4-Claw, Bright-Cutting & other preparations #3 =>10 diagrams

 This third essay covers the many aspects of the stone setting principles.  

=>There are 2 MORE TUTORIAL ESSAYS STILL TO BE EDITED. <=

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The Pavilion of the stone MUST ALWAYS MATCH THE ANGLE OF THE SEAT IN THE CLAW. (There are no shortcuts permitted.) 

 Where the 'up and down cutting' also creates an angle for the Crown Facets of the new stone to sit.

 The 'reflection of light' is nicely explained in this diagram, along with which cutting blade produces each reflected light source.

 After the hammering over the Flush setting, comes the cleaning of the hammer hits. Initially, a #180 grit Pumice wheel will suffice. Every hammer mark MUST BE CLEANED UP.

   Every bead must be 'against and over' the Girdle of each stone.

  Around every Gypsy setting must be cleaned and made beautiful by Bright-Cutting around each of the stone settings.

 

 This diagram is not great, but it explains that every mark from hammering MUST BE REPAIRED.

 When the hammering is initiated, it is imperative that the Bezel Wall comes down directly upon the stone. 

 You will notice that the inner seat of the setting has no spaces around the Girdle of the stone. The stone sits completely against the metal frame.

 I wanted to REPEAT the hammering cycle on the Oval bezel.

                              

                                  Square stone setting in a V-claw setting.

  All 4 'V' claws MUST BE THE SAME size & thickness. 

 The 4 'V' claws must sit against the square stone on the 8 sides. NO SHORTCUTS.