"Metal Cutting with various blades => 21 photos

 I know that many of these photos have been seen in previous tutorial essays. But there is nothing wrong with repeating a few of them again.

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 Why are there two screws in this one handle? The answer is very simple: if your "locking screws" on the handle get worn from continual tightening, the other "locking screw" will take over in the tightening process.

This is called a "Thumb Guard" because it protects the thumb from being cut by the underside of the graver blade. Trust me, this sharp edge underneath can cause damage to the skin.

 This type of stone setting is aptly named "2-Bead Setting". In this version of gem-setting, this is a delicate process of setting stones. I use two varieties of blades, "Flat" and an "Onglet" shaped blade.

 In this version of Pave Setting, I will specifically use only the Onglet-shaped blade. The reason is that I need to Bright-Cut on curves around the stones. Flat gravers cannot give me the curvature that is needed.

 On this heart-shaped pendant, I will first use a fine-width Onglette blade #1. This blade will create a basic 'rough cut' that will give me the very first line of cutting. 

The LINE OF CUTTING MUST BE EXACTLY AT THE EDGE OF THE 'SETTING HOLE'. 

 The graver must cut into the metal numerous times to have a good preparation for the Bright Cutting.

 Here is another technique, but using "3-Beads" for stone setting. You can see many areas where to use the "Flat" graver.

 This photo shows a "4-Bead" technique, but using both the Onglette and Flat gravers to cut these intricate patterns.

 A highly polished Onglette is the required blade for "Right-Sided" metal cutting. Tool suppliers don't sell them in this high finish; the setter (you) must do the modification.

 In this blog, I will demonstrate how this technique is prepared.

 

 In using a Flat graver, high quality is required in the preparation of the blade. If there is an error in the preparation of the flat graver tip, the end result will be poor in the 'metal cutting department'.

 Only a thin Onglette graver #0, or a graver #1 can get inside close-knit areas. I can now easily cut lines in the metal with little effort.

A Flat graver easily cuts along the surface of the metal. No Onglette graver is able to cut in this fashion.

 No matter how old the graver is, just as long as it fits into your 'adjustable graver handle', it will be good to use.

 As I mentioned, I'm using a Flat graver number #40 and nothing wider.

 On one of my heart-shaped pendants, I thought of setting some very colourful gemstones. This includes extra metal-cutting with my gravers; I've totally enhanced the overall appearance of the pendant. 

 

  This is my chosen Flat graver; the number "N-12" refers to number #40 in our North American series of blades.

 Pendants of this nature are kept on a shellac stick, which makes them easier to hold.

 All of these gravers and their shapes were bought from the tool supplier. The long blade had to be hand-cut and shaped by this author. The small blades are the result of many months of constant use. I use an 'adjustable graver handle' because it allows me to use even the shortest graver.

 This is my inventory of gravers, along with extra blades, if so required.

 Even the shortest graver can still be used for many more months.

 These cuts are the result of a "Flat" graver; you will notice that the cuts are free of any scratches or defects.

 Here is an example of a very bright "Bright Cutting" process. There is a mirror-like reflection done with a Flat Graver with a  #40 width. You could also use an Onglette graver that is highly polished on the right side (if you are right-handed).

  Here is another pendant that is showing only the shiny metal cutting on the inside of the frame.

 Flat gravers are not good on curves, and only an Onglette graver will succeed in working on these patterns.

  ALWAYS EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENTLY SHAPED GRAVERS. DON'T LIMIT YOURSELF TO JUST THE BASIC GRAVER SHAPES. 

 Explore other blades with the help of your tool supplier; they are there to help & guide you. I did this when I was learning my profession 65 years ago!

 

Does a hardware store sell jewellery accessories? => 15 photos

  I needed some inexpensive jewellery tools, so I went to my local hardware store on a whim. A surprise awaited me.

 Oh my gosh, all of these 5 brushes for only $5.95. I could use them to keep my bench in the utmost clean condition.

When you are cleaning out your polishing machine, you could wear the glove that came with the 'paint package'.

