How to "Bright-Cut" inside your Princess-Cut, 'Vee-shape' Claws! (#2 series, of 2)

                        This is the 2nd lesson, in a series of 2 essays!

 How do you Bright-Cut any "Vee" shaped claws? There are many answers here for you,

"No Short Cuts" are permitted, anywhere or anytime!

I am supplying additional notes...uses of gravers...and of course, continued maintenance (where necessary).

I've previously commented on the "Gravers and Polishing papers" in this 2-piece topic. But instead of having you keep looking back to the previous pages, it's always good to review them here!  

1) HOW DO YOU SELECT YOUR GRAVERS? Which graver-shape will you choose?

When you are needing to Bright-Cut the inside of the "Vee", there are only two gravers that you really need and that is the Onglette #1 and a FLAT #40 graver. PLEASE...No other graver is needed! ( A "Square-shaped" graver is not needed at all.)

Remember, please don't use a wider (or a thicker) Onglette #2 graver! This graver has no purpose in this topic. An Onglette #1 is to be used only in one spot and that is where the 'two sides of the claws join' together! aka where the two sides meet!

2) HOW DO YOU USE YOUR GRAVER? How do you hold your graver? THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY to hold a graver, the wooden handle MUST REST IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND (as shown). If there is a flat section of the handle, then let THAT FLAT area be resting against your fourth (ring) finger. This 'holding' will act as a guide for the correct angles of the graver face.

3) WHICH GRAVER BLADE WILL YOU USE? You have a choice of two shapes and where should each graver be? Initially, I prefer to use a FLAT graver, these will cut the inside of the

"Vee-shaped" claw. The Onglette graver is not able to cut inside the claw, on such a short distance, only a FLAT graver is able to cut in this short cutting. 

4) WHAT WILL YOUR FINISHED GRAVER-SHAPE LOOK LIKE? When it has been completed in the "Process of Re-Shaping". I really like to see and have a very thin blade of the graver at all times. The "FLAT graver" will only do one thing & that is to cut a "flat surface".

 Here are all of the pieces of necessary information. I suggest copying this information for yourself. After all, what else is this blog used for.

I'm now using this artistic-pencil to show how the paper can be changed. My razor blade is used to keep the pencil as fine & sharp as possible. 

 Here is my pencil information that explains the type of credentials of the required pencil. The core of this pencil should be 'as soft as possible'. No other type of soft pencil is to be used, the paper must not be torn in the rubbing process. (The date shown is when I prepared this photograph).

 This how the type of "rubbed point" appears on the pencil and the paper just to who you how it looks.

"I will practice the rubbing technique" on ordinary paper. Once I feel that the rubbing is suitable, I will then and only then, do my rubbing on the prescribed 'polishing paper'.

I want a widest as possible contact-rubbing, this rubbing will last for months on my delicate paper! I will then remove the 'used' surface. Interesting process isn't it?

Please rub your pencil gently on the paper, and don't DIG into the paper, why? You might just ruin the paper that you've been making in this delicate process.

Remember, you are now in the 'early learning stages of changing your grit' of your polishing-paper. 

BTW, just show me where else is this being shown?..:>)

5) WHERE WILL YOU DO YOUR BRIGHT-CUTTING? (here are the diagrams & photos). I'm now going to show you the exact layout of the "Vee" shaped claws.

6) WHICH 'POLISHING-PAPER' WILL YOU USE & WHEN? Name each paper & when will it be used?

I will use a #800 grit, followed by a #1,000 grit, followed by a #1,200 fine grit polishing paper. The "pencil rubbing" will make the paper much finer in its final texture/grit.

7) WHERE IN THE (CONTACT) CLAW WILL THE GRAVERS DO THE CUTTING? This is so very Very important! The location of the 'cutting' is only where the thick looking metal is located. I only want to make the metal to look thin, in it's overall appearance. 

8) WHEN DO YOU FINALLY FINISH YOUR GRAVER CUTTING ? What is the sole purpose of "Bright-Cutting" your "Piece of Fine & High Quality jewellery"? I want these claws to look fantastic in it's appearance, plus not looking like "thick bumps of metal".

The sole purpose is to make the "Vee" claws appear to be like a figure 'Vee'. This should not appear to look like a "big blob of ugly looking 4-pieces of metal". 

9) HOW DO YOU MAKE THE CLAW-TOPS EQUALY UNIFORM IN WIDTH? I will only use a  Pillar 8"inch, #2 grit & Triangular file, #4 grit file.

10) These are the other style of stones that could be used, as well as the Square stone, Princess. The Triangular stone is not too often used, the Square stone is more common these days.

 The other stone cuts are the Marquise and the Pear-Shape...unfortunately, I don't have any photo's of them in my inventory, at the present time! 

All of these have one thing in common, they all have the 'Vee' shaped claws. In following essays will delve into this topics at a later date.

In another essay coming up shortly, I will show how other stones, all with pointed 'Vee' corners can be easily used! 

 One thing to remember, is with this soft Triangular stone, is that they are very shallow in the Pavillion and have a great tendancy to break or chip at this shallow claw.

 I would be very careful in setting any soft stone. "SOFT" REFERS TO ANY STONE THAT IS LESS THAN "7, ON THE MOHS (Hardness) SCALE".

 The "Flat Graver" can be used in all styles of stones

 I'm using the #1,200 grit polishing paper, actually it was initially a #1,000 grit, but during the 'pencil rubbing process" it is now scaled towards a finer #1,200+ grit. 

The Pencil rubbing actually puts it's pencil-lead into the pores of the paper, therefore making the paper much finer with the grit number.

 Instead of buying large numbers of papers, just buy the minimum quantity, then use your soft-pencil to make up the difference. I do this all the time, you can see the "shiny section" that has been modified greatly.

From buying an estimated 6-8 grit 'kinds of papers', I can easily end up with almost 12, 'paint-stirrer' sticks that I use for my polishing papers.

I, as a setter, I must have a full grit range of papers. On an average, one stick on a well used paper can last for an 'estimated' two years+!

 

Very few Diamond Setters use this fantastic method rthat you are now learning. I was taught this about 45 years ago, it was then I learned all of these subtle techniques.

 In those days there were no books, or a library as what you are now reading in this blog. 

In this photo, you can see how this, or any graver can be transformed to make it from a #1,000 paper, to make it an estimated #1,200 grit paper! 

11) These are the different thicknesses of the FLAT gravers that I could be using on various projects. For this Princess Engagement ring, I prefer a #40 @ 1.13mm's width, as all of these gravers are all "High Speed Steel".

 These gravers last much longer inbetween oil-stone sharpening, therefore HSS are much longer in months of constant use. Some of my gravers are measured in years.

 Don't buy any graver that has not the "HSS" stamping on the graver 'body'. Insist on the best graver and you will have only the best ... just as I do ... all the time!

 For a few dollars more per graver, you will be that much more happier.

Additional: NOTES FOR YOU!

The #N-20 graver is TOO WIDE  @ 1.90 mm's  not acceptable!  

The #N-10 graver is TOO THIN  @ 1.08 mm's   not acceptable!  

   Which graver(s) would I use?  (drum roll)   @ 1.15 mm's & 1.10 mm's.

These 2 FLAT gravers are great and they depend upon the areas that need the cutting in the Vee-claws. No matter which graver I need, I will continue to vasilate between these two widths! 

 If you wish to ask me for extra assistance, you many email me anytime, 24/7.

"Gerrylewy18 (at) gmail.com" I will continue to keep your email address private at all times.