Channel Setting in rings => 22 photos

  The Channel Setting rings are not for the 'first-time' stone setter. This skill lies within the realm of many years of stone setting; even I had a 'difficult time' grasping all of the subtle nuances of channel setting. (My difficulties are that I am Dyslexic and I have a learning disability)

 I practised on silver (.925) for the first couple of years, and so should YOU!

 The most important aspect of the 'square stone' setting is that the stones must never have spaces in between any of them.

The recess of the channel setting must be thoroughly polished before any stone setting is done.

 

 The Reciprocating Hammer anvil must NEVER come in contact with the delicate gemstone..NEVER!

 The anvil should push the metal 'towards and over' the girdle of the stone. Try to avoid any spaces in between the stones, as seen here. 

  The row of gemstones must lie flat and not be crooked.

                        ERRORS IN SETTING BAGUETTES

 This photo was copied from the internet, as it showed multiple stones being set crookedly. There are 'Tapered', as well as 'Straight Baguettes', this is including one stone missing....YUK!

 

  All of the wedding band diamonds shouldn't have any space in between any of the gemstones.

As you can see in this photo, there is a space, and this is not permitted.

 When there is a time when there are "Princess stones" to be set, please be very careful that these stones don't move. 

 During the Reiprocating Hammering procedure, any vibration might cause the stones to move sideways, thus resulting in severe structural damage to the stones.

 During the hammering process, DO NOT APPLY EXTRA PRESSURE ON THE CORNERS. This can be seen in this photo.

 The hammer anvil MUST NEVER TOUCH THE STONE at all costs. This can be seen in this ultra-delicate wedding band.

 In this photo, you can see that care wasn't taken, and one diamond has already broken.

 In hammering even a few diamonds, the anvil MUST NEVER GET TOO CLOSE TO THE DIAMONDS. If the vibrating hammer touches any stone, it very easily causes havoc to the gemstone.

 This process moved the metal OVER THE GIRDLE. If the metal gets squeezed, then the metal trimming will be made too thin.

  ALWAYS PRE-POLISH THE CHANNEL OPENING, as it is impossible to polish the metal after the stones are set.

 In this GREAT photo under extreme 800x power magnification, you can see how the bearings are being created. I used a "156C" (carbide) bur to facilitate the metal cutting.

  The first stone to be set is where the large diamond has been set. You can see that the Culet is in the centre of the 4 claws. LOOKS NICE, agree?

 The separation of the Channel wall should be where the Princess stone end bezel is lying.

 This gem setting photo is the epitome of a well-crafted wedding band. All that remains is to present it to your client.

 Although this pendant was manufactured over 25 years ago, I still enjoy looking at this creation.

 The first stone that was set was the one where the chain will be placed. No diamond should be touching the gold chain. EVER!

 In the extra channel ring photo it displays the hammer hitting spots. There is no need to hit the metal 'hard or heavy'. Only light tapping is required. If continual hitting is done, then the metal gets too thin for filing.

EXCLUSIVE "EMERALD" Channel Setting => 5 photos

 On 'Ganoksin & Orchid', I have read about many beginners & also intermediate-level jewellers posting questions on how to channel set gems. 

The "Level of Difficulty" lies at 18 on the 10-point Scale.

 I will fill the void that I hadn't explained, just how these delicate stones can be set. I found the exact photos that will make your job much easier than just words on a page. (Allow me to help you more with some extra time.)

 During my 9 years of apprenticeship, my 'fantastic' teacher stated that this was not an easy task. Those wonderful years of learning are now for YOU to share with me.

 The technique involved in setting "Princess-Cut" square gemstones can be easily found in this tutorial blog.

 The 'best' bur to use in this project is a bud & round bur. Careful in using a round bur, as this requires cutting multiple angles.

 A round bur only gives you one basic cutting angle. We are literally carving numerous angles in an area that conforms to a stone with various angles. (This takes a lot of skill.)

 This bracelet has 11 individual links to set 55 Emeralds. A round-shaped bur will be used in special areas for carving out the corners.

 Here are the 55 Emeralds that will be used in these links. You will see which stones I selected to use. I aimed for colour, size and shape.

 I always have 'extra' stones, just in case I need to exchange one stone for another.

 I selected which burs I will use. I especially used a round bur to carefully carve the corners of each bezel.

 You will notice that many of the stones are of the same colour. (The links on the left are darker due to the lighting conditions when I was taking this photo.)