This upper diagram gives you a good opportunity to see where the stone should seat. The lower diagram shows the incorrect position of the stone.
The straight-sided bur is not conducive to a good setting position. But now compare the straight-edge to the lower diagram showing a seat for the Crown and Pavillion Facets. This stone-setting bur is a "High Speed Steel" bur which is fantastic just for this setting.
In this diagram showing 5 positions of the drill and anvils, you can see how the metal is being 'moved gently' over girdle of the stone. I personally want to avoid the #2 & #3 methods, as there is too much effort in setting the stone.
Once that the metal has be lowered securely over the Girdle of the stone, what comes next? The answer is quite simple, I'd use my Onglette graver and cut inside the bezel...(as shown)!
What I did with this Oval stone, will be the same as what I will do to Tube Setting.
You will instantly notice that the angles of the stone must be exactly the same to the ring.
This simple diagram displays what a crooked stone actually looks like. The base of the Cabochon stone has being set incorrectly.
The Bezel top shouldn't be too thick or too flat. The top of the wall should blend in with the curvature of the stone. This is a descretionary action based upon your ongoing experience.
My hammer-head was weighed in at 85.0 grams. The Bezel wall must be in complete contact with the stone!!!
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