What is 'Metal Finishing'? => 6 photos

  This interesting essay has nothing to do with stone setting. On the contrary, it touches on the finishing aspect of stone setting. 

 Once that the stone has been placed inside the "flush" setting, then the 'work' starts.

 The inside of the metal rim now needs to be cleaned without any 'faceting'.

The 'faceting' is caused by the edge of the FLAT GRAVER skimming along the edge of the stone facets.

Here is another photo of the inside bezel being cleaned.

 In this last of the metal cutting, you can now see how smooth the rim is starting to look. 

 I purposely left a piece of metal around the bezel rim. The cutting must look very smooth and shiny.

  The cleaning is the next process, the Pumice wheel edge should remain flat at all times. This flat Pumice wheel edge must adhere to the shape of the curved surface. 

 The texture of this wheel is #180 grit.

 The FINAL Pumice Wheel is of #1,000 grit. This will save much labour and avoiding extensive cloth-wheel polishing.

 Here is another metal cutting design and having a smooth curved surface.

 

Names of Gem-Stone 'FACETS' => 5 photos *

 These names are not used just for this blog, but are official names for the industry and are authenticated by "GIA".

 All of the facets are shaped to allow the 'light' bounce back to the viewer.

 

Two-Bead setting - => 7 photos

 This wedding ring was extremely popular circa 1965 A.D. as in those earlier years, I was given the chance of perfecting my Diamond Setting skill.

 The popular use of an Onglete graver is shown in this essay. THERE ARE NO 'SHORT CUTS' IN THIS DESIGN.

 I would only use an Onglette #1 graver to 'cut and remove' any metal around the new beads.

 For the cuts on the sides, these will be essential in creating the desired 4 angled cuts. Don't be too concerned right now with the 'rough cutting'.

 

  Onglette cutting is so extrememly essential in the 'preliminary cuts', I can't over-emphasize this initial process.

 With the Onglette graver #1, cut an outline around the initial pattern (as shown).

 Cut DEEP with your Onglette graver. The sides of your graver will nicely join all of the 'ends of the patterns'.

  With a FLAT graver #40 (width) carefully join all of the four sides together. Keep the side angles to end up with a 40degree angle on all of the cuts.

 This particular cutting takes much 'experience and determination'. The cutting is very important for all of the sides of the graver.

 Recut all of the lines with an Onglette #2 graver that has a smooth cutting edge. Be careful not to break off the two beads, 

  Do not set the gemstone until all of the sides of the pattern have been "Bright-Cut".