Diagrams & Pictures of "Gemstone Setting" => 17 photos.

This upper diagram gives you a good opportunity to see where the stone should seat. The lower diagram shows the incorrect position of the stone.

 The straight-sided bur is not conducive to a good setting position. But now compare the straight-edge to the lower diagram showing a seat for the Crown and Pavillion Facets. This stone-setting bur is a "High Speed Steel" bur which is fantastic just for this setting.

 In this diagram showing 5 positions of the drill and anvils, you can see how the metal is being 'moved gently' over girdle of the stone. I personally want to avoid the #2 & #3 methods, as there is too much effort in setting the stone.

Once that the metal has be lowered securely over the Girdle of the stone, what comes next? The answer is quite simple, I'd use my Onglette graver and cut inside the bezel...(as shown)!

 

What I did with this Oval stone, will be the same as what I will do to Tube Setting.

 You will instantly notice that the angles of the stone must be exactly the same to the ring.

                                       

  This simple diagram displays what a crooked stone actually looks like. The base of the Cabochon stone has being set incorrectly.

 The sides of the Bezel has too much metal covering the stone. It is advisable to lower the Bezel wall to the "Table Facet".

 The Bezel top shouldn't be too thick or too flat. The top of the wall should blend in with the curvature of the stone. This is a descretionary action based upon your ongoing experience.

                                                 

 Do not leave the tops of the walls of the Bezel FLAT.

 My hammer-head was weighed in at 85.0 grams. The Bezel wall must be in complete contact with the stone!!!

  Do not leave the inner wall of the Bezel 'untouched'. It must be Bright-Cut with your Onglette graver #2.

 Use your Pumice Wheel of #180 grit to smooth any hammer-hitting-indentations. The outside Bezel wall should be at least a 45degree angle.

 ALWAYS KEEP YOUR HAMMER-ANVIL LEANING AT 45 DEGREES. Avoid any contact with the delicate gemstone.

 Keep the Culet of the stone from touching the mandrel. Always have a groove in your mandrel.

In this diagram, you can see where there was my Bright-Cutting the inner-bezel wall and I trimmed the Bezel further.

  In this final photo, I chose to use a #1,000 grit FLAT-EDGE Pumice wheel. This decision avoided any cloth-wheel, hard buffing leading to a poor ring finish.

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