How do you grind your graver for stone setting. => 12photos

  I've covered this topic many times in 'our blog'. One of our readers thinks that this topic should be explained again. I will display photos and text in detail. I'll write as if I am shaping each graver for myself. 

 This photo shows that the very end of the graver is being reduced in length, as it must enter the handle easily.

  

 The preliminary shaping as seen here must be carefully carved. It must be kept cool at all times as to prevent overheating, lest the steel gets softened. We don't want this to happen, do we?

 Already you can see a tint of 'brown', that is where the graver got overheated. 

 Thankfully, it won't interfere with the rest of the shaping against the high-speed rotating grinding wheel.

 All of my gravers are HSS, namely "High Speed Steel". These ID letters it lets me know that this FLAT graver (GLARDON) was made in Sweden. The number "10" refers to the (thin) width.

               KEEP YOUR GRAVER COOL AT ALL TIMES.

 After a few graver shaping, you will notice the wheel is slowly being shaped. This is quite normal, as it will make your own shaping a lot more easier. Don't forget to keep your blade COOL.

 Always wear a pair of Latex gloves and of course wear protective glasses. The shards of steel being thrown off are your constant enemies. 

   The time of this process, still takes me about 1/2 hour, from start to finish. Plus another 1/2 hour for the oilstone finishing. Speed is not the most important aspect, but preparing the graver for the months ahead.

This graver is like a surgical blade, as the front of the tool is used to cut precise designs in metal.

 This photo is the epitome of "Flat Graver Cutting". All metal sculpturing was done before any stone went in.

 This photo shows the 'before & after' shaping on the bench grinder.

 This my assortment of gravers being made ready to be inserted into various 'adjustable handles'. Instead of having a large number of handles in my bench, I'll just have 2-3 that will be used or exchanged. Clutter is the arch enemy of a 'setters bench'.

     I hope that essay was informative and as well as educational.

Why do we use "Polishing Papers"? => 7 photos

 "Polishing Papers" are the most reasonably priced pieces of paper that there is in any tool store, or online.

 Their sole purpose is to improve the surface of any graver. They can transform a roughly hewn piece of steel, to shine like the famous "Hubble Telescope".

 The grit textures of the papers being shown in this essay, are what I use constantly. I always say: 'If it's good enough for me, then it'll be good enough for your tools'.

 

 Without a smooth surface, the setters labour will be totally wasted.

  These numbers being shown on the wooden sticks are not for casual identification. They are there for a purpose, that sole purpose is to clarify the texture of the polishing paper.

 The #800 grit means that the granules of silicone are closely attached to the paper. But, the granules of the #1,000 grit are more closer together than the #800 paper. 

 Why would I use a "soft core", drafting pencil? 

 The answer is simple. The very soft lead, gets in between the pores of the paper and renders the polishing paper at least 50% more softer. This will give the setter a grit of #800 to now a new grit of #1,200 without buying any additional sheets of paper.

 

 Here are 8 sheets of polishing paper. The paper on the far right, is basically a (rough) "Emery Paper" of  #240 grit.

 The total 8 grit textures are as follows:

#240, #400, #600, #800,  #1,000, #1,200, #1,600, #1,800. 

 If you wish to use the soft core pencil, each grade can be altered smoother without buying additional polishing papers. You can now have 16 sheets of paper at no extra charge. Nice eh?

 

 I use a wooden board that I'll buy at the local paint store for only a few (cheap) dollars and wrap that board with paper. 

Now compare a few dollars to a new insanely expensive rotating 6" disk with your attached piece of paper.

 Each of these sticks can be 8" inches in length & 3" inches wide. 

  

  Instead of buying additional sticks of wood, I have another idea for you. On one side of each board as an example, I suggest the #800 grit, then on the reverse side, the "pencil enhanced" grit of #1,200 texture. INTERESTING TECHNIQUE?

The shiny surfaces are all 50% => grit increased <=.