In a regular side-holding clamp, (here it is shown laying down) all you have is side-clamping. But the "inside clamp" literally holds the ring from the inside, there are various plastic inserts being used for your particular size of ring.
Here is a "Mini, Pin-Vice" that is another option for you. These are so-o useful for setting stones as they are used on disks, or flat plates.
5) Which Polishing Papers must you use, When, Where, and (of course) Why?
Answer? In this photograph you have at last count an estimated 19 sticks for sharpening gravers. These sticks have almost every "Emery & Polishing" paper that any Diamond Setter needs, or uses. These days, many of 'us' use polishing wheels, I don't condone any of those methods.
I have here a range of papers for every need to make my gravers sharp to use again.
Here are the ones I need: #240, #400, #600, #800, #1,000, #1,200. But how do I need to have them in the 'in-between' numbers?
Do you see that "Primary; Soft Graphite, Drafting Pencil? When I rub the graphite into the pores of the papers, I'm now making that paper into a more highly polished kind of paper.
For example; the #240 with the rubbing, will then make it nearly #360, good idea? Or how about a #1,200 paper plus the 'rubbing', then this paper will become almost a #1,500 paper. Is this a definite WOW.
You might not find any 'in-between' papers while doing your stone-setting on a weekend.
You can now create your own much needed papers and then not be worried that you can't find those papers that you so definitely need.
Please use any method that you are familiar with. I prefer to use a "Paint Stirrer" stick that I pick up from "Home Hardware" here in Toronto, Canada. I don't buy them, as they give them away, if I needed to use any of their paints. Good promotion!
I keep an extra supply of gravers, why so many? So glad that you asked me. This is because you just never know when you or I need a particular graver that is urgently needed. Then you don't have that one during that important setting job.
I've run into this so many darned times, that I've forgotten how many. I've decided to have many more polishing papers & gravers, this will make a very happy Diamond Setter.
BTW, mostly all of these graver handles are colour coded, as each coloured handle is for a particular purpose. For the "Wine Coloured handle" at the bottom right, is only used for a Flat graver. Nothing else! I call this "Selection of Gravers, by the Colours of the Handle".
The handle with the little "dots" will be used for Pave' setting
6) How to "Select" your NEW Purchased Diamond, and what to look for?
Answer? This is somewhat of a 'convoluted answer', with so many facts. Here I go!
So much research has to be done on what kind of diamond to buy and examine.
What size fits your budget? The closer you get to the 1.00 carat size, the more expensive it can be. Even a .95 point size with a difference of .05 points can mean hundreds of dollars more that will come out of your pocket.
Can you see the difference of 0.05 points (1.00 - .95 points) from a distance of 3-4 feet away? Now be truthful, can you see what I mean??
If you are now putting that same diamond into a 4-prong/claw setting those few points will not make any difference. BUT, if you put the that same stone in a FULL BEZEL there is no way you can see any point in arguing with a .98 point stone to a .93 points. the metal will for sure cover up the difference in size.
Taf Schaefer do you see what I mean? There is so much to think about when deciding the size, the quality, the cut, the symmetry and finally, versus the dollar costs. Your Full Bezel setting covers up so much of the stone. I'd say you are losing about 15% of the size of the stone, just in metal. But what you told me about your client, SAFETY is another point to decide what to buy.
I told you privately my answer and you agreed with me. "Safety & Security, is #1".
Only your pocket-book will see the difference, not your eyes! Can you see what a
VS,2 and an SI,1 can be? How about the colour of E &F, or how about G &H, all of these determine what the final price will be? Think of your pocket, not necessarily your diamond facts. I'd go to the lower grade as your eyes will not see the differences. I'm being so truthful and honest here.
There is another determining factor, It's called "Triple, XXX's" what the blazes are these x's used for? Excellent Cut, Excellent Colour, Excellent Symmetry. All of these will determine how much the diamond will sparkle, (not necessarily the cost). BTW, when you are appraising your stone, the XXX's will give you a better $$ valuation. I only hope that you, Taf and everyone reading this essay on this subject find this so very interesting.
