How to 'repair' the damaged Bead Burnisher tool? => #1, of 2 essays. => 9 photos

 Supposing that you've used your Pave, 'Bead Burnisher' for many weeks 'nonstop'. You now see that the tip of this tool looks worn. What now? We can easily fix it (with some training).

 This burnisher that was bought at your tool supply office is made into "High Speed Steel" also known as 'hardened steel'.

 Just to soften it again for getting it repaired, would have been be a difficlt process. All that is required now is to heat the tip until it gets absolutely 'RED HOT'.

 The next step is to let it rest until it gets cool enouph to hold in your fingers. We only need to apply heat to the forward tip of the burnisher, not the full length. (As shown in this photo) 

 

    This is the distance from the tool to the tip of the flame. I use a pair of pliers to hold the steel tip.

   There are two flame jets, the INNER (Blue) FLAME IS THE HOTTEST, further away will give a cooler heat.

 I'm only using this type of portable, mini-torch. It has an adjustable 'on & off' flame tip, which is great for this project.

  This is the optimum distance from the 'flame tip, to the bead burnisher'.

 Here you can see the tip of the flame doing the extreme heating. We need a RED HOT BURNISHER TIP. The rest of the length does not need to be heated.

 DON'T DROP THE BURNISHER INTO COLD WATER. The steel is sufficiently softened for the next step of repairing the damaged burnisher tip.

      

                     IMPORTANT NOTES FOR YOU!

1) Water cooling will quickly reharden the steel again, we don't want that right now. 

2) Just let the hot burnisher AIR COOL BY ITSELF, agree?

 Here are the two Bead Burnishers that I intend to repair.

 I let this burnisher cool against my metal bench tray.

  My next essay will demonstrate how to 'reharden the steel' tip.

 This is my version of "METALLURGY" at the basic level.

What does a "FLAT, graver" actually look like? => 10 photos

 Here are my well used Flat gravers. Each of them are HSS (High Speed Steel) which will last me for over one YEAR+ each, or more.

 During the past many months, I've discussed the many shapes of "FLAT" gravers. I will write about Onglette in future essays.                  

                                 =============================

 In this first photo, you can see an assortment of fine lines with a slightly pitted hole in the bottom of the blade. This is where all of the metal cutting will now originate. THIS IS TRULY NOT ACCEPTABLE!!                   

 The front area of the blade is too thick and needs to be reshaped further for the many tight setting areas.

  When I selected this specific blade, I did so with the sole purpose of showing what errors there are in shaping this Flat graver.

  For this Flat graver I kept it in this'wine coloured' handle, just for easier identification. This blade is a #41, or otherwuse known as a 'wide graver', I won't change it for any other width in this handle.

 You can see just how thin the front of the graver will be for the tight metal cutting areas.

 I will use this thin blade for when I will cut "Fish Tail" or assisting me in similar delicate  projects.

  What blade would I use? The next sentence would be "length does not matter!" With my "Adjustable, Graver Handle", I can very easily exchange any graver that can be used.

  You can see two sizes of Flat gravers that I will use to set and tighten gemstones in a 21 stone, Cluster Ring. 

 All Flat gravers are created in HSS metal, namely 'High Speed Steel'. This extreme srength & quality will give much endurance to all kinds of setting projects.

 No matter the life-span of the graver, even a well worn graver can still be used in this "Adjustable, Graver Handle", as shown in this and previous photos.

  Here are three gravers that I commonly use with equal dexterity.

 The lower blade is a #39 along with the middle blade being the commonly used #40, and the above blade is a #41. 

This wider blade #41, has certain features that even a wide Onglete graver lacks. There will be times that a wide cutting blade will suite my purposes.