What can an Onglette graver do for you, just look? => 12 photos

 This Onglette graver is the workhorse of the Diamond Setters' world. I should rephrase this question here and right now.

What can the Onglette graver....NOT DO?

The Onglette and Flat gravers have a symbiotic relationship. Each of these two gravers need each other to create 'works of art'.

 I spent two+ weeks in metal carving this pendant and deciding which stones went where. Where would I be if I didn't have these precision blades?

 The sharp point of this graver literally cuts deep separating grooves into the metal. This is the beginning of a 'Fish-Tail' pattern.

 

 No other cutting-blade can dig in so accurately as an Onglette #1.

  These 'Onglette, beginning cuts' are the precursor for the use of a Flat graver.

 

 ONLY an Onglette graver can cut so evenly and with such precision as this blade. Enjoy the enlarged photo, below is the regular magnification.

  These two photos are the beginnings of a '2-bead stone setting'.

 Without these graver cuts, the Flat graver just wouldn't be able to cut with such exacting precision. Trust me!!!

 

 Once that some of the Flat cuts have been made, it's time to procede further.

 All of this metal cutting MUST BE DONE PRIOR TO ANY STONE SETTING.

 Here is another example of metal sculpturing that is done with Onglette & Flat gravers.

 It is now 70 years ago, that my Uncle gave me this wine goblet to commemerate my 13th birthday (Bar Mitzvah).

All of this lettering was done by hand, such precision.

 

 These are the 'tools of our trade'. I name these surgical blades, as the Onglette blades are sharpened just what a surgeon might use.

  All of these various lengths of Onglette blades are still useful with the extension of my (adjustable) graver handles.

  If you view my blog photo's, you will see more photos of what the gravers can do for you. 

THESE 'BEADS' ARE FOR YOU to Enjoy! =>12 photos

 From my extensive library of Diamond Setting photos, I've edited and altered the size of the selected pictures.

 Basically, these are now NEW for YOU!

 The stone was purposely unset, it was to show what it looked like before the gemstone was to be set.

 From a near-square block of metal, I'm now going to display what two lines can do in creating 'beads'. 

 I will first cut with an Onglette graver #1, then with an Onglette #2 at a much DEEPER DEPTH. 

 

 

 The next step is to use a small bud-shaped bur to widen the space. Once that this accomplished, I'd use my Bead-Burnisher and with a downward pressure 'round off' the square-points.

 These are your new BEADS!! Gently use another bud-bur and make these new beads deeper in depth and wider in size.

  Although that this was a CAD design. It shows the uniformity of both height and width of these mini-claws.

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 This was originally a FLAT-top Gent's ring with no spaces for stones. You can see the new beads and the bead-burnisher doing what is necessary. These new beads are now gently burnished and soft to the touch.

 Can you imaine bead-burnishing a Genuine Emerald, just make sure the edge of the conical shape of the burnisher doesn't touch the facets of the Moh's Scale 6 Emerald.

 I prefer if you'd use a 10x power loupe and examine the results.

 Here I'm holding the burnishing tool at a 90 degree angle.

  All of the beads are now uniform in size. This is so very important, it must be repeated...OFTEN!

 Even if many beads are not covering any stone, the "decorative, inside-beads" have to be burnished as well.

                              Did you enjoy this essay on BEADS?

Why is a "156C" bur so very important? => 17 photos. ESSAY #1, of 2 posts

 Of all the intricate burs on the diamond setters bench, this one bur can do so much for your stone setting. Remember, don't get confused with the "HSS" bur, also known as "High Speed Steel".

 => The teeth of the Carbide Burs are so much closer than the HSS burs, as shown further below!

 The particular letter signifies that this bur 'C' is an acronym of Carbide Steel! This bur is also named 'bearing cutter', plus they come in 45, 70 & 90angles.

 Please be specific of your needs upon ordering from your suppliers, as mistakes could be costly for you.

 These '156' burs are made in many sizes from #005 all the way up to #070.

 What are their many uses? =>Channel Setting, Cluster Settings and preliminary Pave' Settings & 4-Claw Engagement Rings.

Please examine the 'closely knit group of teeth' on the Carbide bur.

 This thin (45degree angle) cutting edge bur is best for cutting 'claw bearings' only.
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 Here is a great example of the 90degree angle bur beside the two 45degree angle burs.

  This bur purposely cut a bearing on one side of the channel wall ONLY. This is used to cut a groove for the Girdle that will be created. I'll rotate the ring and prepare for 'another seat' on the opposite side.

 On a 'cluster style ring', the bottom of the bur will be prepared for the Pavillion of the stone. WHY?

 It is best to 'open' up the setting hole further with a round bur.  This will give the setter ample room to cut seats where necessary.

When using your rotating bur, keep the bur in a vertical position.

 When preparing to set any row of stones (as shown) it is required to drill THROUGH the metal and give more access to the Culets. 

 There is little, or no room for the polishing (used material) to escape.

The mini-stones were held together with greatest assistance of those 156C burs. 

 The selected bur size must never be the same as the stone. The "rule of choosing a bur" is that it must be 3/4's the size of the stone.

  In this tray of burs I'm leaving the largest burs in a group all by themselves. The smallest 156C burs will be kept seperately. If I need even a smaller size of burs, I'll keep them in another tray.

 Enclosed in this bur tray are Genuine Rubies, my formidable task is to pick ONE bur out of many, that is 3/4's of the size of the stone. IS THIS AN EASY TASK?

 The depth of the teeth and how they are created are so extremely important in creating seats in metal, for stone setting.

 => PLEASE GO TO THE NEXT ESSAY (version #2) for additional setting notes.

Why are "156" burs so very important => 10 photos. Essay #2, of 2 POSTS.

  The main problem is that the Carbide steel is quite soft as compared with the HSS burs. What happens is that the bur makes contact with a hard metal, the claws get easily damaged & ruined.

This 45degree angle cutting bur is great for cutting bearings.

How far down into the bezel should the HSS bur go? The 'Rule' is that the bur should not go deeper than the tip of the teeth.

In this photo you can now see two shapes of the burs...45 & the 90 degree angles.

 This is a photo of slightly worn teeth on a 156C bur.

                              (These are the teeth on a HSS BUR)

  (These are my favourite photos, that I personally took.)

 You can see each individual tooth of the bur starting to cut a bearing. WOW, eh!

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 You can now see just how low the rotating bur should go. 'The tip of the teeth' IS THE RULE FOR DECIDING THE DEPTH INTO THE BEZEL WALL. 

  The rotating bur mustn't go any lower than shown here!!!

 

  (My diagram drawings are not perfect, but 'the thoughts' are there.)

 You can easily see where the HSS bur teeth are about to cut into the pre-notched claw.