OVAL Bezel Setting. (7 photos)

 The Oval Bezel with 'opened sides' are great to work with, why is this? There is a greater exposure of the light in entering the stone, plus it isn't completely covered in metal .

 I prefer to cut my bearings inside the 1/2 bezel wall with the "High Speed Steel" bur. 

If I used a Carbide bur, aka "156C" the less aggressive teeth just wouldn't cut into the metal deep enough. Not too mention the angles of the bur are not shaped like the stone.

 In this up-close photo you can nicely see the bearings being cut DEEP into the metal. The angles of the stone completely match the angles of the bearings in the metal.

 But what happens if the Girdle of the stone is thick? The answer is quite easy to solve, use a round bur with the SAME measurements of the Girdle and create a more agreeable seat for this thicker stone. The problem 100% solved.

 Now that the stone is sitting in the "Half-Bezel Wall" your stone must be level and not crooked or slanted. This stone must be also 'level as seen in all angles', there can be no 'second fixing' once the stone is set.

 Please use an Onglette graver that has its "Right Side" highly polished and the result will be similar to a mirror.

 Don't avoid this 'finishing process', its a part of the actual gemstone setting. WE ALL AIM FOR PERFECTION!

 In the Carbide bur, the teeth are much closer together and just don't have the angles and design of the stone.

  All stones facets have their own names for easier stone locating. Here are the official "Gemmological Institute of America" descriptions of the stone facets.

 

The Difficulty Scale of this setting process is 'estimated' at 7 out of 10.