Creating an "AZURE" design => video link

 Long before 'we' had 'CAD' aka "Computer Aided Designing" there was no method in creating a design inside, or underneath a piece of finished jewellery. We had to create patterns with our few engraving tools. 

Thankfully we now have this skill & computer programs.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nFggN3jc6s&t=10s

Third video on "Creating Beads" => in a series of 3 films.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Kq05yl5sFo&t=28s

This is the third film of 3 in a series on "Creating Beads".

Second film in "Creating Beads" 2nd video => in a series of 3 films.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Kq05yl5sFo&t=28swutUc

 I chose to keep these 3 videos separated instead of all 3 in one blog.

First video on "Creating Beads. => 1 of 3 in a series.

This is the first in a series of 3 videos  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atTLGL

VERY DETAILED - REVIEW on => "Gypsy" - Flush Setting - 26 photos

  I've posted many essays on this topic of "Gypsy-Flush Setting" and every time people still want to learn the 'full story'. It's my pleasure to present this topic, once again!

 

                                          ============================

A "blue stone" hole need not be the exact size of the stone just YET. The hole should be approximately <75% that of the stone. The reasons will be explained in this tutorial essay.

 The very first drilling to take place is to remove the metal where the Pavilion will be seated.

 Many stone setters rely upon the "156C" that is displayed on the top bur to create the seat inside of the hole. These 'bur teeth' are placed very closely together and will be acceptable.

 The "HSS" bur teeth as shown on the lowest bur in the photograph are 'too aggressive' for this delicate setting.

 

These 2 burs; the round and 1/2 burs are not generally used. This leaves only the 156C and the HSS burs that are used in creating 'seats' in the hole for the 'blue stone' setting.

 This is the "156C" bur that is commonly used in "Flush-Gypsy" settings. You can observe just how close the teeth are together, if I used the strong-cutting HSS bur, it would tear the metal apart while being in the 'rotating process'.

 While holding the rotating bur at a 45degree angle I'll prepare a seat in 3-4 increments inside the hole. The depth of the bur can be seen while the 'tip of the bur teeth' is at the level of the metal.

 This bur is a "High-Speed Steel" bur that I won't use. It cuts into the metal with too much force and it could ruin the chances of an accurate even cutting of a well-defined 'seat'. 

  After 'opening the hole' (carefully) to accommodate the stone, much care is needed to slide the stone into the ring/metal. I would use a "brass, or copper pusher" to secure the stone. If a steel pusher is used the chances of breaking the delicate stone are almost 80-90% positive

  Once the stone is 'resting' in the hole, now starts securing this blue stone. I will press over 'two spots of metal' to prevent any unnecessary movement.

  I would use a "Reciprocating Hammer" to lock in the stone, BUT NOT ALLOWING THE HAMMER ANVIL TO TOUCH THE STONE.

( REVIEW )

 This is the optimum depth that the stone should be in the hole. If the "Table Facet" of the stone is BELOW THE SURFACE, let it be there.

 

 While I'm hammering I will do this in 4 sections, why is this? I want the stone to be held tight and of course level to the metal. There should not be a slanting stone in the width on both sides. 

  When the stone is 100% secure, tight and level. My next step is to initiate the "Bright-Cutting" around the inside of the hole.

   Don't start any filing or smoothing of the metal surface until the 'metal cutting' has been finished.

  DON'T USE A FLAT GRAVER, why not this blade? The Flat graver will rub against the Upper Girdle Facets and leave a FACETING EFFECT ALL AROUND THE INSIDE METAL.

 The best graver is an Onglette graver that is polished on the Right Side of the blade. This will definitely be a bright contoured surface.

                        CLEANING and finishing:

  With a "Snap-On" Emery disk of a 'Medium' grade rotating paper start the smoothing of the metal. Please do not let the rotating EMERY paper get too close to the stone, or the stone will get scratched.

