Additional BEZEL-setting techniques. (13 photos)

 This photo is the reason why I'm explaining Bezel Settings. This is the ultimate in Bezel work, as there is no other way of showing you the techniques than in text & photos. 

 Videos are nice but rather difficult to produce. Text is better as there is no chance of getting a full blown photo in a video. No speaking, no chances of missing an important fact in gemstone setting.

The Oval and Round Bezel settings are basically the same, except for the shape of the stone.

 When you dealing with large stones, the Culets of the stones might protrude through bottom while being hammer tightened. Then this the reason why the Culet must never touch the steel mandrel, then the point of the stone won't get damaged.

 IT CAN (easily) HAPPEN.

Here is a photo of a broken culet, say "goodbye to the stone".

 On an Oval Bezel, you can see the folded 'bezel frame'. The bezel setting wall has been cleaned with a Pumice Wheel #180 grit, finally a #1,000 Pink coloured pumice wheel.

 If you choose to use a cloth wheel, then all of the sharp corners will be 'rounded' during the important polishing processes. (I wouldn't use this technique).

 This ring bezel is aptly named "Half-Bezel" as parts of the frame is being reduced. There is more of the stone being exposed and more light will get into the stone.

 On any Bezel setting that has come from the casting department, there are extra pieces of metal that need to be removed, NOW. After the setting has been done, then it's too late. Have this ring thoroughly cleaned aka 'Pre-Polishing', NOW.

 After the setting has been completed then the 'Bright-Cutting' must be done also NOW.

Here are two High Speed Steel burs aka HSS burs. The bur on the right is good for bezel setting, the bur on the left shouldn't be used. As the teeth are badly worn down.

 The size of the bur should be no larger with the combined 80% of the stone 'width and length'.

 This bur is too large to use, why? There won't be any allowable movement within the bezel setting. If the width is 6.0 mm's, then the width of the bur must not exceed 4.75 mm's.

 In this 'before & after' viewing, there has been some very interesting techniques being explained. I sincerely wish that you have learned some newer aspects of Bezel Setting.

 

Reciprocating Hammer & accessories. (12 photos)

  Reciprocating Hammer is the basis for all my hammering and for what I initially paid for it, was money well spent.

 This lever on the hammer shaft regulates the 'hitting pressure'.

Never allow the anvil point to get too close to the gemstone. You must 'move' the metal against the stone, but NEVER ON TOP OF IT. 

 As you can see there has been no hitting or pushing at the 4 corners.

 

 I will of course, allow the metal to be evenly smoothed away from the corners. 

 In this diamond pendant seen below, never allow the anvil to 'pound the guts' on to the

 4 corners. The risk is too high in breaking the stone.

 

 Here is the finished modification of the anvil ready to be used. You can see how fine-tuned it looks. It now have 3 pressure hitting points. 

 They are the 1) Sides, 2) Ends, as well as the 3) Corners.

 

 In the background view is the tool-suppliers' new anvil.

 Here is the full mechanism, including the "Flex-Shaft". I heartily suggest that your new hammer comes equipped with it.

 This long tool is your life-saver at the best of times. Instead of 'hand-pushing', the Reciprocating Hammer does all of the 'hitting and pressure moving' of the metal. No hand can do all of this with equal dexterity & with pressure all the time.

 Here are the many anvils that can be used at your discretion. These can be removed for different setting projects. I once used a fine-pointed anvil to simulate a 'rough-texture' on many jewellery pieces.

 For your information, this hammer anvil needs to be desperately reshaped. Even I wouldn't use it again in this state of disrepair.

 I'd grind the whole top again with using an Emery Wheel to clean the surface.

"CASINO" DICE for you (10 photos)

When I made a collection of Casino-related jewellery I used Dice as one of my pieces. Each dice had 21 gemstones in each unit with two pieces, the total got to be 42 gemstones.

 I preferred to make each unit as attractive as possible. I used the best size as allowed, with space permitting.

 Pricing got to be another important factor. There was much metal in the manufacturing and with the stone size and qualities. I got back to deciding for the smaller size of each unit.  "DECISIONS & MORE DECISIONS"

 The second choice was to use a reduced size of stones for smaller size of dice.

 I saw this 'rounded' edge of a dice, There were some inherent problems with the actual stone setting.  The reasons were, as it appeared to be problems in not allowing me to increase the size of the stones being a major factor.

 The curvature of the corners made me think twice in pursuing this 'alternate' pattern. I can and always look and think of problems long before the actual casting has taken place. SO SHOULD YOU. JEWELLERY LOOKS NICE, BUT WILL IT WORK?

 

 My next and final question was how to set these stones without damaging the surface?  

I chose to set each stone lower than 'normal' and use 4 'wire-beads', aka "hooks" around each stone. 

I casually thought about applying a 'texture' to the surface. I like this idea, why? After a few tumbling of the dice on the gambling table, the polished surface will get marked.

 

"Princess" CRUISE SHIP - logo (6 photos)

 During a recent cruise on a Princess ship, my creative mind was interested in the fascinating ships' logo.

 What you now see is the actual 'mid-ship' with it's famous logo. With my CAD designer 'we' came up with the duplicate rendering of how it should look as a 'wearable piece of art' item.

 

This wax facsimile was only a start for the next few steps. I requested that a silver casting be made with the intent of making it into an actual brooch.

 On the 'reverse' is the name of the cruise lines, which was my idea.

 

 I suggest that it can be worn during our next cruise. It'll be a nice way to promote the skills of being a gemstone setter and jeweller. Good idea?

If you wish to copy my idea, please do so and enjoy the results.

Shopping mall displays (11 photos)

These photographs were seen in a local shopping mall and my mind ran amok. I just took some of the most interesting displays using the time allotted to me.

 Here is a mixture of Pink stones along with many Pear-shaped gemstones.

 Here is a cluster of 'shared claws' along with 2, Full Bezel settings for the eyes.

  The inner wax circle is using 'shared claws' and Pave' setting for the outer area. This will look very attractive as a 'watch case' cover.

  This watch is showing a fantastic arrangement of genuine diamonds.

 Can you tell me the quality of these gemstones?

 I chose to play a bit with my little stone display boxes. The display box is using  'pink coloured' gemstones. You should 'play' as you work, it helps to ease the stress.

 

MAJOR 12 errors with this completed Diamond Ring. (11 photos)

This cast ring had so many problems that could write for hours teaching you how not to set stones like this setter did. I'm going to number each of as I go along, agree?

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1) The Rhodium plating was poorly applied along the upper edge.

2) There are defects where the bead-burnisher touched the right-side of the diamond area.

3) The claws are too long (or high) above the diamond.

4) Each of the claws are unfinished from any trimming from any filing. 

5) The Bead-Burnishing had metal defects on the lower and outside claws.

6) There is squeezing of the bead-tips. (I could use some vulgarity describing how this looks).

7) The inside edge wasn't Bright-Cut. It just looks rough as no care was given to the actual setting.

8) This is another view of the claws and how they appear.

9)  The sides of the ring had no finishing from the jewellers labour.

10) The sides of the claws were never cleaned, its too late to do this now...(post setting).

11) You can see that the holes for the shoulder stones were not drilled through. The diamonds will never shine as no light will gain access to them.

12) The inner-basket where the center stone will eventually sit has not been 'pre-polished'.