"Added 1/2 Round burs" (ver.#2) => 12 'STILL MORE' photos

  In this "version #2" on the same topic, I found more photos for the '1/2-round burs'. 

===============================

  These special burs cannot be found ready-made for you in any tool supplier. YOU MUST CREATE THESE YOURSELF, SORRY!

This is a rough hand drawing showing the basic instructions.

 When you are grinding your new bur, keep the bur temperature 'cool to the touch'. Heat is it's enemy!

 This is what the new modified 1/2 bur looks like. The bur size should be the same size as the Cabochon stone that is needed.

  Always keep the edges of the bur sharp, as these edges will be cutting into the metal of your choice.

  Here is a comparison photo of the 'before and after'. Always keep the bur edges sharp, or the bur won't cut into the metal.

 When you are applying pressure to the bur, keep rotating it at all times. Don't apply pressure continually as the heat will increase, thus making the bur to quickly heat up.

 

 While holding the rotating bur in your fingers, if you feel any slight amount of heat...STOP and drop the hot bur into a beaker of cold water. These are signs that the bur is getting softened and becoming useless.

  In this rough drawing, is what is happening, as the final result will be a fantastic Cabochon-shaped cutting bur.

  You can see the ultra-hot pieces of metal being ejected from the bur.

 Always be wary of the hot shards of metal so that they don't hit your eyes. I suggest wearing protective glasses during this delicate procedure.

  If you 'feel' that the bur is starting to get warm, quickly drop it into a beaker of cold water. This could be a sign of losing its tensile strength.

What is a "Curved & Joined wires" Engagement ring? => 7 photos

 I don't know if this is the correct name, but I'll use it anyway. The purpose of this ring is to expose as much light as possible.

 Many of the 'wires' in this ring need to be 'prepolished', but not after the gemstones have been completed.

 I suggest using a 'magnetic tumbler' to aid you in this initial process. If you feel that prepolishing will assist you with 'pumice wheel' cleaning, so be it. Just get all of the casting grains removed.

  I prefer to use a gentle pair of plier jaws to grip the claws. DON'T PUSH OR PULL THE CLAWS TOGETHER. We are dealing with delicate stones, and any aggressive movement will damage the stones and ruin the claws.

 Before any stone setting, it is advisable to clean the 'claw basket' where the Pavilion will be resting. There is no possible process in this cleaning of the metal casting when the stones are set.

 When you are selecting your stones to be set. ALWAYS ENSURE THE SIZES AND COLOURS ARE WHAT ARE NEEDED.

 When you get the shoulder stones set, inspect the claws and their layout. In this photo, you can see many errors in the setting. The outside large stone is incorrectly placed and should be beside the centre stone. The claws beside the centre stone are not evenly positioned. This is a major flaw in the delicate stone setting.

   Inspect the centre stone for any flaws or structural defects before the final completion.

 From a simple stone setting experience, we have uncovered many problems. Always be aware of them. Thanks for this reading.