"C.A.D." aka "Computer Aided Designing" - with 41 photographs

 "C.A.D." aka "Computer Aided Designing" no mistake about it, this is a fantastic program, it saves much tedium in Diamond Setting. I'm now going to show what takes place from the original computer rendering to the last step in production. Thankfully, I photographed every step while making a pair of large gent's rings.

 In EACH ring, there are 210 diamonds, plus one larger (0.08 point diamond) in the center. These very small stones measured 0.088 mm. Remembering, that I'm not using any 0.01 diamonds.
 These rings were designed to use 160 diamonds on the top of the ring, with another 42 stones around the surrounding area. For your information, all of my Diamond Setting was done WITHOUT any use of an expensive microscope. With this introduction, let's now get started.

 With my example of graver cutting, I wanted to show you all the labour in Bright-Cutting.  I would be remiss if I avoided the preliminary cutting that takes place.

 Just another view that allows my metal cutting prior to setting the stones.

 As an afterthought, I needed to show how 3 "Square stones" are set in this ring. Please observe that I used my Flat-Graver #40 to Bright-Cut the metal. No, I did not use any Triangular file with a #4 cut to clean the inside edge. I used only my finely shaped Flat graver.

 Once I set this Pear-Shape stone and the Pave' set gemstones I just lightly polished the surrounding metal. Again all of the metal was Bright-Cut BEFORE ANY STONES WENT IN.

In the next two views, I "rough-cut" (outlined) and then "Bright-Cut" the metal. Why at this point did I do all of the cutting now? I wanted no residual metal remaining after the stones went in.

 The very last step in this setting process is the "Bead Forming" over the many stones. After a light polishing, I'd attach the 4-claw head..NEVER BEFORE. 

I'm now starting to explain the many steps in this Computer Designing process. This is where the diamond setting starts to get easy and with much less labour.

 This round disk (watch bezel) was crafted just for one purpose and that was to set 42 uniform in shape, round diamonds.

But, all Bright-Cutting MUST BE DONE PRIOR TO ANY GEMSTONE SETTING. WHY now? I need to have full access to Bright-Cutting with my graver.

My watchmaker had to make sure that this Bezel fit against the watch frame.

 The next item on my list was to start on these two rings. There were 420 diamonds ready to be set. You can see that there is absolutely no space in or around any of the stones. 

 The whole effect was to have a full array of shining facets aimed at the wearer. 

   What you are seeing is literally 5 days of diamond setting. with the Bezel and then the two rings. AGAIN, no microscope was used in any of my intricate setting.

 Why did I use CAD in my "Guinness World Record" patterns? This saved me so much time in just Pave setting the mini stones. Every claw and bead were of uniform height and thickness.

The numbers "8 & 7" are lucky numbers in the Asian communities, as I was wanting to explore my marketing for them. Both of these metal numbers were specifically made separately and with easier labour involved in using my bead pushers.

Can you imagine the total labour time involved without having CAD?

 Now let's now get back to these large rings. You can see just how thin the metal is where I planned to drill the holes for setting. I measured the metal thickness was only 0.75mm this was not at all acceptable.

 My client had little understanding of the complexities and care of the diamond setting, (red flags were starting to show)

Here is another up-close view of the thickness, what do you think I had to do now?

 I contacted my CAD designer to assist me in this predicament. Both of us came up with a solution and that was to completely refurbish the watch bezel, ring top, and sides.

From a pitiful initial construction to a pleasing finished metal ring. 

Here are a few of the diamonds that I was going to be working with...just so very small in size. Each stone had only 2 mini claws per stone.

  For reference, I used my digital calipers to measure the sizes of the diamonds.

Here are 195 diamonds all laid out.

I marked the little beads with a black marker as I wanted to keep each section of 15+ stones separated. If I avoided the bead markings, I would have "lost my spot" where each stone would be placed.

 Every diamond had two beads and every stone had to be Bright-Cut as well.

 You can now see how the layout is slowly coming together. I had to make sure that I didn't drop any stones.

 I had to make sure that I didn't sneeze.😅

 Here is the Rolex watch with all of the 42 stones nicely set and Bright-Cut.

 

 Here is another CAD series of disks that had four colours per section. I placed one colour in each disk for easier placement or eventual layout. 

At the 4 bars, I used my Flat graver to secure all of the stones along the inside edge.

Again, there was no microscope in any of my gemstone setting.

 In reviewing these ring tops and disks are the initial computer rendering.

 I only ask that prior to any CAD training is that you and everyone learn how to set diamonds. If not, there could be many problems being at your bench.

 If you have any questions, kindly contact me at "gerrylewy18(gmail.com".