This is a "Cluster-ring", and as well named as a "Cluster-pendant", with photographs and including hand-drawn diagrams. There is lots of work taking many photographs and hand-drawing of diagrams!
For my selection of "156C" burs these are known as "undercutting" burs, or "heart-shaped" burs.
The "C" refers to "Carbide".
These burs, better known as "77B", or "Cup-Bur". When these burs are finished being used, the tips of the claws or prongs the claws will be completely rounded as in a ball shaped configuration. All claws must left with this very attractive shape!!!
The two burs that are now being shown are the "large-round" & the "large-bud" shaped bur. The reasons for these being used are simple, but many.
The large bud & round suite the needs for the Pavillion shapes of the round stones. I need to have these stone fitting into the holes of the cluster ring or pendant.
The large round bur have 'only one purpose' and that is to prepare the large bud bur. Many times the castings do have a tendency to have the metal get out of shape due to the centripetal castings.
I call this the "great, whoops-effect" and no one wants this to happen, agree?..:>(
I'm using this mini, portable hand-clamp, this works just wonders for me. I can hold this very close to my 'close-up, working areas'. I must see where I'm working on, with no guessing, if not; mistakes could very easily happen.
DO NOT PUT YOUR "CLUSTER-TOP" IN THE WORKING AREA OF THIS CLAMP!
How will you push over these claws? Here are some simple answers, no hard metal pushers, no pliers, use only your brass pusher!!
These are never to be used, as they are too deep when used and will be too difficult to get smooth.
Just for your information, I used a "Corundum Wheel" and cut a pattern on both of them.
(At a later date, all you do is to use a "Snap-On", Emery Wheel and smooth the metal).
The next topics are now very important; Securing, Setting, and of course Cleaning of your (many) Claws.
The "Pavillion Claw section" below and on the left, has been opened with only the large bud-shaped bur. On the below right, the complete "Pavillion Claw section" has been correctly opened and has been
nicely prepared and prepared for the next step...STONE SETTING!
These "77B" burs are used for only one purpose and that is to make the claw tips rounded.
What sizes are to be used? The method that I regularly and this use I actually check each size by placing each bur over the claw tip and have that bur overlap each claw.
N.B. => I prefer to keep my burs in "sequential order".
I prefer to set one stone at a time; =>1) "set & tightened" => 2) "set & tightened," and until every stone is "set & tightened"
REMEMBER THIS RULE, (PRINT IT OUT) AS THIS IS SO VERY IMPORTANT !
=> BY THE WAY <=
=>ALWAYS start your setting with the center 1-stone, 6-CLAW first <=
THIS IS SO VERY IMPORTANT! Why must you set this center-stone first?
All of the center-stone "6-claws" rely upon the "middle row" of stones. Then the outside row in turn depend upon those! All of these "claws & stones" depend upon more or less, on each other!
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When starting to set Diamond cluster-pendants of this nature, always think what comes first the size or the colour of the stone.
As for me, a Diamond Setter for only 60+ YEARS, this list can be absolutely long and so very mind-boggling.
Many Diamond Setters these days have strong microscopes at their benches. My microscope is quite relatively interesting as it is combined in with my laptop computer. It has a power from 40x => 200x, in fact, many of my photos are in a range of 80x power.
Now let's get back to this essay and what do I look for before setting any Diamond?
I watch for these important topics: 1) thickness of the Girdle, 2) the uneven thickness facets in the Pavillion, 3) are there any inclusions, 4) do you see a broken Culet, 5) are there any Facets that are not matching above or 6) below the Girdle, 7) Broken, or chipped Facets (anywhere!) 8) Unnecessary faceting on the Girdle 9) and finally, are there any Rough texturing on the Girdle?
I'm using a Pumice wheel of #180 grit, as this removes any and all of the marks from any casting.
I prefer to use only in this occasion to use the Tapered Wheel in spot-cleaning the center 6-claw head. Do not use any file of any sort as there will be a serrated edge and this is when it's so very difficult to remove. (Stick to the easiest method possible).
Here is the actual presentation of the 77B bur as it's being checked for being ready to be used. Can you now see "how the 77B overlaps the tip of the claws".
I always make sure that the brass, pushing-rod is shaped larger than the size of the claw. I never select the same size as this is "Rule number #1".
It's here, that I'm using my Flat Graver to create a little piece piece of metal to hold the stone in with great strength. There is possibly no way that this stone is going to move, it's in this 'cluster-head' for a...very...long...time!!
Always (and I repeat) always make a bearing-cut just under the "single, outside claw" why? This is now making that claw so much easier to bend over. Once you have this completed, you can now gently move that claw until it's touching the stone.
You can 'magnetic-tumble', I do this all the time, as this gives such a wonderful chance for the metal to shine. A few setters actually "pre-polish the metal, long before the stone go in".
As you can see how close to the edge of the clamp is this cluster-head it's so easy to work with. Here is the good example of setting the center-stone first!
It is here that you can observe what the Flat Graver did to 'grab a piece of metal'. It's here also that the larger center stone claws are smooth.
These two slivers of metal are 'acting as claws', these slivers will never allow this stone to get loose.
I'm happy with these results, ARE YOU?
A light Rouge (will suffice) after setting!
It's just my taste to set this cluster with two colours!
If you have any questions, you may contact me; gerrylewy18 (at) gmail.com
Regards! Gerry Lewy.
