Diamond Setting & Metal Cutting. #1, of 2 examples => 7 photos

 During my 9-year apprenticeship, I was fortunate to use my gravers extensively. This got to a point where I was one of 6 setters in the company who enjoyed this metal-cutting process. The remaining 5 setters just couldn't get the techniques down correctly.

 As this was long before CAD (computer-aided design) came along, we had to cut the intricate patterns one ring at a time. Although it was tiring, I managed to excel in this craft. This was ONLY 66 YEARS AGO.

 Here are the exact shapes and patterns as they were made for this company. ENJOY, eh!

This official I.D. photo is #404.

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  I drilled a hole into the silver, as silver is quite soft for this intricate metal cutting.

 I used my #2, shaped Onglet graver to cut a 'V' shape, leaving two metal pegs. These two 'pegs' will eventually be future beads that will be moved over the gemstone.

 These 'V' cuttings must be dug DEEP into the metal. Please, there are no shallow cuttings. Where at the edges of the 'V' there should be two cuts (as shown here). These deep cuts are very important for the ongoing pattern that's now being created.

 When you've started to cut the initial outline, cut again with your graver. Each subsequent cut with this blade, must be almost held vertical. By this, I mean DON'T LEAN THE GRAVER  ON AN ANGLE.

 Repeat your metal cutting until this (photo) shape has now appeared.

 With your same Onglet graver #2, a secondary line should be cut carefully cut to create a line. 

Start your cutting without 'slipping' along the metal. This is not easy, as much care should be taken.

 Start your line cutting from the middle of the line and STOP right at the corner. This action will give you exactly a clean 'pattern' cut.

 REPEAT THESE LINES OF CUTTING DEEP. We need a deep line just to make access for the Flat graver cutting that will NOW start.

 Initiate the first Flat Graver cut at the BASE OF THE "V" and finish at the middle of the pattern. On a Scale of 10 for Difficulty, this is a definite 10. 

 I'm using a #40 width Flat graver for any of my metal cuttings. As you can see, my Flat graver cuttings start where the beads are located. From the point, I'll extend my graver cut DEEP and NOT ALLOWING THE GRAVER TO LEAN ON ONE SIDE.

   After many weeks of your practising,  you will succeed in creating patterns like these.