"C.A.D." aka "Computer Aided Designing" - with 41 photographs

 "C.A.D." aka "Computer Aided Designing" no mistake about it, this is a fantastic program, it saves much tedium in Diamond Setting. I'm now going to show what takes place from the original computer rendering to the last step in production. Thankfully, I photographed every step while making a pair of large gent's rings.

 In EACH ring, there are 210 diamonds, plus one larger (0.08 point diamond) in the center. These very small stones measured 0.088 mm. Remembering, that I'm not using any 0.01 diamonds.
 These rings were designed to use 160 diamonds on the top of the ring, with another 42 stones around the surrounding area. For your information, all of my Diamond Setting was done WITHOUT any use of an expensive microscope. With this introduction, let's now get started.

 With my example of graver cutting, I wanted to show you all the labour in Bright-Cutting.  I would be remiss if I avoided the preliminary cutting that takes place.

 Just another view that allows my metal cutting prior to setting the stones.

 As an afterthought, I needed to show how 3 "Square stones" are set in this ring. Please observe that I used my Flat-Graver #40 to Bright-Cut the metal. No, I did not use any Triangular file with a #4 cut to clean the inside edge. I used only my finely shaped Flat graver.

 Once I set this Pear-Shape stone and the Pave' set gemstones I just lightly polished the surrounding metal. Again all of the metal was Bright-Cut BEFORE ANY STONES WENT IN.

In the next two views, I "rough-cut" (outlined) and then "Bright-Cut" the metal. Why at this point did I do all of the cutting now? I wanted no residual metal remaining after the stones went in.

 The very last step in this setting process is the "Bead Forming" over the many stones. After a light polishing, I'd attach the 4-claw head..NEVER BEFORE. 

I'm now starting to explain the many steps in this Computer Designing process. This is where the diamond setting starts to get easy and with much less labour.

 This round disk (watch bezel) was crafted just for one purpose and that was to set 42 uniform in shape, round diamonds.

But, all Bright-Cutting MUST BE DONE PRIOR TO ANY GEMSTONE SETTING. WHY now? I need to have full access to Bright-Cutting with my graver.

My watchmaker had to make sure that this Bezel fit against the watch frame.

 The next item on my list was to start on these two rings. There were 420 diamonds ready to be set. You can see that there is absolutely no space in or around any of the stones. 

 The whole effect was to have a full array of shining facets aimed at the wearer. 

   What you are seeing is literally 5 days of diamond setting. with the Bezel and then the two rings. AGAIN, no microscope was used in any of my intricate setting.

 Why did I use CAD in my "Guinness World Record" patterns? This saved me so much time in just Pave setting the mini stones. Every claw and bead were of uniform height and thickness.

The numbers "8 & 7" are lucky numbers in the Asian communities, as I was wanting to explore my marketing for them. Both of these metal numbers were specifically made separately and with easier labour involved in using my bead pushers.

Can you imagine the total labour time involved without having CAD?

 Now let's now get back to these large rings. You can see just how thin the metal is where I planned to drill the holes for setting. I measured the metal thickness was only 0.75mm this was not at all acceptable.

 My client had little understanding of the complexities and care of the diamond setting, (red flags were starting to show)

Here is another up-close view of the thickness, what do you think I had to do now?

 I contacted my CAD designer to assist me in this predicament. Both of us came up with a solution and that was to completely refurbish the watch bezel, ring top, and sides.

From a pitiful initial construction to a pleasing finished metal ring. 

Here are a few of the diamonds that I was going to be working with...just so very small in size. Each stone had only 2 mini claws per stone.

  For reference, I used my digital calipers to measure the sizes of the diamonds.

Here are 195 diamonds all laid out.

I marked the little beads with a black marker as I wanted to keep each section of 15+ stones separated. If I avoided the bead markings, I would have "lost my spot" where each stone would be placed.

 Every diamond had two beads and every stone had to be Bright-Cut as well.