  

  I use now the series of two Pumice Wheels, the first will be a wheel of #180grit with a mild abrasive texture. This wheel will smooth the metal from the Emery wheel contact.

   Make sure that these wheels don't (again) touch the delicate stone.

 This particular softer Pumice wheel is of a #1,000 grit texture, why use this wheel? Instead of using a cloth polishing wheel that will ruin the surface, this Polishing Wheel will polish the metal only in the desired areas.

 

    Isn't this great to see after all of the hammering and filing that has taken place? WOW.

 You can now, if you wish very gently use your mini-ROUGE polishing wheel, but only gently at a SLOW ROTATING SPEED. 

  THIS RING IS NOW COMPLETED, this is a genuine "Piece of wearable art".

 

Drilling Holes in Wax => VIDEO link

 This wax drilling exercise seems easy, but it DOES REQUIRE VERY CAREFUL MANOEUVRING in the wax form. I suggest viewing this video a few times to understand the displayed instructions. 

 Drilling Holes in Wax (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

Moving a Hole => Video link

 Who said that it's not possible to  'MOVE A HOLE IN METAL' after viewing this video you will see just how easy it really is.

 Moving a Hole (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] - YouTube

Bright Cutting (REVIEW) => VIDEO link

This 'up-close video' shows the actual metal cutting that is transpiring during the filming along with spoken words.

Bright-Cutting Review (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

Bead Burnishing => VIDEO link

 "Bead Burnishing" is a relatively simple task, all it encompasses is a 3/8" inch bur length of steel with a round indentation at the top of this piece of steel. This indentation fits on the newly formed beads, which are all 'burnished' or rounded.

If you go to my blog you will find an essay with a multitude of photos describing this technique.

My blog address is "https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com"

Bead Burnishing - Final Cuts (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

Tool Modification on Video "A" => Video link

 All of my jewellery friends have jewellery tools of some sort, but I for one, have always had the need to modify many of them to MY OWN SPECIFICATIONS.

 Buying a tool is the easiest route to take, but modifying them is a skill all by itself. 

Gerry Lewy Video A - Intro - Tool Modification - Skills - How-To Video - Ganoksin Jewelry Making Community

Bezel Setting on 'Video link C'

 MOSTLY, anyone, can Bezel Set but with this video, I'll try and make this process an easier task. The Bezel Setting can also be seen in OUR blog in text and written words. Sometimes it's also a better 'learning curve' if the video shows how this is done.

Our contact link is https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com

 Gerry Lewy Video C - Bezel Setting - Channel Setting - How-To Video - Ganoksin Jewelry Making Community

Cluster rings with Mini-Claws. "Video D"

 Everyone has heard of "Cluster Rings" but how many have seen it set in a video format? I'm honoured to show you this technique, it's appearing also in a 'text & photo' version in my tutorial blog.  

My link to OUR blog is  https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com

  Gerry Lewy Video D - Cluster Setting - Flush Setting - How-To Video - Ganoksin Jewelry Making Community

Bead Setting. Video F in a series of 5 films

 This topic on Bead Setting is not an overnight success story. To view this video will take a few minutes, but understanding all of the subtle nuances could take many weeks.

 There are many topics in OUR blog to read with more facts on how this technique is done.

Go to OUR blog. https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com

Gerry Lewy Video F - Bead Setting - How-To Video - Ganoksin Jewelry Making Community

Princess stone in Round Claws "Video E"

This video is in a series of 5 films. It is just a short video, but the text can be found in OUR tutorial blog. Here is the link to go to https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com

 Gerry Lewy Video E - Princess Setting Round Claws - V Shaped Claws - Wedding band - How-To Video - Ganoksin Jewelry Making Community

Graver Cutting a silver surface => VIDEO link

Just what happens when you use an Onglette graver to design patterns on a silver surface?

 https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com

Graver With Silver Plate (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

 I have many essays in OUR blog to research this topic further.

