I know that many of these photos have been seen in previous tutorial essays. But there is nothing wrong with repeating a few of them again.
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Why are there two screws in this one handle? The answer is very simple: if your "locking screws" on the handle get worn from continual tightening, the other "locking screw" will take over in the tightening process.
This is called a "Thumb Guard" because it protects the thumb from being cut by the underside of the graver blade. Trust me, this sharp edge underneath can cause damage to the skin.
This type of stone setting is aptly named "2-Bead Setting". In this version of gem-setting, this is a delicate process of setting stones. I use two varieties of blades, "Flat" and an "Onglet" shaped blade.
In this version of Pave Setting, I will specifically use only the Onglet-shaped blade. The reason is that I need to Bright-Cut on curves around the stones. Flat gravers cannot give me the curvature that is needed.
The LINE OF CUTTING MUST BE EXACTLY AT THE EDGE OF THE 'SETTING HOLE'.
The graver must cut into the metal numerous times to have a good preparation for the Bright Cutting.
Here is another technique, but using "3-Beads" for stone setting. You can see many areas where to use the "Flat" graver.
This photo shows a "4-Bead" technique, but using both the Onglette and Flat gravers to cut these intricate patterns.
A highly polished Onglette is the required blade for "Right-Sided" metal cutting. Tool suppliers don't sell them in this high finish; the setter (you) must do the modification.
In this blog, I will demonstrate how this technique is prepared.
In using a Flat graver, high quality is required in the preparation of the blade. If there is an error in the preparation of the flat graver tip, the end result will be poor in the 'metal cutting department'.
Only a thin Onglette graver #0, or a graver #1 can get inside close-knit areas. I can now easily cut lines in the metal with little effort.
A Flat graver easily cuts along the surface of the metal. No Onglette graver is able to cut in this fashion.
No matter how old the graver is, just as long as it fits into your 'adjustable graver handle', it will be good to use.
As I mentioned, I'm using a Flat graver number #40 and nothing wider.
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This is my chosen Flat graver; the number "N-12" refers to number #40 in our North American series of blades.
Here is an example of a very bright "Bright Cutting" process. There is a mirror-like reflection done with a Flat Graver with a #40 width. You could also use an Onglette graver that is highly polished on the right side (if you are right-handed).
Flat gravers are not good on curves, and only an Onglette graver will succeed in working on these patterns.
ALWAYS EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENTLY SHAPED GRAVERS. DON'T LIMIT YOURSELF TO JUST THE BASIC GRAVER SHAPES.
ALWAYS EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENTLY SHAPED GRAVERS. DON'T LIMIT YOURSELF TO JUST THE BASIC GRAVER SHAPES.
Explore other blades with the help of your tool supplier; they are there to help & guide you. I did this when I was learning my profession 65 years ago!















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