Observations of an "End Bezel" ring. (5 photos)

 This style of setting is not for the 'ultra-beginner'.

This is a 9.5 out of 10 on the Difficulty Scale. The chances of breakage are very good, to say the least.

 I measured the length of the Princess-cut, Square shaped stone and used a round bur to signify just where the corners of the stone will be in relationship to the End-Bezel.

You will notice that I've lowered the 2 holes half-way down into the Bezel ring. I want the top area to be where the metal will fold over the girdle of the soft stone.

 I will now cut lines into the metal from 'one hole to the other'. This is where the girdle of the stone will be situated.

 Once that he crosscut from one hole to the other, I suggest that a Reciprocating Hamer should be used to mold over the metal and over the Girdle of the stone.

 As this is so very delicate, please turn down the hitting pressure to a "LOW" level. The breakage is 'off the scale' at 15, out of 10. 

 Make sure that the Culet of the stone is not in anyway touching the underneath metal. I'd use my finger tip to absorb the vibration & pressure of the hitting.

 I could rewrite the complete tutorial essay on how this Emerald was set. But suffice to say my client was happy that it got set without any problems.

 My planning and executing in setting of this stone put my difficulty at excess of "30, on the scale of 10". If you search in my blog on how this pendant got set is worthwhile to read. YES,  I used my Reciprocating Hammer in the setting of this 5.25 carat Emerald.

 I've had numerous handpieces and this electric hammer is just a setters 'dream machine'. I never put my Rheostat-handle into the "X" level seen on it's faceplate. I want my handpiece to be just as delicate as possible in it's use.

 There is no need to have a heavy cord tied from the pole sitting on my bench, the electric fan is even located in the handle.

 In this closing photo, you can just see the little gap where the Culet is just sitting above the metal. Prior to the final setting, I'd use my Reciprocating Hammer and mold over the metal, but first, file the two end bezel walls at a 45 degree angle. (Unfortunately, I don't have any extra photos of this setting)

  As stated, this essay were just my observations and these are just as important as the 'how to', agree?