Introduction to 'Cut Down' Metal Cutting => VIDEO link #2

 This intricate & delicate metal cutting & carving was taught to me ONLY 65 years ago. Now with a method for further explanating this delicate and intricate technique (using videos) here it is again. The original name for this technique is "Cut Down Setting", there is "NO CAD" involved anywhere in this process.

 The Level of Difficulty is approximately "75, out of 10".

 Go to OUR blog site at the following https://gerrysdiamondsettingessays.blogspot.com

 Introduction #2 - Cut Down Setting (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

Close-up of "Bright-Cutting" on a metal surface. VIDEO-link

 Close-Up of Bright-Cut Silver Plate (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

 This interesting feature of Diamond Setting took me only a few weeks to master during my formative learning & training 65 years ago! I used only Onglette & Flat gravers to carve into the metal. NO 'CAD' was ever used.

Engraving tools for all reasons => VIDEO link

 This is a great introduction to using Onglette gravers. It covers the shapes and how easily they can be used.

Graver With Silver Plate (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] (youtube.com)

Burs & gravers => VIDEO link

 Bezel #1 HSS Bur (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] - YouTube 

This video only lasts for a short time, but think of the new 'friends' you are now making?

Bezel Setting using your HSS bur => VIDEO link

 These "High-Speed-Steel" burs are so important in preparing seats for the large round claws. They are also very useful in Bezel Settings. My new motto is "View the video, learn & have fun".

Bezel #1 HSS Bur (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] - YouTube

4-claw, Stone Setting' #2 version => Video "B" link

 This is a '2nd version' of Claw Setting. This video only lasts for 4.5 minutes but it's worth your time in viewing it. 

 4-Claw/Prong Setting #2 (by Gerry Lewy) [PREVIEW VIDEO] - YouTube

4 videos on 'Pave' => Bead Setting VIDEO link

 These 4 videos are on "Creating Beads for Diamond Setting" aka in Pave' Setting.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atTLGL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Kq05yl5sFo&t=28swutUc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Kq05yl5sFo&t=28s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Kq05yl5sFo&t=28s

 

MANY DETAILS for "Bezel Setting" - 52 photos

 I just found some used & never-before-seen photos of Bezel settings. Many of them are very relevant to this topic, it would be a shame if I didn't show them.

 This is the preliminary shape of the "Emerald Pendant" after I did the diamond setting.

 This is the 'after' photo with the pendant chain along with an assortment of other diamond areas.

 Three other 'setters' refused to touch the 5.5 Carat, Pear-shaped Emerald. This Emerald was an ultra-delicate stone to work with, the breakage was estimated at ONLY 100%. 

 The Level of Difficulty was about 75 out of 10. Twenty-five years ago the Emerald replacement cost was $15,000.00. In today's market... pick a number.

 When I had my office, I was confronted with a myriad of projects to work on. Here are many of them. My camera was an integral tool in my bench, without it, you wouldn't be seeing any of my projects.

 I purposely drilled holes into the two ends of the Bezel as this is where the points of the stone will lay.

 This Amethyst stone had a Difficulty Level of 10 out of 10, this was due to the two sharp corners. Not to mention the very thin Bezel walls, OUCH!

  Here is the reverse photo of this insanely challenging necklace to work with. 

Just to set this Emerald this was done on a Sunday when I turned off the telephone, and radio and had no visiting clients. Three hours of total quiet.

 You can observe the few mm's of separation between the Culet of the stone to the base of the Bezel. I even measured the clearance remaining to me.

   When all of the Laser soldering was done, I started the Emerald Setting.

 To avoid any of the 'pendant chain' interfering with my fingers and tools I requested that I have a secure base on my shellac stick for the Emerald frame.

 "JOE" was a three-piece construction unit, there were multiple diamonds set into white gold. Then as everything was assembled, I set the large diamond inside of the "O".

 Just as a finishing note; here is this pendant necklace after the "Rhodium Plating" was applied.

