Marquise Ruby Stone Setting! => 14 photos

 Marquise shaped Rubies need to be carefully placed into a wedding band. You have two claws with two curved basket-settings to work on.

 To start the setting process, we need a ROUND bur that is the same size of the point of the Girdle of the stone.

  You need a BUD bur that will enlarge the pavilion shape of the bezel-setting. Carve around the deepest area of the stone.

 There must be another larger BUD bur that will curve the setting evenly from one claw post to the other.

 

 GENTLY carve the bezel setting as the shape of the stone must coincide with the metal frame.

 Place the Ruby into this setting and make sure that stone isn't moving around in the bezel.

 NOW, we can GENTLY press over the two claws, one at a time. Understand that these two claws will forever hold the stone in place.

 If the Rubies are of different sizes, then select the largest stones for the middle of the setting.

 Please makr sure that the stones are level and laying flat.

These end-claw-settings is where the smallest stones will be placed.

 

 Just make sure that ALL OF THE STONES ARE SECURE IN THE RING.

Please be sure that the claws are resting against & over the Ruby.

 Use your bud bur to clear away any unwanted metal at the post areas.

 Are all of the areas of the pavilian of equal angles to the stonw.

 

Diagrams & Pictures of "Gemstone Setting" => 17 photos.

This upper diagram gives you a good opportunity to see where the stone should seat. The lower diagram shows the incorrect position of the stone.

 The straight-sided bur is not conducive to a good setting position. But now compare the straight-edge to the lower diagram showing a seat for the Crown and Pavillion Facets. This stone-setting bur is a "High Speed Steel" bur which is fantastic just for this setting.

 In this diagram showing 5 positions of the drill and anvils, you can see how the metal is being 'moved gently' over girdle of the stone. I personally want to avoid the #2 & #3 methods, as there is too much effort in setting the stone.

Once that the metal has be lowered securely over the Girdle of the stone, what comes next? The answer is quite simple, I'd use my Onglette graver and cut inside the bezel...(as shown)!

 

What I did with this Oval stone, will be the same as what I will do to Tube Setting.

 You will instantly notice that the angles of the stone must be exactly the same to the ring.

                                       

  This simple diagram displays what a crooked stone actually looks like. The base of the Cabochon stone has being set incorrectly.

 The sides of the Bezel has too much metal covering the stone. It is advisable to lower the Bezel wall to the "Table Facet".

 The Bezel top shouldn't be too thick or too flat. The top of the wall should blend in with the curvature of the stone. This is a descretionary action based upon your ongoing experience.

                                                 

 Do not leave the tops of the walls of the Bezel FLAT.

 My hammer-head was weighed in at 85.0 grams. The Bezel wall must be in complete contact with the stone!!!

  Do not leave the inner wall of the Bezel 'untouched'. It must be Bright-Cut with your Onglette graver #2.

 Use your Pumice Wheel of #180 grit to smooth any hammer-hitting-indentations. The outside Bezel wall should be at least a 45degree angle.

 ALWAYS KEEP YOUR HAMMER-ANVIL LEANING AT 45 DEGREES. Avoid any contact with the delicate gemstone.

 Keep the Culet of the stone from touching the mandrel. Always have a groove in your mandrel.

In this diagram, you can see where there was my Bright-Cutting the inner-bezel wall and I trimmed the Bezel further.

  In this final photo, I chose to use a #1,000 grit FLAT-EDGE Pumice wheel. This decision avoided any cloth-wheel, hard buffing leading to a poor ring finish.

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TEETH with Diamonds (#3) => 6 photos

 Here are 15 white gold teeth that are ready to be set with diamonds. Some of the teeth will contain 15-20 diamonds.

 These two bridges of diamonds took me 2 WEEKS of diamond setting. SPEED is not the important aspect in diamond setting.

 I'm working ONE TOOTH AT A TIME. Quality is always #1 on my to-do list!

             QUALITY, SPEED & COST.....pick two! 

                                                   ENJOY THE PHOTOS!

 

Teeth with DIAMONDS (#2) => 12 photos

 In this unusual essay, we will be describing how these little diamonds will stay in the metal.

                                ================

 In the center of the tooth there will be an invisible line running from the center, to the base of the tooth. This line will be the starting point of the diamond and its '8 beads'.

 You can see that all of the beads are eminating from this one point, agree? I engraved a line, but decided against it as you can see.

These four drilled beads are the starting point, as I mentioned. These beads must never be just drilled in a rough pattern. There will be a symetrical pattern throughout all of the 17 teeth.

 Even the four beads must be in a exacting pattern. From these 9 diamonds, the setter can layout an exacting design. From this point the setter can proceed further.

 As you can see the band of teeth must rest against the bench-peg. Many times this repositioning, will take continuous changing. 

 

 Never assume that the bridge of teeth is of one 'layout'. The tooth (or teeth) must be in the centre of the shellac-stick, as I will work on one tooth at a time.

 Ensure that all of the diamonds are of the same depth. The 'Table' of the diamond must be flat with the surface of the surrounding metal. Don't bead-set too many diamonds at one time, I prefer 4-5 stones at one session.

RULE #1:The beads have to be symetrical around the center stone.

 RULE #2: There must be no spaces anywhere on any tooth.

 

 You notice that at the base of each tooth, I chose to have a uniform area that will allow me to engrave a line, (if needed).

  I prefer to keep all of my setting tools in close proximitry to each other.

 The time involved in stone setting, is of no concern. We are dealing with 100% perfection!

 

Photos of teeth with DIAMONDS (#1) => 15 photos

 This wooden shellac-stick has one purpose. That is to literally hold the band of gold teeth against my bench-peg while I'm working.

Here in this photo are lightly drilled spots where holes will be drilled. If I approve of the spacing, then and only then, will I proceed to use my twist-drill and drill further into one tooth at a time.

 If I'm pleased with the semi-drilled holes and the spacing. I will proceed to drill through the metal.

  I will not cut into the metal BUT proceed to create beads around EACH OF THE DIAMONDS.

 I left one hole unset, why is this? I might set either a small, or maybe a large stone, this will be my "judgement call" at the last moment for spacing.

 Spacing & positioning, is very critical for a new tooth. Even the bead-layout must be thought of ahead of time.

 

 The sizes of diamonds for each tooth is critical. As in this photo, there are four (4) sizes of diamonds to work with.

One hole is off-center, this is where accidents might occur. In this case, I'll use a bud-bur and will reposition the "last drill-hole" and then the "drilling" will come to a stop!

 Occasionally, I must reposition the band of teeth on the shellac-stick. The flame must be on a low-heat.

 The bead-raiser should be monitored at all times. I use a #800 grit paper.

 I will attempt to remove any defects in the metal prior to any stone setting.

 If the tooth is oval, then I must decide where the stones will be set. Here you see 3 rows of stones AND 2 rows around the center stone.

Even the spacing has to planned ahead of time, WHEW!

  There are 8 diamonds AND another row of 6 stones around this center diamond. Many times I will pause my drilling until I've completely decided that the drilling is satisfactory.

 

As you can see that there are 12 burs of all sizes. I used a small sized "156C" to Under-Cut any stone if needed.

 

 Can you see just how many sizes of stones there are in this one tooth? I have 15 more teeth to work on in total.