Channel Setting is one of the most delicate setting processes to be learned. Be forewarned that mistakes can easily happen, so why have them start in the first place? You could be setting 5 stones in a row, or a "Eternity Ring" of gemstones all around the ring.
In these 24 photos are some great looking "mistakes and errors" in gemstone setting. These were all done on purpose.
I estimate that this process of setting soft gemstones in a Channel Setting is rated as 8.5 on a "10 scale of Difficulty".
"Spacing of stones" can be YOUR worst enemy when they are in Channel Setting. In these few pictures you can see that there are girdles of stones are 'riding above each other'. There is an uneven aligning of the channel wall due to poor trimming in the finishing processes.
This is a disastrous compilation of setting errors that should be avoided 'HERE and NOW'.
When you are placing your stones in the setting, please avoid that the Culet of the stone not to
be protruding through the bottom of the ring. If not, the customer will cut his (or her) skin and refuse to purchase the ring.
This can be a dangerous error and cause much frustration in fixing this MISTAKE IN STONE SETTING.
The problems in 'spacing' actually starts from the twist drill not being spaced evenly.
The twist drill is not held in a 'vertical position'. Why isn't it? This leads to the important setting holes not being accurately spaced.
Even underneath, you can see the irregular spaces where the stones are to be set. Each little error is magnified many times until the stones must be corrected before the actual setting of the stones.
The top two holes are not evenly spaced. How can this be repaired? I WOULD USE A BUD-SHAPED BUR and gently lean the bur on one side and 'move' the hole until the spacing has been repaired.
If nothing has been done in the 'spacing' problem, then this little oversite just gets magnified exponentially.
When in the "Reciprocating Hammer" process, it is advisable not to let the Hammer Anvil touch the stone. If you are setting a soft stone such as an Amethyst or a Garnet, there will be another problem, BREAKAGE and this could very well be avoided.
The Hammer should 'move the metal over the girdle', not to flatten it.
Before continuing, the setting areas 'must be highly polished' not just buffed up.
I prefer to use my "Inside, Ring clamp" on rings of this nature. The wooden ring clamp gives me much room to work and is very easy in accessibility and weight.
This the photograph of a finished Channel Set ring.
Inside of the hole for the new stone the opening must be prepared, if not problems could arise. Clean out any dust particles before inserting the stone, why now?
If you set the stone 'on any dust particles' and you put your ring into a "Ultra-Sonic" cleaner. The stone will be 100% loose, I've seen this happen many times.
Before you set any stone, make sure that the surrounding areas are free from any scratches. If you must use a Pumice Wheel of #180 grit, then do so NOW. When the stone is set, forget the cleaning processes.
In aiding the stone setting, I ALWAYS use my "156C" (Carbide steel) bur to create a seat for the Girdles of the stone(s).
The girdles of both stones are now 'touching'. You can see the metal covering the stones.
This large space between the stones is not a good idea, nor is it advisable.
In my estimation, the bottom area of the channel should not be seen.
In using my delicate wording, 'spaces are 100% UGLY! Don't attempt to set any stones if it appears that this is going to happen. How would you remedy this problem? I'd place the stone in the opening first.
There is a little gap or a space, now this 100% acceptable. When you are using your Reciprocating Hammer there is a slight vibration and the stones will shatter against the Girdle causing breakage.
The Channel wall must be cleaned, but never using a serrated Triangular #4 grit file, why? What will be remaining is a rough textured surface. I used a Flat, #40 Graver to delicately smooth the inside surface including the 'half round' ends of the Channel trough.
To clean any hammering remaining from the "Reciprocating Hammer-Anvil". I will gladly use a "Snap-On" Emery (rotating) wheel with a "Medium" grit. All of these indentations will get removed.
Next will be a Pumice Wheel of #180 grit, but held at angle with the edge of the rotating wheel not to touch the stone.
NEVER ALLOW ANY CONTACT OF THE PUMICE WHEEL TO TOUCH THE DELICATE SOFT STONES.
The final cleaning will be using "my favourite Pumice Wheel of #1,000 grit". This wheel will give the metal a very high polish without using any large 'cloth polishing wheel'.
In using the cloth wheel, you will then forgo any sharp edges and end up with a rounded surfaces where there shouldn't be any.
