Claw Setting diagrams #1 => 7 diagrams

 These 5 essays are extremely important to anyone who is involved in stone setting. With each of the following diagrams, there will be a few sentences of advice.

 As I explained, some diagrams may not be in sequential order. When I was learning my profession 65 years ago, I wished I had these drawings way back then.

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When the delicate setting has been completed, there will be filing marks remaining on the surface. It is best to remove them with a pumice wheel of #800 or #1,000 grit.

 The design of the wheel should be FLAT. 

 When you are starting to set a square-shaped (Princess) stone, it is best to use a bud-shaped bur, but NEVER A ROUND BUR. Aim the point of the bur towards the inside corner of the V-shaped claw.

 When you are starting to set a Bezel on an Oval stone, there is a sequence of hitting the bezel frame. Just follow the numbers, and you will never have a crooked stone.

 When the hammering on the Flush-mounted stone is finally finished. The next important step is to Bright-Cut the setting with your graver. 

 Some setters don't use any tool for this. I was taught to use an Onglette blade as this will leave a bright & shiny rim above the Girdle.

 To remove all of the hammer-hitting marks, it is important not to use any file. My only suggestion is to use an "Emery" Snap-On wheel of "Medium" grit for this process.

 There must be NO SPACES where the girdle of the stone meets the Bezel wall. Plus, the Pavilion should join the Bezel. The sharp outside edge of the bezel should be gently filed away.

  At the beginning of the preparation of the seat of a Flush or Gypsy setting. The seat must be of equal depth all around the inner wall (as shown). If not, then the stone will 'continually appear crooked'.