each stone. As you can see there is a gentle 'uplifting' of the front of this new tool. THIS AREA IS SO IMPORTANT IN IT'S DESIGN.

 

E) I don't need to discuss further on how the shaping is needed.

 

F) Here are the exquisite results of 'Bead-Forming'.

G) After metal-cutting and insertion of the gemstones, the new 'bead-creating' action will now commence.

H) This one photo shows how the Onglette graver looks before the Emery Wheel is being shaped. The blade on the bottom is an Onglette #2, while the top blade is a #1. 

I) Bead setting can be a difficult task for the beginner who has to bead-set Genuine Emeralds.

J) On the lower front of the graver is where 'rounding' will start. This Emery paper will give the steel graver a smooth buffeting & rounded appearance.

K) Hold the graver at 30 degree angle, as this will give a nice 'uplifting apperance' to the bottom of the blade.

All about your oil-stone!

1) This is what your oil-stone looks like just after you buy it.

2) I'm holding the graver at a 45degree angle. (Ready for action!)

3) Always 'run your graver' in the oil. Never use it without any contact with any "lubricating" oil.

4) In this photo, the oil seems to be draining away from the immediate work area! Be careful that this doesn't happen.

5) Never let your graver just 'glide on the surface'. Put some applied weight of your fingers unto the blade while you're using it.

6) With each 'runing of the graver' there will be hundreds of little grains of steel remaining on the oil-stone.

 What is now happening is these little grains of steel are getting embedded into the pores of the stone. GET RID OF THEM NOW!

7) Don't wash the stone, never sink the stone into any ultra-sonic cleaner. The BEST way to clean your stone is to use a strong magnet. Your oil won't get discarded, furthermore, you can easily see the shards of metal actually being 'lifted' off of the oil-stone.

  I sincerely hope that some of my tutorial-lessons will make your gem-setting activities 'less of a burdon'.