A client asked me if I would set his Genuine Emerald, Pear-shaped stone? He asked 3 other setters, and all of them declined. He also requested that I completely recut the Diamond Pave sections that were a part of the necklace. I accepted his offer, as I always had my camera in my bench, I captured the gemstone being in production.
This stone weighed 5.13 carats and had a wholesale cost of approximately $12,500.00 CDN. The Mohs Scale was 7.5 - 8.0.
The necklace chain section was separated from the Emerald Bezel frame. I preferred not to have the long necklace chain interfere with my fingers, bench peg and shellac stick.
To have an expensive Emerald in my possesion and go through the gemsetting process was very challenging.
IMPORTANT SETTING FACTS FOR YOU!
1) I decided to "Bright-Cut" the inside of the Bezel as I am Diamond Setter, (not just a stone setter in the jewellery trade).
2) I thinned the thick bezel as I preferred to "gently move the metal" against & over the Girdle and Girdle Facets.
3) I was constantly aware of the Pavilion Facet edges touching the inside of the bezel frame. What did I do?
4) I decided to examine just where these 'contact spots' would be. I used a felt pen and inked the stone Pavilion and the underneath inking marked the bezel and showed me just where these spots would be. (Good idea, eh?)
5) I decided to use #2 & #3 bud burs to make grooves into the bezel frame where the facets would touch the metal. (This simple action prevented any chance of damaging the Pavilion Facet edges.)
This lead me to confirm that this expensive stone would endure the TENDER gemsetting processes without breaking.
MORE DETAILED TECHNIQUES
6) To prepare the bezel 'moving process', I trimmed at a 45 degree angle to the top of the frame. I (very gently) pressed the metal over the girdle of this delicate soft stone. This is where many setters would be very worried in case of breakage, the stone is ultra-soft.
7) When the metal is pressed on to the Crown Facets, I'd use my Flat edge, Pumice Wheels of #180 Grit, to smooth the surface, evenly. (AS SHOWN)
8) At this point, I'd now use my highly polished Onglet graver #2 to literally remove away any rough metal around the inner bezel wall.
9) I removed the front point of the graver to prevent any scratches caused by the 'sharp blade'. This is not a casual cutting process as I was very careful not to touch the stone.
10) To remove the pendant from the shellac, I warmed the bezel and let the heat radiate around the frame. I just let the whole (cooled) pendant lay in "Methyl Hydrate"alcohol for as long as needed to remove any remnants of shellac.
THIS WHOLE PROCESS TOOK ME 3 HOURS!