 Bezel Settings come in many shapes and sizes. Some of them have 'shared, side bezels' to contend with. The interesting feature of this ring is that ALL OF THE CORNERS HAD TO BE WELL CLEANED. 

 I used basically bud-shaped burs to clean the corners & edges of the Princess-Cut stones.

 I kept the plastic envelope for the appraiser to evaluate Ruby. You can see how thick the claws are and not the 'spear claw' styles now seen these days.

 In this pendant, I set the diamonds first and prepared the under-bezel for this irregularly shaped stone. After my little diamonds were set I polished the frame and prepared the "V" claw settings. All that remained was to insert the large stone.

 I had the four Princess-Cut set into the ring and polished the Tube setting. To set the large diamond into the Tube setting I GENTLY folded the Tube around the diamond. 

 Many times these Bezel settings required much thinking beforehand. "what to do first, second or even next. 

 I ALWAYS 'BRIGHT-CUT' AROUND ANY TUBE-LIKE SETTING. To have thick walls around the stone is not appealing to the wearer.

  I approximated the dimensions of the diamond to the Bezel frame.

 Again, you can see the "Bright-Cutting" around the centre diamond. All of my Round stones have this quality feature.

 One setter that I knew just 'filed and trimmed' the round frame. I never went back to him for any stone-setting assistance again. 

I wasn't pleased with the 'short-cut' of quick finishing. 

  Two square-shaped Bezels and a larger bezels, which came first? All three of the Bezels were carefully prepared for eventual setting. The 2 smaller stones were set LAST, and the centre stone was set FIRST. I have another display for this pendant further in this essay.

 Even with this Semi-Bezel, I did my "Bright-Cutting", but the thickness of the overall frame required a moderately wide shape. Of course, all Channel Setting was done beforehand.

 

 All of (my) Tube settings were Bright-Cut, even a simple Tube-setting received this special attention.

 "Oh my Gosh" do I ever stop my Bright-Cutting? My 'teacher & subsequent training' taught me to take extra care in my work.

 In this photo, I hadn't started the inside cutting yet.

 The "Semi-Bezels" are ready for the 'Tripoly' polishing as I have to 'file and trim' all of the 'End-Bezels' No two bezels must inadvertently touch each other.

 When all of the cutting and filing is done THEN I'll Rouge polish the whole bracelet. I kept the metal thick just for the cutting processes.

 I don't use my "156C" Carbide, Undercutting bur, (I only use the HSS (High Speed Steel) bur instead). The reason is that those 156C teeth are too close together and don't cut deep enough.

 In preparing the Tube Bezel the metal carving is so very important.

 

 Just for "Tube Setting" earrings, I chose to use the "Tube Collet" holder as this will give it more strength and security while setting one stone.

 I examined these two Opals and admired their Bezel frames, another gemstone setter got the project.

 These 'Straight Baguettes' need to be carefully 'hammered & tightened'. This is still 'Mini-Bezel Setting', or even 'End-Bezel' whatever the name, it still needs complete care. "Bright-cutting" is always the finishing aspect of the Bezel Setting.

  THE "RECIPROCATING HAMMER, ANVIL" MUST NEVER TOUCH THE DIAMOND. This is still Bezel Setting and much care needs to be used.

                                               REVIEW on this Semi-Bezel. 

Always keep the ends of the Bezel wall 'well-trimmed' and razor sharp.

    Any preparation for setting a square stone takes many months of training. This can lead to a very productive income. But in the Bezel setting square stones are at '15 out of 10' on the Difficulty Level.

The first thing to do is to clear the corners of the Bezel, and then the Pavilion Facets need attention.

  I chose to set the outside diamonds first, then prepare the inside of the Square Bezel. (The Square Bezel needs a fully detailed essay on how this was accomplished.)

  Here is the completed item, I gently Bright-Cut the inner Bezel frame.

  You can just see the 'light cutting' of the edges around the square stones. I wanted to maintain a wide frame if my graver touched the many stone facets.... goodbye stone! So why look for problems, agree?

