There are numerous occasions when you will receive a "Channel Set" ring that is fraught with many difficulties. I sincerely hope that this tutorial-essay will guide you through this quagmire of jewellery repairs, these were written by an unknown author.
I found in my library of "Diamond Setting Notes" this 'repair guide', although it was dated in August, 2000 it still needs to be viewed and 'referred to' again.
A) There are no visible lines where the soldering has taken place.
B) All along the 'underneath' of the ring the metal is smooth and there is no reduction in the measurements.
C) The edges are clean in it's appearance and not over-filed or over-polished.
D) The inside of this expensive ring has sharp edges and has been returned to it's illustrious condition.
E) This ring has a new shank and the finger-size is what the client wants to have.
F) There are no longer any loose gem-stones. All of the once loose stones are now tight & secured and all are level in the ring.
G) There are no 'rough tool' markings anywhere on the ring. All of the tightening of the stone 'marking' have been removed.
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In this diagram from 24 YEARS AGO, the author (who wasn't a stone setter) suggested to use tweezers to fiddle with these stones to see if they would move, (this is a bad idea).
I would never teach or instruct anyone to use this most 'careless' technique you could easily damage the girdle-facets of the delicate stone.
DON'T EVER TRY DOING THIS!!!
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When the need arises to tighten any loose stone there will be marks left in the metal. Get rid of them ALL before proceeding further, how is this done? I would use my Pumice wheel (240 grit) with a FLAT edge and gently remove any of these marks.
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"Little attempt in the finishing" was a major issue in this overall repair. As you can see that there is mishandling of the metal on the outside of the sizing area of the shank. The metal was not flat and just left alone, why?
There are also rough textures on the outside as well underneath areas of the stone bezels.
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To tighten any loose stones being visible, the easiest method is to use a metal punch to hammer the metal. This mini-anvil should not overlap the bezel, but should be the same width as shown.
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What is the main reason for a loose gemstone? The answer can be found inside the metal setting. Here you can see that the walls of the bezel are NOT TOUCHING THE STONE. A 'light tapping' is all that you need, no 'heavy hitting' should be used.
After all of the hammering has been completed, it is advisable to use your Pumice Wheel (240 grit) first, but not polish the metal after the hitting has taken place.
WE ARE QUALITY DIAMOND SETTERS & JEWELLERS. You want your clients to return to your office.
------------------------------------- In this diagram you will see that this ring IS NOT ROUND. The best method is to 'split the shank' with your saw-blade and adjust the shape on your metal ring mandrel, or 'ring stretcher'.
BTW, some of your stones might get loose with any adjusting of the ring shape.
With each stretching of this adjusting ring mandrel. DON'T FORCE THE SIZING TO SHAPE, this process must be done in many (gentle) increments. I'd rotate this ring on the mandrel and gently adjust the shape of the ring with each 'rotation' of using the lever.
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Here is an easier position to rest or hold your ring mandrel. Hammering your stone bezels on steel will give you much greater hand-holding support.
I would hold the ring with my finger tips and then gently rotate the ring on the mandrel. The result will be a greater opportunity in tightening any loose stones.
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If there are any stones loose let then know NOW. In my office, I'd have my client sign a waiver informing her or him of any damaged stones prior to any fixing that will be done.
Let's call this an 'insurance policy' between you and your client.
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When you are dealing with 'semi-precious' stones Ruby, Blue Sapphires or even Emeralds (excluding Diamonds). DO NOT PLACE YOUR EMERY (DISK) WHEEL AGAINST ANY OF THESE SOFTER STONES.
These cleaning wheels have Corundom particles embedded in the disk and will destroy the many facets of the stones.
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If a diamond is improperly placed in its setting (as shown) I, as a Diamond Setter, will tighten the crooked stone on the highest stone angle.
All of the stones must be sitting FLAT, remembering that any metal tapping must be done on the metal bezel but not touching the stone.
This 'light tapping' should be done on a metal ring clamp, not on a soft leather ring clamp that will absorb any (downward) hitting pressure.
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Just to repeat this ill-written technique, this method must not be ever attempted.
"gerrylewy18@gmail.com"
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