Now lets keep on with this essay, there is still so much more to write....OUCH!
My lady-friend, TAF, again asked me another question; "What about "Diamond Security" for those young ladies who in these days enjoy fast sports". These could be skiing, swimming, jogging, and of course those water-sports. What kind of rings would be great? As I am only a Diamond Setter, I see many times these delicate diamonds coming loose, and G-D forbid, getting lost.
My suggestion is to build a strong ring AROUND THAT EXPENSIVE $10,000 - $15,000.00
DIAMOND. What kind of FRAME, or setting will be best? As TAF Shaefer, told me, that she prefers a "Full Bezel", or a "Tube-Setting" and avoiding the delicate 4-claw setting. In this case, I MUST 100% totally agree with her.
7) How do you brush off any loose metal filings from your gem-setting work?
Answer? I'd use anything; toothbrushes, "soft, make-up brushes", paint brushes (third from the left). Just as long as these work. But PLEASE don't use anything that is too coarse. You must always experiment for yourself, with which "soft brush" is best for you? Your cleaning brush SHOULD DO ONLY ONE THING and that is to gently remove those metal particles.
The remaining brushes that are seen in this essay are "good, to great". The brushes on the "far-right" and the "far-left" are like steel brushes, they are just too hard on your delicate pieces of jewellery. The toothbrushes that YOU, or I use, are the BEST for 'us' to use. They are cheap as I will give them three thumbs up!
The 3/4" inch in width, "Paintbrush", that is the third from the left, IS my favourite. You can just barely see that it is slightly worn down by its constant use from cleaning my jewellery. It's fantastic on diamond-set pieces of jewellery with diamonds. IT CLEANS, (AND) IT DOESN'T LOOSEN ANY OF MY DIAMONDS. After all, isn't that what we are looking for?
That large "Make-Up" brush (second from the far right) is too large and it doesn't clean those little diamond setting spots. Again, sticking to these toothbrushes is my "WINNER" in my 'cleaning tools'.
Where can you buy these additional brushes? Don't laugh, try going to your "drugstore", local "Dollar Store", even your local "hardware store". This is where I do my "additional, jewellery tool shopping".
I avoid those jewellery buying stores, I can't divulge those names because it isn't ethical.
I just inserted an 'Old-Time' men's shaving brush, but this brush is basically used for cleaning off the dust in my working areas & bench. This wasn't meant for touching up the dirt on the jewellery tips, the size of it is humongous and not meant for delicate cleaning.
8) How to Put Gold around a Diamond? An "Orchid-Ganoksin" lady-friend wanted me to help her, and this was her question. I answered it in a previously written answer. I'll do my very best in helping her.
Answer? I would use a basic "C.A.D." method, or a "Computer Aided Designing".
In using this technique, you can create just about any design you wish to create.
9) Which "Pumice Wheel" should you be using? When, Where, Grit & Why?
Answer?
The preferential grit for these basic Pumice wheels are a #180 grit just nothing else is required. The highest polishing grit for the actual cleaning that is used AFTER the #180 grit, is #1,000 grit. The colour of these "highest grit" wheel is of a PINK colour.
There is a #240 grit, I never use this grit, why so? I have enough with these two grades, I don't need any more to mess with, I'd say that this is purely "over-kill".
BUT, what is the colour of the #180? It is a dark blue colour as in this grade of colour. This other blue is this lighter colour. This lighter blue just never cuts to my liking, I never use the lighter range of colour. Colourings don't make the difference, but it helps in the task of buying wheels.
It's the "colour" that makes buying an easier task that differentiates one grade to the other. The darker blue is a more aggressive pumice wheel, BUT why? It cuts sufficiently to remove mostly all of the 'cuts & grooves' from any file in my "SNAP-ON, Emery Wheel" as shown in my lower photograph.
These "darker colours" are shown below in these group of wheels. I'm trying to do the best in explaining the differences of grades as the best as I can, in this essay.
