High Speed Steel (HSS) drilling #4 =>12 diagrams

 In this tutorial essay, I prefer to cover as many areas of stone setting as possible.

 YES, I've repeated many diagrams as they are that important, and I didn't want to erase them from this blog.

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 I've been using 'pumice wheels' extensively in my creative diamond setting programs, being shown to you. They come in only two shapes, Tapered and now Flat.

 Here is where the FLAT shape will come in handy. When all of the filing and using an Emery disk are finished, the FLAT shape will now remove ALL OF THE MINUTE CUTS THAT WERE MADE. But please, for your safety, USE A SLOW ROTATING SPEED.

 In this diagram, you can use this as a guide for determining where the bur must be used. Where the teeth of the bur end will be EXACTLY WHERE THE STONE WILL EVENTUALLY SIT.

 In my previous essays, the rotating HSS (High Speed Steel) bur will eject a long sliver of metal on one of the four claws of the setting. 

You have two options here: I use a Flat graver #40 width to cut away the metal. DON'T USE A FILE, as this will leave more striations on that one side.

  This diagram is self-explanatory in the setting of little stones.

  This is another diagram that doesn't need any further explanation.

 Tightening a square (Princess-Cut stone) is a 'delicate (scary) stone tightening procedure'. If you tighten this shape at the corners, you should immediately look for a diamond polisher, as the stone will chip at the corners.

 I always told my students (and you) that from 4 'V' claws, you now have '8 places' to bend over the 4 corners. No shortcuts here!

 After you use an oilstone to sharpen your Flat graver, there will be minute pieces of metal lying at the point of the graver underneath that front end.

 This cannot be left untouched, but can be removed with your Polishing Paper of #800 grit.

 The location of your 'bur cutting' will determine exactly where your stone will sit. Please be accurate.

 When you are setting a stone in a 'Flush Setting', please be wary of the location of the Culet Facet. If it protrudes through the bottom, the metal is too thin. Plan for another smaller stone.

 

  NEVER PUSH YOUR STONE INTO THE METAL. Always slide it in on an angle, as shown.

 

  This is my separating disk. Here are the exact dimensions when ordering another group of them. 

   Here are my important "Rule of Thirds".

 1) One-third below the claw top.

2) One-third from the edge of the bearing to the claw.

3 (Lastly, one-third of the stone is the width of the metal. This will give you the exact proportions of the depth of the stone.

 The thickness, width and height of the metal over the Girdle Facet will give the wearer many years of pleasure.