 In Canada, we use metric units, including the original pricing system. I paid more than $4.99 in a Toronto tool supplier store.

 This is like getting two surprises in one package, wire and wire cutters.

Can you imagine 2 pliers for only $6.99? What a bargain, eh?

 

  These pliers have inside of the jaws that are serrated, that great for grasping items.

In Canada, French is our second national language. In case you need to join multiple parts of a jewellery item, you have wire to assist you. This wire is for no extra charge. WOW, eh!

 Where would you get 6 pieces of precision screws in one package?

    Three wire brushes to clean your files clean of precious metal.

 I think that this 'mini-mirror set' is very useful for finding those items behind your bench, agree?

 I'm so very sure that these heavy hammers will come in handy just once, so is the cost of them worth the purchase?

 These ultra-strong wire brushes are just fantastic for cleaning the teeth of your files.

 These 3 little wire brushes are just what you need in keeping your mini-files clean. Imagine buying one package and getting three for the price of one?

 These hammers are very useful in the workshops of jewellers who need to bend metal.

Always be on the guard for 'alternate' sources of tools. 

Go to your neighbourhood hardware store for additional surprises!

Plugged holes in your waxes => 10 photos

 You've just removed your two waxes from your rubber mold and you find that many of the holes need to be cleaned. What must & should you do now?

 When you contact your tool supplier, ask them for a "three-tooth" wax-cleaning bur. This bur (as shown) will gently remove the unwanted wax from the plugged holes.

 This is a great picture of many plugged holes and wax residue. This wax is not ready for metal casting yet.

 

 This is the 3-tooth bur being inserted into the rear of the wax. Upon viewing this wax casting, there is much to clean. (OUCH!)

 DO NOT USE YOUR "ROUND SHAPED, SETTING BURS" to remove any of the unwanted wax. This 3-toothed bur will do it for you with no problem.

These holes are not round and should be recut into a round opening. It would be best if ALL OF THE HOLES were round; if not, the stone setting process will be hampered by crooked stones.

This pattern is aptly named "AZURE". It fits the underside of a hollowed-out opening in a large ring. This metal fitting sits against the finger. These holes must be opened (gently and carefully) by using the 3-tooth cutting bur.

 There are many holes in this (interesting) "Casino pendant" filled with wax. Examine every hole and do this procedure before your metal casting.

 BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE CLEANING, don't bend the thin wax.

 I found that the cause of so many plugged holes was a defect in the rubber mould. This is not uncommon, as under extreme tightening pressure of the new mould, the molten rubber leaks into other parts of the pattern. 

 The only way to clean this wax is to start the cleaning process from the rear. Why is this? There won't be any sort of damage to the much-needed claws in front.

Old 18 Karat ring. => 7 photos

 This ring was crafted in Russia many decades ago, with the "Hammer & Sickle" trademark and is (750) 18K gold. 

 These are the two identification numbers that the manufacturer used for their records.

 These claws are holding the 'thick' stone as best as possible under the circumstances.

 The girdle of the stone IS NOT UNIFORM IN ITS WIDTH, and this can be a major problem during the stone setting procedure.

  In this photo of the Girdle, the girdle appears to be 'moderately thin'. The gemstone setter must have had a challenge deciding where to place the stone and into which series of claws to set it.

 

 Why is this ring so interesting? It's unusual to see a ring with 14 claws holding the Amethyst center stone.

 The 'Fish -Tail' setting appears to be VERY WELL CRAFTED & DESIGNED.

 This process of stone setting, in my estimation, has been 'A WORK OF ART'.

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The thickness of the 'Crown & Table Facets' then thin on the other side must have been an ongoing challenge to the setter. 

 He had to be rather careful in placing the stone into the claws and making allowances for the odd-shaped faceting that took place.

 I know from the history of earlier faceting programs. Most, or all of the gemstones were 'hand faceted', thus leaving much to today's setter's ability in setting these odd-shaped stones.

   I know for a fact that all of the areas of this ring were polished BEFORE THE CENTER STONE WAS SET.