Monday, 2 March 2026

"POLISHING PAPERS" for your gravers => 16 photos


 "Polishing Papers" are the "Creme de la Creme" of your gravers. They are the best kind of process for finishing the process of making a bright finish to any metal cutting blade.


   I keep my polishing papers to a maximum of #1,200 grit. But there is another process where I can double that grit texture without buying any more papers. You can do this yourself.

 As seen in previous tutorial essays, I've explained and shown that by buying a soft-leaded 'Drafting' pencil. I can easily rub the core of the pencil into the pores of the paper.

Here is my actual pencil with the significant writing on the wood.
                                   "PRIMARY #1-309"
 The result is that from a #1200 grit paper, it will become in excess of #1800 grit in just moments. That cost will be just the purchase of your #1200 grit paper. How simple is that?

  With this #1,000 grit/texture paper, I will rub the Onglette blade where the Emery Paper was used. 
 Don't forget that this paper is now equivalent to the #1,500 grit. 

 In polishing the Bead Raiser, I'll again, 'enhance' the texture on both sides of this graver.

  Don't forget to go to your local hardware store and purchase this "Drafting Pencil". It will increase the tactile texture of the metal cutting blade. 

  Keep your "Emery & Polishing Papers" in close proximity to the working area of your bench. They are always needed, no matter what you are doing.


 The 'shiny' area of your paper is where the Pencil Rubbing took place. The soft core of the pencil got embedded into the Polishing Paper.

 I use my 'revised' Onglette #2 to enhance the Bright Cutting to make it shine like a mirror of a telescope.
 All of takes is one polishing paper and a drafting pencil.


 I'm in the process of rubbing the #1,000 grit paper. My graver will rub along the 'embedded' drafting area.
 DON'T TAKE SHORT RUBS. EACH RUBBING SHOULD BE AS LONG AS THE AREA WHERE THE RUBBING TOOK PLACE.

  DON'T HESITATE TO RUB HEAVILY. BE AGGRESSIVE AND HOLD THE PENCIL SECURELY TO THE PAPER.

 Even if your graver is a thin Onglette #1, don't hesitate to resurface the blade.

 Every area of the Onglette blades needs to be highly polished. You are dependent upon the brightness of the new metal cutting.
 If your blade is dull, so will be your metal carving.

 If a section of your polishing paper hasn't been 'touched', don't worry. This way, you will have literally two papers on one.
 
 The polishing paper of even #800 grit could be close to your finer textured papers. Sometimes, a little rough texture on your blade might cause some problems. Get rid of them as soon as possible.


  A polishing paper of #1200 grit or #1800 will give you many days or even weeks of beautiful metal cutting.

                I hope that you learned something new in this essay.

"EMERY PAPERS" for your gravers (must READ & LEARN) => 8 photos

EMERY PAPERS ARE YOUR EXCLUSIVE REPAIRING TOOL.
There is no other tool or method to reclaim the surface of your metal cutting blades.
                             =================================================
 To start the resurfacing process, the first paper will be a 'cleaning' paper. This will remove any deep indentations on the side of the blade.
 This process starts with the basic 'cleaning' paper, which is the #240 grit. This will have a (very rough) coarse texture.
 These numbers being shown here are sequentially smoother as the grit (numbers) get larger. These numbers are the 'beginning and mid-range' of textures.


  No matter the length of the graver, these well-used blades need to be continually repaired. This tutorial essay will be a 'required reading' for you to learn this task.

  I am repairing the RIGHT SIDE of this blade. Please apply AMPLE pressure with the aid of your fingers. The pressure must be administered to the full width of the blade nearest to the working area.
 If the Onglette graver has a pointed area, then the blade must be cleaned directly to that spot.


 For the LEFT SIDE, a similar task of cleaning is required. Don't forget the 'gentle rocking' motion. All areas of the blade should be repaired.


The same technique of cleaning is used now on the #400 grit paper.

 The same technique of  'cleaning' is used on every graver, no matter the shape or length of a blade.


  Here is my inventory of every shape and length of gravers.