Claw/Prong Pusher!
Which metal-pusher would YOU use, when, where and how?
Copper, Steel & Brass
Stone Pushers!
(The following paragraphs were taken from a previously written essay. This essay was written three years (2015) ago, the fonts are slightly different, but the text and information is still so very, very important!
If you find that there is a repetition of facts, my humblest apologies. That is because setting skills & talents haven't changed, just the year!
Much debate now centres on which
pusher gives the best suits and for which job. The merits of each metal will now be discussed in the greatest of details.
The Brass pusher is often used for Gypsy Setting
delicate stones such as Emeralds or other semi-precious stones. This Copper
pusher will not compress the gold around the girdle as much as a harder Brass
pusher might. (Note the word…“might”.)
Brass can be used with
gold, but it is still softer than steel. It is best used when setting
with Platinum. Use "Emery, Snap-On" paper wheel with a 'Medium grade' over its pushing tip to prevent deep marks. (This
technique may also be applied to the Copper & Steel pushers.)
Brass, however, delivers better results than the softer Copper. Neither Copper
nor Brass has the strength when applying heavy downward pressure for thicker
and wider Engagement-ring claws.
The potential for slipping is greater with
either of these two softer metals.
Steel is the hardest metal to use and too
unforgiving to be used for Gypsy Setting. The tip, or edges of the pusher can and always will mark or scratch the stone. It could destroy a facet, scratch Turquoise, or damage a softer Mohs scale stone.
The "Serrated Edge" of the
pusher will leave deep indentations in the metal and should not be used with Platinum. Often marks will remain for your cleaning after the setting and may require extensive
polishing.
Therefore reduce the much-needed metal thickness when setting
with gold or Platinum.
Please handle with great care with the softer metal with the steel pusher!
(Here is the newer essay that was written only a few days ago.
When & How to make them. I have in
my collection of pushers ranging from Brass, Copper & Steel. The
interesting question here is when to use them?
I believe in
fabricating or ‘modifying’ any new pusher, at a moment’s notice!
Let’s start with a steel pusher, I prefer to use a steel from a large file, just for that steel! I find that this steel is still great for many
decades to come, as you can see that one pusher I continually use, is only to
be on Diamonds. In fact, in this ‘steel pusher’ you can still see the old file
teeth still showing near the wooden handle. (BTW, that pusher being shown here is well over 50 years
old!)
Brass & Copper pushers are just
excellent, why so? Many stones you will be setting requires constant
thinking on what metal-pusher you need! I will just never think of relying on
one metal pusher, again why so? You are dealing with so many ‘hardness’ of
stones.
Most metal rods come in basic widths,
but I feel comfortable with a 3/16” inch diameter. But these ‘pusher tips’ should
sit comfortably in your hand and not to exceed the first knuckle of your middle
finger!
Would I use a ‘Steel-Pusher’ on an Emerald? Only if I want it to be broken and that is what happens if I do use steel on Amethyst, Emerald, Coral, Blue Zircon, Amber or Pearls?..;>(
If I do
use these pushers on the soft stones, my metal-pusher might slip off the
claw-tip and scrape or even ruin the “Crown, or the Star Facets” these might touch
these facets by accident & good-bye stone!
I think it is prudent that the many reasons be mentioned, as accidents could very well happen!!!
I will use Brass or Copper with these
stones and you should have the metal tip ‘trimmed to shape’ as these tips will
now have a serrated edge. These ‘textured surfaces’ are created by hitting the pusher-metal that you just created, with your large "Pillar" file.
The new teeth marks
will give you the desired texture that you need. A light 'hit or tap' will give the required 'minimum texture' you might need now at your bench.
I again prefer to 'roll over with the pusher' and I need to see & observe just where the pusher is making contact!
Where do you buy these specialized &
modified tools? Simple answer, you don’t, you have to make these new
tools yourself!
Your local or international tool suppliers
only sell the rod that is joined to wooden handles. You have to ‘trim
& create’ the tip and measure it to your length from your finger, to the palm
of your hand.
I will use a Pillar-file of #1 cut, to 'texture' the tip, then follow up with your Emery-disks of “Medium” grade just to smooth
the surface further.
This is followed by using a Pumice wheel of #180 grit.
The
basic metal tools that you buy from your supplier are just a ‘long metal rod’. You have much
to do in the “Reshaping & Experimenting" department!
If you have to set Pearls or Opal, what
tool would you use? I would test the softness of the metal and prepare to
again sculpt & modify the claw-tip just to fit against the claw. I would
drill a little recess into the pusher and that is just where the claw will rest
while being used.
When you are setting a Pearl in a 6-claw head. I would use a Copper pusher! Here is a little
solution to prevent any slippage. Have your pusher-tip drilled with a round bur just where you are applying pressure! Have this
bur-recess made larger than the claw, how is this done? I’d measure the claw
diameter, then have your new tip 1/2 mm larger in size.
If you use a steel-pusher; you very well could have the ‘serrated-edge texture’ remaining on the claw. That alone will cause you much stress
in trying to remove those deep marks & resulting in metal & great time lost!
To make such a textured surface. I always use a "Corundum,
Separating Disk" these will cut little grooves into the steel surface.
If you are attempting to set an Opal,
Turquoise or even Amber I would suggest to use a soft Copper metal-pusher. For
you to use Brass, I’d shy away from using this metal on these very delicate
stones. This is still a very hard (pushing) metal to use, some problems might
occur! The problems are literally cracking the Opal, or just splitting the
I’d keep using the new 'pusher' until you get the
‘feel’ of the amount of pressure being applied. Then you can graduate in using any
tool that you need. I still use the "softer metal" pushers, even today!
HOW DO YOU MODIFY THEM? Great question, so easy to answer!
I’d first use a ‘very rough file’ surface to
place a ‘texture’ on the tip, as I said once before, hitting it with a file to the
soft metal gives you just the texture that you need.
Once this is done, softly use
your pumice wheel at #180 grit to ‘gently smooth the coarse textured finish’.
On the Copper, 3/16” rod, use a round
bur at about the size of the claw that has to be pushed over. If you prefer a
larger claw-recess, do so! The claw has to fit comfortably against the
‘pusher‘. If you prefer to even ‘pre-polish’ the setting area and claws, please
do so now!
Then once the ring
is completely finished, you can place those so very soft stones into the ‘prepared claws’. Then
you can gently push over the claws but put the ring into your clamp lined with
tissue paper! Why so? I don’t want any marks remaining in the highly polished metal surface!
I keep my variety of ‘pushers’ all in long & short wooden
handles, all of them have little “Identifying Markings” in the handles.
At a moment’s notice, I can visually locate which handle has the ‘desired & required metal-pusher’.
My many steel pushers have
rectangular-shaped tips, even square-shaped tip, why so? I can literally
‘roll the metal tip over the contact area on the claw’. I rarely use my “Reciprocating-Hammer”
on any gentle stone.
