Diamond Setting on "Royal Jewellery" - 16 photos

 In this "350th tutorial - essay", I'm going to explain the practices in setting stones that were in vogue hundreds of years ago. I will be displaying the "Crown Jewels of Iran" and "British Royal Jewellery" in this one essay there is so much to discuss.

 It behooves me not to delve into the origins of aristocracy on how these royal ornaments came to be. 

 I don't want to examine or discuss the politics of either country. This is not what 'our blog' is all about, do you all agree with this ruling?

===================================

  In the many centuries preceding our 20th century, "Raising Beads" to secure a stone" was not known back then. It was just not done, nor had the jewellers know of the technology to create 'Pave Setting' as we know of it today.

 Of course, there was no "Computer Aided Designing, aka CAD" to help the jeweller to create their vast array of crowns & other ornaments.

 The only method to hold any stone in place was to create metal around each and every stone. Imagine gem-setting every little stone with minute-sized bezels?

 When this was first discovered, there was no 'rhyme or reason' for this very unusual gold ball. It didn't serve any purpose except to be used to have the many gemstones set into it.

 This added piece of jewellery was for the 'horn of the saddle'. The sole purpose was just to be an extra adornment for the horse's saddle.

 

 Each gemstone was set in it's own mini-bezel, these little bezels were not cleaned after setting. The jeweller just wanted the stones to stay in the metal. 

 These photos also show the 'poor-medium' setting qualities, as 'setting using high quality' was not the general practice.

 This globe was a mere 3 feet high, it was made just to teach the 'royal' children about geography.

  As you can see in this up-close photo how the quality of stone setting is. The metal was just pushed over the "Girdle" of every stone, now compare todays setting practices to back then.

 This was a scabbard of the warriors' sword. It was adorned with so many gems its amazing where the warrior had any room to put his hand. As you can see is that the very large stones were mounted in claws.

    This was one of  the two shoulder coverings to be put on the coat for the 'royal dignitary'. In this photo, you can see the 'rough finish' on all of the stone setting, pity eh!

 This is another sword covering as it is emblazoned with gemstones as there isn't any space left for another group of stones.

 All the curved gemstones were 'hand-polished' just to fit into this gold emblem.

=================================================

 

  If the new wearer of any crown in the British Monarchy had to have the crown adjusted for size. The 'royal jeweller' had to use a saw-blade to cut into the crown and remove or add a new piece of gold. You can just barely see the cutting-lines where the jeweller did his cutting.

 This photo is of the famous "Culilinan Diamond" before and after it was 'cut & faceted'.

 Each of these little balls are made of 24karat gold. Let's now  compare the quality of workmanship to the jewellery that was made hundreds of years ago.

   This little ball of pure gold weighs about 5 pounds of metal.

  This particular crown was 'adjusted' for size just for King Charles III just before his investiture.

My observations on Setting Emerald-Cut Diamonds using "Shared Claws" - 20 photos

 This must be one of the most difficult tutorial-essays to administer, why so? We are dealing with one of the most unusual shaped diamonds possible, but it must be shown with the greatest detail.

  I researched the internet for 'wedding bands' with this pattern of using Emerald-Cut diamonds. Here are a select few patterns for 'us' to view.       

=====================================

  These triangular-shaped, claw-tips blend in so very well with the faceted stones.

 The ideas of rounded claw tips makes the wearer at ease in wearing wedding bands like this one. There are no sharp edges to be felt anywhere.

 This choice of white gold with diamonds makes the claws be as one with the gold.

 In my 65 years at the bench, these notes leaves me with my opinion that the yellow gold gives an unnatural yellow colouring to all of the diamonds.

 Even a "D" colour diamond, it will still have a yellow tint from the yellow gold.

 I really prefer to see white metal being used with diamonds...of any colour.

 With expensive diamonds in these rings, you will notice that there is substantial amounts of metal over each of the large stones.

With rings like what you are viewing in these photographs THE "SHARED-CLAWS" ARE WIDER & THICKER than other claws that are used in cluster-rings.

 Here is a very good example of using "wider & thicker" claws. Every pair of claws, MUST be holding two very expensive diamonds. At the same time, these diamonds must be held secure at all times.

 The thickness of the metal give a better opportunity to have the 'corners of the stone' to be embedded into the metal. Even using "Princess, Square-Cut Diamonds" must be created with wider & thicker claws. 

 The "V" cut-shape claw design avoids any appearance of having overly thick claws holding the stones. I heartily approve of the decision in making claws like these.

   This "finish" in between the claws has been nicely executed. The wide claws gives an overall tone of good craftsmanship.

   These claws are so well manicured and created into a uniform round shape.

  I have no idea why there are sharp triangles at the corners of the claws? I'd be so afraid if those corners cut into the clothing. I would personally like to see 'double-round, shaped-claws' on each of the 4 corners.

 

 The overall pattern of 'round-tipped claws' gives an aura of beauty. All through my selecting of internet choice of wedding bands, this one ring style would be a definite "10+ out of 10".

 Even using a "Double-Gallery" (as shown) all of these rings are well suited for long-term wearing.

 In my opinion, the size of claws holding these diamonds is a great union of ring designing.