Hammering Flush and Bezel settings => 8 photos

 In using a hammer on the hammer anvil, is is always necessary to tap in 4 (four) corner spots to hold the stone tight. THEN =>

 When this is completed, work the 'hammer-anvil touching' around the remainder of the curved bezel. 

 Where there is a shallow recess of the ring bezel, keep the stone as low as possible.

 You can see the flat areas on the RED stone, this is why you must ignore the overall depth on the ring. ALWAYS aim for the 'side' areas of the long ring.

 You can now see the (gentle) flat surfaces appearing on the ring.

 PLEASE, don't let the hammer tip touch the girdle of ANY stone.

 

  Always maintain the required '4 spots' for each new stone in it's setting hole.

 Here in this repeated photo is where the hammer is starting to hit the first of four spots that will tighten a major stone.

 Always be mindful of where the hammer-face is hitting the bezel wall.

 

  It is good to rest your ring on a solid base for hammering. Wooden ring clamp is nice, but it absorbs all of the 'hiting action'.

 On a more solid base such as a ring mandrel, is the most reliable holding tool to use. 

 If there is a culet of the stone protruding underneath (as shown) place that stone where the mandrel-curve is located.

 Have we covered all of the necessary techniques of Flush and Bezel setting? I truly think so. Gerry Lewy!