Diamond Setting & Metal Cutting. #2, of 2 examples. =>11 photos

 This next (ultra difficult) example of metal cutting was this insanely technical pattern.   These two examples of metal cutting were done in plain wedding bands. The possibilities for errors in cutting are about 90%. 

 We, the group of 6 diamond setters in one private room, were then made an elite group of individuals. Let me first tell you that the stress level was quite high. If one setter made an error in gemstone setting, the rest of us knew about it in seconds. (Profanity was kept to an absolute minimum.)

 This particular 'Scale of Difficulty' is estimated at about '15 out of 10'.

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 After drilling the initial hole, I inked where the 5-pointed star would be placed & cut.

  

 As shown in my previous essay, my Onglet graver used my 'inked pattern' as a guide for my design. My graver will DEEPLY cut the pattern, while leaving the '5 inked spots' for making new Beads.

 I start my metal cutting from the hole. If I start any place else, I could have lines in the metal made from the Onglet base of the blade. 'Cleanliness is paramount.

 I scribed in the metal, 5 more spots, why MORE? These 5 spots are where the 'outer star' pattern will be situated & then cut.

With great care, I started the final STAR pattern. This outer design must be EXACTLY positioned, allowing the design to be made.

 All of these cuts should start at the hole. If the base of the graver touches the metal, a faint line will then appear. This faint line will cause many problems in cleaning.

 These two 'STAR points' should be in line with each other. The outer STAR is more important than the inner cutting. It is THE FINAL PATTERN REMAINING TO BE CONTINUALLY SEEN. 

BRIGHT CUTTING

 We've finished with the outline, or 'rough cutting'. Now comes the intricate metal carving.

 YES, I will use all of the edges & corners of the Flat #40 graver. I make sure that all of the points of the 2 star-points coincide with each other. I will use my Onglet #2 points to help me in this procedure.

 I'm using both the Onglet #1 & #2 gravers to execute all of the deep & straight lines in the metal. My graver cutting starts just beside the new beads. I don't want any gravers to make any faint lines in the metal. Cleaning them could be a major problem.

 If you are exceeding in using your Flat #40 graver, then by all means do a few 'touch-ups' where necessary.

 

 I'd suggest doing any fanciful touches (Milgrain) prior to any stone setting.

 REMEMBER, start your cutting where the hole is. This will avoid any problems in ruining the new beads.

 

                                                BIG MAJOR WOOPS! Why?

 The 'two points of the stars' are not joining each other. This will cause you many problems, but how can this be repaired?

 The only solution is to recut the metal...GENTLY, where the points should be. Carefully, lean your graver to one side and then gently recut where necessary. Don't use your Flat graver to fix it. I won't.

Diamond Setting & Metal Cutting. #1, of 2 examples => 7 photos

 During my 9-year apprenticeship, I was fortunate to use my gravers extensively. This got to a point where I was one of 6 setters in the company who enjoyed this metal-cutting process. The remaining 5 setters just couldn't get the techniques down correctly.

 As this was long before CAD (computer-aided design) came along, we had to cut the intricate patterns one ring at a time. Although it was tiring, I managed to excel in this craft. This was ONLY 66 YEARS AGO.

 Here are the exact shapes and patterns as they were made for this company. ENJOY, eh!

This official I.D. photo is #404.

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  I drilled a hole into the silver, as silver is quite soft for this intricate metal cutting.

 I used my #2, shaped Onglet graver to cut a 'V' shape, leaving two metal pegs. These two 'pegs' will eventually be future beads that will be moved over the gemstone.

 These 'V' cuttings must be dug DEEP into the metal. Please, there are no shallow cuttings. Where at the edges of the 'V' there should be two cuts (as shown here). These deep cuts are very important for the ongoing pattern that's now being created.

 When you've started to cut the initial outline, cut again with your graver. Each subsequent cut with this blade, must be almost held vertical. By this, I mean DON'T LEAN THE GRAVER  ON AN ANGLE.

 Repeat your metal cutting until this (photo) shape has now appeared.

 With your same Onglet graver #2, a secondary line should be cut carefully cut to create a line. 

Start your cutting without 'slipping' along the metal. This is not easy, as much care should be taken.

 Start your line cutting from the middle of the line and STOP right at the corner. This action will give you exactly a clean 'pattern' cut.

 REPEAT THESE LINES OF CUTTING DEEP. We need a deep line just to make access for the Flat graver cutting that will NOW start.

 Initiate the first Flat Graver cut at the BASE OF THE "V" and finish at the middle of the pattern. On a Scale of 10 for Difficulty, this is a definite 10. 

 I'm using a #40 width Flat graver for any of my metal cuttings. As you can see, my Flat graver cuttings start where the beads are located. From the point, I'll extend my graver cut DEEP and NOT ALLOWING THE GRAVER TO LEAN ON ONE SIDE.

   After many weeks of your practising,  you will succeed in creating patterns like these.