 You can now see how the layout is slowly coming together. I had to make sure that I didn't drop any stones.

 I had to make sure that I didn't sneeze.😅

 Here is the Rolex watch with all of the 42 stones nicely set and Bright-Cut.

 

 Here is another CAD series of disks that had four colours per section. I placed one colour in each disk for easier placement or eventual layout. 

At the 4 bars, I used my Flat graver to secure all of the stones along the inside edge.

Again, there was no microscope in any of my gemstone setting.

 In reviewing these ring tops and disks are the initial computer rendering.

 I only ask that prior to any CAD training is that you and everyone learn how to set diamonds. If not, there could be many problems being at your bench.

 If you have any questions, kindly contact me at "gerrylewy18(gmail.com".

From Wax => 1-Carat size, Diamond Ring!

 I'm not a 'talented' wax-carver, but I've seen many "Wax-Carvers" give me guidance in creating waxes and then using these techniques to write this tutorial essay.

 I'm not using any "Computer-Aided Designing" for this essay, as it's too much of a 'learning curve' to introduce you to this essay. Plus, not everyone will have this expensive computer program, I'm showing you everything made by my "hands & fingers".

 BTW, If you don't approve of my techniques, you can email me  "gerrylewy18(at)gmail.com".

 "Taf Schaefer" (from Ganoksin), asked me to give her some guidance in making a gold ring for women who 'live and enjoy their very adventurous, lifestyle'.

 A 4-claw, or even a 6-claw-setting, is so very dangerous in wearing their stone in these delicate conditions as these might get (quickly) lost or have some of the claws move.

 Taf is making (or has made) a 1-carat diamond ring, but this ring must be made so that there won't be any problems with wearing it during their "very active lifestyle". I now see her reasons for creating her "Tube-Set", 1-carat diamond ring.

 At first, I hesitated, but after her repeated questioning, I proceeded to make this into a tutorial-teaching essay but using a 6.5mm cubic zirconia instead. 

  Please be forewarned, many wax carvers have their own professional techniques, I'm only doing the best under the circumstances.

 I, as a Diamond Setter, will do my very best to show how to initially make a 6.5mm "Tube-Setting" and then "heat" this stone into the tube opening, removing it for the actual metal casting".

 Shall we start now?

1) This is a photograph of what "Taf" is asking about. You can see just how much gold will be used around the Girdle of the 1-carat Diamond. We've decided upon a rather simple pattern, but sturdy enough to hold this expensive diamond. We decided NOT TO USE C.A.D. (Computer-Aided Designing) as we both want to explore other options. 

2) Please measure accurately the precise millimeters of the diameter of the stone. Here the stone is 11.01 mm in width.

3) Lay your stone on a wax form. I would prefer to slowly heat this stone so it won't move during the next few stages of wax shaping.

3) I will NOW remove what wax pieces that aren't to be used. Slowly you can see the shape take place.

4) At last this is a nice-looking TUBE. At this point, I put a ring of wax wire all around the Girdle of the stone. 

This wire will hold the diamond at all times. YES, some of the wire will cover the stone, remember we are not using a claw-mounted ring, but only "A FULL-BEZEL TOP".

5) I will now remove the 'heated stone' from its "new home" and core out the inside of the wax frame. If I don't do this, it will just be a "chock full of wax" for casting into metal. This must be hollowed out, with a specifically made round bur with only 3 teeth.

 This bur carves & removes all the wax that is not required, nice isn't it?

6) With your "Exacta-knife", cut back as much of this Tube as to your needs.

7) Once you've decided on the length of the tube, I would trim as much of the bottom section that you will feel comfortable with.

 8) If by any chance you are not totally satisfied with your results, please keep the wireframe that is made for your large stone. You can always make another tube, I would.

9) Here are the two samples that I'm using for this essay.

I sincerely hope that this essay sheds some light on how to prepare your wax carving process. Gerry Lewy!