 My client didn't want any 'extra' cut & bead work to be done. less costs to him. I just spent more time setting the three Bezels. These Bezels had to have the corners cleared of any remaining metal. 

 This Level of Difficulty is 7 out of 10. Keep the thickness of the two walls uniform. Don't ignore any 'pre-polishing' before the stone goes in.

 The two walls MUST BE 100% WELL POLISHED & CLEAN.

 In setting any Genuine Emerald, the chances of chipping or total breakage are mind-boggling. I always keep my 10x or 15x power loupe near my fingers. 

 Even to refuse to that stone, why? If there are too many inclusions present, I don't want to pay for those inclusions. The setting looks great, in an End-Bezel there is much planning to be done.

 DON'T HAMMER ANYWHERE NEAR THE STONE. I'd use a metal 'pushing tool' instead.

 This photo could display either a 'Gypsy-Flush Setting', but this pattern falls under the topic of the Tube setting. I could name this process either 'Flush or Tube Setting', either of these names are correct.

 When the large round diamond has been set in the Bezel, the next step is to Bright-Cut the thick wall of metal. If the filing is done first, the amount of metal for 'Bright-Cutting' will be greatly reduced.

  In setting this square stone, there are so many chances of breakage, it was almost unbelievable.

 What did I do first? I drilled the three holes on either side and then started to 'pre-bead-set' the 6 diamonds.  Once this was completed, I started setting the square stone.

 I gently hammered the sides of the Bezel, followed by "Bright-Cutting" the two walls as seen here. After the Bezel was completed in the trimming and 'Pre-polishing' then I finished the Pave' setting.

 In this often-seen Semi-Bezel ring, every section of the Bezel needs to be drilled just to make a 'seat' for the diamond. Every section of the frame needs to be prepared for the Pavilion of the stone.

 NO SHORT CUTS ARE PERMITTED even if the labour costs are getting high. What are a few dollars now if the stone isn't sitting well? You can answer that question.

  Let's examine the depth of this stone, it protrudes through the bottom of the Bezel. I would never apply any heat to the stone, in removing the pendant from the shellac. This OVAL Bezel needs 'gentle care' at all times.

 As this is a very expensive Princess-Cut stone everywhere in this ring is to be Tripoly and then Rouge polished. It is after these two steps, shall we prepare for the actual stone setting?

 As always "Bright-Cutting" on both ends of the stone is much needed.

  Keep the anvil at 45 degrees while in use, you must not 'pound the metal' but only be tightening the stone. These little Tube Settings are quite delicate, treat them with care.

  For this signet ring, the bottom of the ring should be drilled open to allow light to penetrate the inside of the ring.

 The hammer anvil must never touch the stone or the stone might be endangered. 

 In this (repeated) photo you can see the teeth of the bur preparing the seat for the stone.

 

 The Diamond is sitting flat in the Tube Setting, this the correct position to have & see.

 When the Bezel seat is contoured correctly, there is no possibility in having ever a crooked stone.

  Before any preparation for the stone settings. I always 'clear out' any unwanted pieces of metal inside the round Bezel & Culet..

 This is so paramount before any setting is about to start.

 On a rare occasion I would not 'Bright-Cut' why is this? The frame was very, very thin and my graver could damage any of the Girdle Facets, my client wouldn't be too happy.

 In this wonderful '3 stone Princess setting', which of these stones gets set first? 

Always the 'top stone' nearest to the chain-loop will get first choice. As always, the Bright-Cutting is done after the trimming.

  I showed this photo earlier today, but here is a close-up! 

The first thing to do is to set the larger diamond, all that is remaining is to prepare the two Princess-cut diamonds. The Bright-Cutting of the centre stone should be done first, then afterwards do the same for the smaller stones.

But with these two stones, there are only three sides to each bezel. I will still "Bright-Cut" each of the three Bezels. That is a 'normal finishing' technique for me.