Friday, 26 June 2026

Which stones would be set FIRST, HOW & WHY?

 I haven't seen this ring in person, but my experience has taught me what I would do if I had to set these stones.
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 Which Channel-Set stones would you set first? Before you answer this question, think of the problems you might encounter & what "COULD HAPPEN".
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 1) I would layout the stones in a sequential order and place them on a wax plate. 
 2) Knowing that there are multiple rows of diamonds in different sections of this ring, much care is needed.  
3) The FIRST stones are the ones beside the FULL BEZEL setting.
4) Prepare the Bezel setting, but not the actual setting...yet!
5) Select your #156C (bearing cutter) bur & carve a seat for all the stones. Every one of these 'smallest stones' MUST BE SITTING AROUND THE BEZEL.
6) It is very important that the 'first small stones' are literally "against & touching" the Bezel wall.
7) All of the stones be NOW set & tightened in the Channels.
8) There must be NO SPACES in between any of the stones.
9) Set and secure the Centre stone into the Bezel.
10) Gently tighten all of stones with your 'Reciprocating Hammer'.
11) Use Pumice Wheels: #180 & #1,000 to smooth the metal.
12) Gently,'Tripoly & Rouge' the whole ring.
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     What "COULD HAPPEN" if you use short-cuts?
A) You might have different sizes of stones mixed in the Channels.
B) Some of the 'small stones' could be not sitting against the Bezel.
C) There COULD be spaces in between some of those stones.
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All of these '15 setting notes' were compiled by just looking at this one photo. Can you imagine if I had 2 photos?...:>)

Monday, 22 June 2026

What size of bur to set a "THICK Girdle" stone? => 10 photos.


 What is the best claw setting for a thick-girdle stone? As an experienced Diamond Setter, I primarily look for security of the stone being set. 

 In this essay, I will give you 'my choices' of the head and what claw shapes to avoid and why?


 For a wide-Girdle, there are many limitations in selecting a stone with those dimensions.

                                  Claw settings to avoid:
 'Decorative' and 'Trellis', why? These claws are so very thin and security could be a problem.

 Below is one of the 'best shaped' claws for a thick-girdle gemstone, why? The 'multi-claw' head still gives you the 'decorative' design, but the claws give you the opportunity in utilizing a thicker stone.


 Try to avoid a thin claw pattern, as security is lacking and the tendancy for a claw to move is quite possible.
 If you need a double or triple claw pattern, I'd stay with them.

 I designed this page with text & photos to demonstrate the setting of various claw configerations.



  I drew this (above) page many years ago, I had no idea that it would be used extensively in this particular essay.
 This enlarged diagram explains how a THICK girdle is prepared for setting.


 What size of bud bur is the best size? My answer will be that the thick girdle will sit easily in the claw, as shown.
 Remember; DON'T USE A ROUND BUR. Only use a tapered (Flame-Tip) bud bur and lay it on it's side and CUT ACROSS the WIDTH of the claw.
  How far down from the tip should this carving be? The 'bearing' groove should be no deeper than 1/3rd of height of the claw (as shown here).

 Lastly, => the diameter of the Bud Bur MUST be equal to the thickness of the Girdle.