Monday, 16 March 2026

Gypsy (Flush) setting & multi-claw setting #2 => 8diagrams.


 This essay explains how "Flush Setting & multi-claws" are prepared.
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 Remove any extra metal from an equal layer around the stone. But leaving enough metal for final polishing.

 The Culet of the stone must NEVER PROTRUDE THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE RING.
 
 NEVER HAMMER AT THE EDGE OF THE RIM OF METAL. As the diagram shows, hammer-hit (as shown) away from the outer edge.

 Never push the stone into the new bearing (seat), just GENTLY slide the stone in one side, and then the opposing edge. I do this procedure all the time and avoid all kinds of setting problems.

 What happens if the stone protrudes through the bottom? The wearer will immediately feel the sharp point of the stone.
 ALWAYS MEASURE THE THICKNESS OF THE RING TO THE STONE. This will prevent any problems before the setting.

  I always use or raise little mini-claws just below the tip of each claw. This 'little hook' will hold each stone very tightly in the setting.
 Furthermore, the 'hooks' will blend in with the metal and won't ever be seen.

 To install these 'hooks', I suggest using a 'Flat graver' against the inner claw. The chances of losing a stone are almost impossible.

 I still use this rule to estimate the depth of setting any stone of any size. I suggest getting used to this habit as it will save you many setting problems.
 The top of the bur must be lower than the surface of the metal.


 

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