These PINK WHEELS of the #1,000 GRIT, ever so "lightly polish & smooth" the metal surface, at the same time. It's when there are so many delicate areas to polish, these wheels assist the jeweller ever so greatly. The very large cloth wheels can permanently damage the patterns in a moments notice. A "Split Lap" is great, but it just can't get into those "Minute, Grooves & Crevices". ONLY YOUR PUMICE WHEEL OF YOUR OWN CHOOSING, WILL HELP YOU.
All of these wheels come in a "Tapered" & "Flat" edge surface. These (again) are shown in this photograph. When the wheel is worn down, DON'T THROW THEM AWAY, YOU CAN USE THEM TO REMOVE ANY MARKS remaining from INSIDE the casting process. Is this a great idea for those small, 'often-used' pumice wheels?
10) What Sizes of "Shellac-Sticks" are used & needed? When, Where (and let's not forget the very important) Why! Now leaving one more question unanswered! How are they made? (this will be a very careful process and we are needing very much care).
These odd-shaped wooden disks can be used for any weird looking items, just as bracelets, or anything that can be used. Then you put that "wooden thing", into your ring clamp. Everything works, just experiment as often as you can. This is the 'buying state' of your new shellac. All you need to do is to heat it up with your "Bernzomatic" mini-flame, let it melt unto your wooden disk. BUT YOU MUST AS WELL HEAT this shellac and let it find it's own shape under or around the item that you are going to use.
This will "Be As A Base" for your item to hold. Then when you are setting your stones, this will give you a good supporting-base for anything that is hollow.
I have another item that I constantly use, it's a pin-vice that is adjustable to any width. I like this just for one reason, it can be hand-held against your bench-pin. Then it's not tied down inside your bench tray.
This is my favourite little bauble, this is my "Guinness World Record" (duplicate), you can see just how it sits against this clamp. There is no need for any (messy) shellac, then after the Diamond Setting process is finished, it remained clean as the moment it was placed upon the hand-held "mini, pin-vice".
11) Why use the popular "Dremel" burs & tools? These well known selection of mini-burs are another source of "jewellery manufacturing" burs. These have a wide assortment of items that many jewellers will find to be a real prize, when needed at a moments notice.
I used many of these pieces myself & they were real life-savers and I don't always buy the most expensive. BUT I will buy what will be the 'most useful', the 'buying source' will not always fit my criteria.
Where are they found? I went to my ultra-large & major hardware store and there they were. Also in this store was an "Bernzomatic" that is used to heat up my flake-shellac for my sticks. Both items are now being shown in this photograph.
This list of "Essential Setting Burs &Tools" is growing exponential with the tools we all need. On an average diamond setting bench, there could have (without guessing), an estimate of thousands of dollars in tools and burs of all descriptions.
Here is my partial arrangement of "High Speed Steel" (aka H.S.S.) burs and other cleaning utensils. These burs are named that the steel is created as a "High Tungsten Steel", not necessary meaning that these should be run at a high rotating speed. 😖
Here is an close view of the "HSS" burs, you can notice just how clean they are, why? These are so darned expensive, I wouldn't want any of them to get rusty and not be working well. When a Diamond Setter is working with any of these, they must always be in 'pristine condition' and in perfect working order. I take all of the opportunities in keeping them well-oiled.
Here are a few more collections of my bur & cleaning-utensils. I still have a few more
'bur-pads' still hiding from your view. I have a total of 9 'Bur-Pads' (similar to these in my inventory).
Now you have a general idea of how many hundreds of dollars, an average Diamond Setter may have in their bur & setting tool inventory.
What you are looking in this 'bur essay' could very well be over $1,000.00 or more!
But thankfully, these burs CAN last many months, it's because I KEEP THEM VERY WELL LUBRICATED, and so should YOU.
There are some burs that can cost me $75.00 for a packet of 5 burs. These 8mm. ROUND burs, on the second row from the top, are the most "Expensive 5 burs" in my inventory. (But there is a long story about them, I'm not going to write about them).
This is another collection of my "Dremel' cleaning-type of burs. When a Diamond Setter is finishing his/her gem-setting, the next step is to clean, where these burs come from, is of no consequence to that person, "just as long as the job gets done", do YOU agree with me?
